Note that OATs and HOATs do NOT do well with some of the 'cleansers' and MUST
be totally flushed out BEFORE putting in the new coolant charge
Very BAD things can happen in there and won't notice it...till too late...other
stuff will be taken out ($$$$)
My advise is to go to a 'good' radiator & AC shop. No amount of cleanser will
get the acidic globules out. Maybe rodding it out, but no chem's will do the
job right...and...they will leave nasty chem's in backwater places if not flushed
out properly
Note to the OP...there are radiators and then there are radiators...think just
shopping via 'cost' will getcha an El Cheapo radiator
Things like number of rows, oval vs round vs oblong tubes, numbers of fins per
inch, whether the fins are brazed on or just slide on, the quality of the materials,
and a BIG ETC
Part of that BIG ETC will include the intank coolers for engine oil and ATF.
How many fins do they have? How big are they (length)?
Ditto the other coolers...mainly heater(s) cores.
Finally, if contemplating DIY...gotta get a set of flare nut wrenches for the
ATF lines (some no longer need them and have quick connects...on that make
sure the new radiator has the right hardware and fittings)
(edit)...O2 in with OATs or HOATs only takes days to weeks to do it's
nastiness...how long has the OP been opening his system up to change
out part by part?...
Also, since found in the main radiator...it is also already in the
rest of the cooling system. Engine block, heads, etc...why said almost
lost my big block back in the late 90's...
