Hi,I'm an extreme newbie here and feel like this has got to be a stupid question but here goes; I just bought a KZ Sportsman 291RKLE which is about 33' and has a loaded weight of about 8000 lbs. I'm pulling with a 1500 Silverado (well within its tow capacity) with a Blue Ox Sway Pro wd setup installed at the dealership. My question is do I still need an anti-sway system too? The dealer told me the swaypro should be all I need but I don't want to head off on a long trip and end up being some kind of statistic or a photo of what NOT to do. Thanks Rick(Still learning)

RVNewbie4now wrote:I just bought a KZ Sportsman 291RKLE which is about 33' and has a loaded weight of about 8000 lbs. I'm pulling with a 1500 Silverado (well within its two capacity) with a Blue Ox Sway Pro wd setup installed at the dealership. My question is do I still need an anti-sway system too?As it's name is intended to imply the Blue Ox Sway Pro weight distribution system already features integrated sway control, so the answer is no, there's no reason you should need a stand alone friction sway bar.JMO, but I wouldn't tow any trailer weighing that much with my 1/2 ton Silverado. Power aside, you'd be running a minimum of 1000 lbs of gross tongue weight, possibly more, leaving little payload capacity for everything else. :(

I'd say you need a 3/4 ton and anti sway. You are IMHO overloaded and dangerous. I have delivered TTs, boats and equipment on trailers for years so I do have experience.

You don`t need it as its already equipped. however I would've went with a better system like the Reese Straight Line (Dual Cam). Its a much better sway control system. But since you already have the Sway Pro then stick with that. Just make sure you have 12% of the trailers actual loaded weight. take it to a scale and weigh it.

As said before, you have the anti sway in the Blue Ox unit. If possible you need to load the trailer similar to how you would for a trip, and then pay a visit to a scale. Measure total rig, and trailer only, both hitched and unhitched to ensure you put enough weight on the tongue. 12% to 15% being the goal. This will give you an idea as to how to load in the future to maintain the tongue weight. Rear kitchens can get you nose light in a hurry, folks dont realize how quickly canned goods, drinks, and cooking equipment adds up.

Concur with the answer that you have sway control.Now about your truck's capability. Go out to the truck, open the driver's door, find the sticker that lists the Payload Rating.Subtract from that payload rating the weights of the driver, and all passengers that will be riding in the truck. Subtract, also, the weight of the WD hitch you are using. If you have a topper or tonneau cover, subtract the weight of that. Subtract from that all of the weight of all camping gear you may carry in the bed of the truck, like chairs, tables, grills, generators, firewood, and anything else. Now, take whatever is left and divide by about 13%. Whatever number you get is the heaviest trailer you should tow with that truck (not dry weight, either trailer GVWR or actual scaled trailer weight, loaded and ready to camp). You may be amazed at the answer you get.I am not saying that is too much trailer, but you need to really know. I have an F-150 and the bleeding edge of my truck using those calculations is 8,200#. I don't like to tow at the bleeding edge, so I bought a trailer with a GVWR of 6,000# to give me some cushion. ON EDIT: As a reference, Ford lists my Towing Capacity as 11,800#.I do complement you though, in the very first post you posted the trailer's loaded weight using its GVWR rather than its dry weight like most new RVers do.(You will find that no one here references "Tow Capacity," ever. You will hit the payload capacity LONG before you ever get near the tow capacity. The tow capacity only kicks in if you are pulling something like a hay wagon that has 4 wheels, one on each corner, and a tongue that only has 15 pounds of tongue weight. All of the trailer's weight is carried on the trailer's wheels.)

Do I need an anti-sway setup too? | Good Sam Community

Bobbo
Explorer II
Jul 08, 2018
Not meant to reflect on you at all. You posted that one post, then never posted anything else, even in response to our answers. We just assumed you had stopped logging into this forum. Even an occasional post with just "Thanks" would have let us know you were still there and paying attention.
RVNewbie4now
Explorer
Jul 07, 2018
Not a "hit-and-run" guys. Just considering the responses I've gotten. I can take the news either way and thanks for the responses. I've been on a few short trips already and I do know what I'm dealing with. Not sure if the "hit-and-run" comment was meant to be an insult on my intelligence but, I've just decided to take everything to the local CAT scales, I do pack lightly and am traveling within my limits however, I guess I am in the market for a bigger tow vehicle before setting off on any serious trips. Due to my recent retirement, living dangerously is not on the future agenda. I appreciate all your help.
SoundGuy
Explorer
Jul 05, 2018
DiskDoctr wrote:
Hit-n-run. Poster hasn't been back

drsteve wrote:
Maybe he went camping.

