Forum Discussion

GoHorns's avatar
GoHorns
Explorer
Feb 19, 2017

Do I have enough goat?... I mean Ram......

As a preamble: I have a Ram 1500 with the 5.7 Hemi. I have the automatic 8 speed tranny... long story short... I'm rated at 8,150 towing, and 1,650 payload. It is what it is, and such shall it be... at least for a couple of years. (I might add that I'm very happy with the truck)

I am looking at a new trailer (Sonoma 240 RKS if your curious).

The trailer specs say 673 tongue weight, 5,976 empty, 7,673 max loaded.

So... using old-school East Texas mathematics (I had to kick a shoe off).... If you figure 400 pounds for me and my wife (that's mostly me btw ;-) add 100 pounds for the hitch itself, and throw in 673 for the stated tongue weight... I should still have 477 pounds of capacity.

Then... in regards to the trailer: If it is at max loaded weight... I'd still have about that much capacity as far as towing...

Am I missing something?

Also, I'm currently running P275/60R20 tires... Should I strongly consider going to LT?

I also welcome hitch recommendations, as well as brake controller.

We really like the trailer... we're downsizing after three Power Strokes, and two fifth wheels... We might consider a 3/4 ton in a few years... but no sooner... So... I want to avoid burying myself just to prove my skills with a shovel.... so I am seeking the wise counsel of my forum friends...

Thanks,
Tow Vehicles

30 Replies

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  • Ron3rd's avatar
    Ron3rd
    Explorer III
    Feb 20, 2017
    I see no problem with that setup; I pulled more than that with my old Tundra and your Ram is a bit more capable.
  • rexlion's avatar
    rexlion
    Explorer
    Feb 19, 2017
    camp-n-family wrote:
    You should be ok but what you are missing is actual trailer weights. Brochure weights are dry and can be misleading. They usually don't include options, propane, batteries, etc. Dry weights can be several hundred pounds higher and a lot of that is on the tongue. Look for a yellow sticker on the actual trailer which will show its weight as it left the factory. Once loaded I would guess you would be around 7k with a tongue weight pushing 900lbs.

    +1 on these numbers. And watch out if the TT has a front-located fresh water tank; when filled it can add way more to your hitch weight. I would go with LT tires, maybe a bit lower profile too, for reduced flex in the sidewalls and thus better handling (the flex can let your tires squirm under a sideways force).
  • naturist's avatar
    naturist
    Nomad
    Feb 19, 2017
    Don't forget, your truck's payload also has to include a full tank of fuel, as that is never considered part of the "dry weight." Obviously it changes between fill up and running on fumes. So multiply the fuel tank capacity in gallons, multiply by 7.4 to get the weight, and add that to the cargo you'll be carrying.

    On the face of it, it looks doable to me.
  • camp-n-family's avatar
    camp-n-family
    Explorer
    Feb 19, 2017
    You should be ok but what you are missing is actual trailer weights. Brochure weights are dry and can be misleading. They usually don't include options, propane, batteries, etc. Dry weights can be several hundred pounds higher and a lot of that is on the tongue. Look for a yellow sticker on the actual trailer which will show its weight as it left the factory. Once loaded I would guess you would be around 7k with a tongue weight pushing 900lbs.
  • TurnThePage's avatar
    TurnThePage
    Explorer
    Feb 19, 2017
    When fully aired up, the P rated tires do a respectable job. I would stick with them until it's time for new ones, then consider upgrading. Because I live in snow country, I'll be upgrading to those LTs before next Winter. The OEM Goodyear SRAs that come on these Rams are not impressive in snow and ice.

    I added the OEM brake controller after the fact and couldn't be happier. It's the smoothest braking I've ever experienced. Virtually no herky-jerky. However, there have been reports of inadequate braking when using the OEM one in conjunction with heavy duty trailer axles. That shouldn't be an issue with a 1500 though, since such a trailer would be way too heavy in the first place.
  • GoHorns's avatar
    GoHorns
    Explorer
    Feb 19, 2017
    My truck does have the 3.21 rear axle ratio. However, that is factored into the stated towing capacity.

    http://webcontent.goodsam.com/trailerlife.com/digital_editions/TrailerLifeTowGuide2016.pdf
  • Bionic_Man's avatar
    Bionic_Man
    Explorer
    Feb 19, 2017
    Sounds like it should work to me. But I am sure the Weight Police will soon be here to tell you why you need a DRW for that trailer.

    In regards to the tires, I do think LT's would be on my upgrade list. Actually, they are on my own upgrade list as I don't like how the P tires on my Yukon XL handle with my 6500 pound boat.
  • dshelley's avatar
    dshelley
    Explorer
    Feb 19, 2017
    The trailer in my sig is similar size to what you're considering, and my truck (2014 5.7 8 speed with 3,92 rear) pulled it fine. You don't mention your differential gearing, but if it's the standard 3.21 I probably would look for something lighter.
    I won't recommend a hitch because any of several rated for the job will do, just be sure to look for one rated for the specific tongue weight. Brake controller? Have the factory controller installed by the dealer. A little more money perhaps, but so much better.

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