$28/gal is only one reason I dislike OATs and HOATs so much....mainly
that it was invented to fight the foreign badges coming out with
5yr/100K warranties. American Green has also crept up in price...maybe
due to reduced volume and/or gouging because the can match
OATs and HOATs pricing
Dealers did NOT want to have to flush coolant during warranty, so toss
out American Green for OATs and HOATs
The organics that coat are not totally consumed during the initial coating
cycle. Nor are the acids totally consumed during that initial cycle
Both react to O2 in the system.
Okay as long as it is held in suspension WITHOUT O2 in there.
Once O2 gets in and reacts with the O & A, it forms acidic globules
during a cooling phase...which is mainly inside the two radiators...the
main engine coolant radiator and heater
If you can see it, it is bad, but worse is when you can NOT see it
Usually in the core not seen via the filler neck (notice that many
radiators no longer have a radiator cap) and will plug the core where
the cooling air is best (not at the perimeter, but centered)
The OP's ability to touch sections of the radiator and feels 'cool'
says to me, that his radiator is plugged.
I almost lost my 7.4L because of that. Kinda sorta good in that I found
that there are several classes of fan clutches. Installed a severe
duty and it helped about a month, then it came back...over heating
Finally read up on OATs and HOATs to learn how it works. Many on this
forum said I was nuts and lacking in understanding of how it works,
but this thread is another potential proof...if it does turn out that
the OP's radiator is plugged. Tough to now find those kinds of articles,
as OATs and HOATs are now the standard.
Either have the radiator rodded out, or a new one installed
A 'good' radiator should have a even temp drop from the hot tank towards
the cold tank.
Not spotty, which says plugged tubes of the core
Why recommended flushing, but that was before the OP said temp gradient
I no longer advise newer vehicles to consider switching to American
Green anymore. The rest of the cooling systems are now so complex,
best to leave them to OEM or better components/materials
Toss in the myriad of sensors for the computer's feedback...too much
that can potentially get screwed up.
Just remember that both the engine and automatic has it's main safeties
tied to temperature. Meaning power mode all the way down to limp mode
are tied to temperature set points
(edit)...air in the engine is indicative of a very poor design...though
there are some out there...
Plus, the flow rates normally flush out the air that does remain
during a fill cycle.