More likely left the building with Elvis when he didn't hear what he wanted to hear. :W
drsteve
Explorer
Jul 05, 2018
DiskDoctr wrote:
Hit-n-run. Poster hasn't been back

Maybe he went camping.
DiskDoctr
Explorer
Jul 05, 2018
Hit-n-run. Poster hasn't been back
rbpru
Explorer II
Jul 05, 2018
As you can tell your truck can pull a lot more than it can carry.

In answer to your question, the Blue Ox has built in anti-sway. A trip to the CAT scales will tell you the cargo and axle load on your vehicle.

Yes, you will most likely be over weight, that means slower acceleration, longer stopping distance and increase wear and tear. However, only you can tell how much of a problem it is.

"Safety" is a very subjective issue. My first truck was severely under powered for the load. Some would consider this unsafe because it meant was slow going and constantly playing the gas pedal to maintain the automatic transmission in the right gear. We still managed a 10 day trip in the Ozarks.

One person's white knuckle drive is another annoying TT response.

I would advise you of a few things.
- You will be pushing your vehicle rather hard.
- You will be passed by everything on the road.
- You will be buffeted by wind and passing trucks.
- You will most likely drive 55 to 60 mph and get about 9 to 10 mpg.

The future may bring a bigger truck but you have what you have for now. As I said, only you can determine if it is a problem.

Safe travels
SoundGuy
Explorer
Jul 05, 2018
Npdchief07 wrote:
Interestingly enough when I went to buy my RV at Colerain RV, I expressed to the sales person my concern over payload capacity. She advised that no one worries about payload capacity and my only concern should be towing capacity. I took my business elsewhere.

Sadly she may be right - many don't have any idea what payload capacity means and just how limiting it can be until you get into the 3/4 ton and up size of truck. This scenario seems to be repeated nearly every day here on the forums with folks, especially newbies, bragging about their vehicle's "towing capacity" but not having any idea that their real concern should be payload capacity, or more correctly lack thereof. :(
Npdchief07
Explorer
Jul 05, 2018
Interestingly enough when I went to buy my RV at Colerain RV, I expressed to the sales person my concern over payload capacity. She advised that no one worries about payload capacity and my only concern should be towing capacity. I took my business elsewhere.
crazyro
Explorer
Jul 02, 2018
RVNewbie4now wrote:
Hi,
I'm pulling with a 1500 Silverado (well within its tow capacity) with a Blue Ox Sway Pro wd setup installed at the dealership.

Rick,

You've gotten great advice already. This honestly sounds to me like another one of those salesmen who simply looked at one number, looked at another, and simply said "Oh, don't worry, your truck can pull that with no problem!" Way too much trailer for that truck. Problem is not just pulling, but also stopping. Keep that in mind as well. I'm pulling with a 1/2 ton truck as well and looked long and hard to find a 32' that weighed less than 5,000 lbs dry. It's what makes me feel the most comfortable pulling. I don't want to run out of capacity before I even start adding things and people. With our setup, even though we truly are WAY within specs, I can tell you that on grades, the truck knows I've got a long trailer behind me.
aftermath
Explorer III
Jul 02, 2018
Rick,

Bobbo has given you some very good advice. I tow with a Toyota Tundra and it has a high tow rating but that doesn't mean squat because, like other half tons, the issue is the payload capacity.

When you drop your trailer on the ball, that weight goes against your payload. And don't go by the advertised tongue weight numbers that come with the trailer. They are almost always too light. Add in the family, the pets and anything you decide to put in the bed and you can go over quickly. If you have P rated tires these will become quite "squishy" and can lead to handling issues. Pumping them up will help but you should plan on replacing them with a good set of LT tires.

My trailer has a GVW of 7300 but I am running down the road at between 6000 and 6500. I know this because I have weighed it a few times. Knowing you weights is important, especially if you are like me driving a half ton. Not a good idea to be "on the edge" of your numbers.

Good luck.

Forum Discussion

Do I need an anti-sway setup too?

About Travel Trailer Group

Related Content

Anti-sway bars ??

Anti sway

Anti-Sway Bars Needed?

Anti sway, wt distribution

Anderson anti sway hitch