Does anyone run the 8ga Lance plug?
Just curious if anyone here runs it? Is it worth the asspain? Do I need a beefed up alternator to keep up? I usually just run the fridge on LP without any issues as it murders the batteries with a qui...
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You might become a fan of 12 volt fridges if you saw how well they will work when supplied with the right power. I hated mine until I installed a DC-DC charger in the TC, with properly sized wires connecting it to the truck batteries.
The charger maintains the camper voltage at a max of 14.6, and can supply a max of 25 amps while the truck is running, day or night. That’s more than the fridge needs to run in DC mode, with some left over to actually charge the TC battery, not just maintain it. You can’t do that with upgraded wires alone, or even a roof full of solar.
If all you want is for the TC turn/brake/clearance/backup lights to work, the RV 7-way blade connector will get the job done. If you want to provide correct charging voltage and current to the TC battery, you’ll need to upgrade the both the OEM wires and the connector. Neither is capable of supplying the voltage and current needed to actually charge a battery.
The reason a 3-way RV fridge running in DC mode typically doesn’t work well is because the fridge is taking more out of the camper battery than the truck can replace. The camper battery voltage then goes lower and lower while driving, the fridge DC heater is putting out less and less heat, and the fridge temperature goes up.
:):)
The charger maintains the camper voltage at a max of 14.6, and can supply a max of 25 amps while the truck is running, day or night. That’s more than the fridge needs to run in DC mode, with some left over to actually charge the TC battery, not just maintain it. You can’t do that with upgraded wires alone, or even a roof full of solar.
If all you want is for the TC turn/brake/clearance/backup lights to work, the RV 7-way blade connector will get the job done. If you want to provide correct charging voltage and current to the TC battery, you’ll need to upgrade the both the OEM wires and the connector. Neither is capable of supplying the voltage and current needed to actually charge a battery.
The reason a 3-way RV fridge running in DC mode typically doesn’t work well is because the fridge is taking more out of the camper battery than the truck can replace. The camper battery voltage then goes lower and lower while driving, the fridge DC heater is putting out less and less heat, and the fridge temperature goes up.
:):)
