Do I need an anti-sway setup too?
Hi, I'm an extreme newbie here and feel like this has got to be a stupid question but here goes; I just bought a KZ Sportsman 291RKLE which is about 33' and has a loaded weight of about 8000 lbs. I'm...
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Concur with the answer that you have sway control.
Now about your truck's capability. Go out to the truck, open the driver's door, find the sticker that lists the Payload Rating.
Subtract from that payload rating the weights of the driver, and all passengers that will be riding in the truck. Subtract, also, the weight of the WD hitch you are using. If you have a topper or tonneau cover, subtract the weight of that. Subtract from that all of the weight of all camping gear you may carry in the bed of the truck, like chairs, tables, grills, generators, firewood, and anything else. Now, take whatever is left and divide by about 13%. Whatever number you get is the heaviest trailer you should tow with that truck (not dry weight, either trailer GVWR or actual scaled trailer weight, loaded and ready to camp). You may be amazed at the answer you get.
I am not saying that is too much trailer, but you need to really know. I have an F-150 and the bleeding edge of my truck using those calculations is 8,200#. I don't like to tow at the bleeding edge, so I bought a trailer with a GVWR of 6,000# to give me some cushion. ON EDIT: As a reference, Ford lists my Towing Capacity as 11,800#.
I do complement you though, in the very first post you posted the trailer's loaded weight using its GVWR rather than its dry weight like most new RVers do.
(You will find that no one here references "Tow Capacity," ever. You will hit the payload capacity LONG before you ever get near the tow capacity. The tow capacity only kicks in if you are pulling something like a hay wagon that has 4 wheels, one on each corner, and a tongue that only has 15 pounds of tongue weight. All of the trailer's weight is carried on the trailer's wheels.)
Now about your truck's capability. Go out to the truck, open the driver's door, find the sticker that lists the Payload Rating.
Subtract from that payload rating the weights of the driver, and all passengers that will be riding in the truck. Subtract, also, the weight of the WD hitch you are using. If you have a topper or tonneau cover, subtract the weight of that. Subtract from that all of the weight of all camping gear you may carry in the bed of the truck, like chairs, tables, grills, generators, firewood, and anything else. Now, take whatever is left and divide by about 13%. Whatever number you get is the heaviest trailer you should tow with that truck (not dry weight, either trailer GVWR or actual scaled trailer weight, loaded and ready to camp). You may be amazed at the answer you get.
I am not saying that is too much trailer, but you need to really know. I have an F-150 and the bleeding edge of my truck using those calculations is 8,200#. I don't like to tow at the bleeding edge, so I bought a trailer with a GVWR of 6,000# to give me some cushion. ON EDIT: As a reference, Ford lists my Towing Capacity as 11,800#.
I do complement you though, in the very first post you posted the trailer's loaded weight using its GVWR rather than its dry weight like most new RVers do.
(You will find that no one here references "Tow Capacity," ever. You will hit the payload capacity LONG before you ever get near the tow capacity. The tow capacity only kicks in if you are pulling something like a hay wagon that has 4 wheels, one on each corner, and a tongue that only has 15 pounds of tongue weight. All of the trailer's weight is carried on the trailer's wheels.)
