Drilling Chrome Bumper

phipps33 wrote:
I am wanting to mount my trailer connector in my bumper next to my license plate. This involves me drilling a 2" hole in the bumper.

That would be the last place I would put it. :S

I have been thinking about doing the same thing. Mine came from the factory with the plug mounted to the hitch with a couple of tack welds it appears. It's just barely hanging on, it is in a spot where it drags on the ground when off road at times. Moving it up will get it out of the way.

Perrysburg Dodgeboy wrote:


Have you looked at the back side of the bumper? The reason I ask is on Ram's anyway the hole is already in the bumper. You only have to knock out the plastic tab if your truck was not ordered with the factory connector. GM might be the same.

Don

Sure did. I was hoping maybe there would just be a knockout, but not that lucky.

1, a hole saw does not cost $280 unless you are buy a high quality set.

2, you never drill steal at high speeds. A 2" hole saw should never run any higher then 100 RPM'S. And you do not need cutting oil. You are better off using no coolant then subjecting the cutting tool to repeated heating and cooling cycles. Again slow speeds, speed creates heat and heat is your enemy.

3, you do not need to tape off metal, Wood yes metal no.

4, use a good primer with 2 coats! Then a top coat of any kind of touch up automotive paint. Let dry over night then install the connector.

Have you looked at the back side of the bumper? The reason I ask is on Ram's anyway the hole is already in the bumper. You only have to knock out the plastic tab if your truck was not ordered with the factory connector. GM might be the same.

Don

great tape it off and use the hole saw for steel . touch up with paint so rust doesn,t start . sounds like you know what your doing.

midnightsadie wrote:
its a easy job but you have to be handy around tools, sounds like your not real handy. find a trailer shop in your area , for $20.bucks they.ll do the job.

Actually, I'm quite handy around tools, but I've never drilled through chrome and was looking for hints/suggestions to make the job easier.

its a easy job but you have to be handy around tools, sounds like your not real handy. find a trailer shop in your area , for $20.bucks they.ll do the job.

SAR Tracker wrote:

agesilaus wrote:
.....If you have a good 1/2 drill motor then you might find a 2 inch metal bit. It will not be cheap tho.

A place where I volunteer just had a need for a 2" bit.... $274 for one bit to drill 6 holes thru 3/4" plate. And we had to rent a magnetic mount drill with a 3/4" chuck.

They do make hole saws for metal...

Where do some of you come up with these ideas that a bit to drill simple steel cost $274!
I have used Blu-Mol hole saws to drill stainless counter tops and sinks! I use to get an easy 10 to 12 1-1-2" holes with a single bit with cutting oil and using slow drill speed!
$9 Blu-Mol 2" hole saw
No you don't need to spend $274 more like $10 to $20, but Amazon. HS it for $9!

agesilaus wrote:
.....If you have a good 1/2 drill motor then you might find a 2 inch metal bit. It will not be cheap tho.

A place where I volunteer just had a need for a 2" bit.... $274 for one bit to drill 6 holes thru 3/4" plate. And we had to rent a magnetic mount drill with a 3/4" chuck.

They do make hole saws for metal...

powderman426 wrote:
I see your a Ham. Surely you know someone with a set of Greenlee punches. That way you can drill a much smaller hole and use the conduit punch to get a smooth clean hole.

Greenlees do make a very nice clean hole but when dealing with a chromed bumper you have the additional chrome plating layer to deal with which if it was not cleaned and plated well at the factory will result in the chrome layer separating from the bumper.

I would think that the chances are now days no matter how careful you are the result will be shortening the life of the chrome layer.

As far as the idea that mounting the connector higher to protect it from weather and salt spray.. Not gonna happen, salt spray will easily get into the upper parts of the bumper.

Best way I know to protect will be to coat the socket pins with an anti oxidizing grease. I use Ox-gard on outdoor electrical connections, it is typically used to prevent oxidization of aluminum service entrance wire but can be used for al to al, al to cu or cu to cu.

GB Ox-Gard

If you are hand wiring the socket, your best bet is to use liquid tape on any exposed copper wires on the back of the socket to seal the copper from the weather.