dual alternators

time for some photos.

trail-explorer,

Sorry, hadn't check back on this thread.

Answer in detail as to wiring etc:

My wires (+ and -) are #2 gauge fine strand welder cable. They go from the Duramax dual alternator junction connection to a 80 amp slide switch first and then to an 80 amp starter solenoid which is activated by the truck's key ignition system with a wire to the fuse box and then the alternator current goes thru an 80 amp marine HD fuse before going into the same gauge plastic sheathed cables going along the truck frame and up into the rear bed to another 80 amp marine fuse and the junction connection stainless wingnuts on well insulated 5/16" brass studs. Several HD wire ties hold the cables tight to the truck's frame.

Also have a lighted toggle switch mounted on the bottom of the left side of the IP so I can turn the alternative alternator current system on or off with the starter solenoid when driving if desired.

In the truck bed under the side rail at the top is where the wingnut connections (separated approx. 6" on individual thick nylon about 1-1/2" wide X 2-1/2" long and about 1" thick insulating blocks) and are located so they are up out of the way and very unlikely to be shorted out by something but still easy to reach.

From there, the same size copper cables go to 2 group 31 12V deep cycle batteries below in the space between the wheel well and the front of the bed. Easily clear even the Lance TC when we load it on including the plywood cover I made to cover and conceal the batteries and keep weather off them. Always use both + and - cables for high amps! Fine strand copper because it bends freely repeatedly without fatigue or breaking.

2 wire cables connected to the TC battery thru a sealed hole into the TC battery compartment is easily connected to the 2 brass studs so there are 3 equal batteries to power the 11-1/2' TC and its 1500 watt inverter.

When the 5h wheel is used, I connect the same size cables from the 5th wheel batteries thru an HD marine 250 amp rotary barrel switch to the brass studs in the truck bed. 5 more of the same batteries are in the front compartments of the 5th wheel and plus the 2 in the bed gives 7 larger 225 minute draw at 23 amps capacity and all recharged by the trucks alternators or the converter or even the Honda gen on the back of the 5th wheel if or when needed or desired.

In the 5th wheel, I have a mounted 2500 watt inverter with a remote control to operate inside the 5th wheel. The inverter is on a totally separate 15 amp AC wiring circuit for the inverter use with 6 mounted duplex outlets in around the inside and one outside in the fridge rear access door. One duplex has a neon indicator bulb I added to the cover near the bottom area of the fridge so it's plain to see if the inverter is on or off.

Created this system back in the 1990's on one rig and then moved it to our new ordered Duramax and it works fabulous still over 20 years since first made. Electric power both AC and DC is silent and therefore NO noise when making coffee or running the microwave or the toaster etc. 7 batteries at 225 min each having a 23 amp draw = 1575 minutes capability and can recharge so quick and easy 3 different ways! Turn any of the system on or off at several locations and all is fused too.

Fridge quits running on gas or out of gas? No problem, just mover the AC plug over to the inverter outlet 4" away. Always have plenty of AC when not on shore power or running a generator for days if desired at a time.

So easy to make the system and not very expensive and your labor is free. You do have to get off the couch and put the remote down though!

What's not to like?

I know it is not fair comparison, but driving Mercedes I naturally compare.
Mercedes makes automatic HVAC for at least 35 years and they do good job.
For last 20 years you have dual or quad zones, so passengers can make individual adjustment.
The only uncomfortable moment is when on heat the system will still blow very hot air with cabin already warm.
There is no program that would gradually lower the heat output on our cars, but the moment last just few seconds and I learn to live with it.
Bottom line, I have my thermostat set and usually never touch it.
Sometimes when I get into the car after some workout, I lower it couple degree, but that is all.
Going to pick up my new F350 in 1 hr and then I am taking my family to Texas Roadhouse (in California) for lunch.
It is going to be exiting day.

Kayteg1 wrote:

ggardne2 wrote:
Electric cabin heater is standard on new Super Duty Diesel's in cold climates. It is simply a supplemental heater to help with cabin warm-up in cold climate since Diesel engines have such a long warm-up time when the vehicle is operated at light load.

In terms of two batteries, that is to provide enough current to crank the Diesel engine in cold climates while at the same time maintaining current for your glow plug system.

Diesels do produce very little heat at idle to start with.
Cold-climate vehicles do come with Webasto heaters as on average commute in cold weather diesel never reaches operating temp.
For some reason Webasto is not an option on US models.
Years ago I ended up in No. Dakota in winter with intention to sleep in the cabin.
The cabin was well warmed up due to hauling, but right after midnight I woke up due to cold. The hot engine at idle cooled down and dash temp gauge went down to 0.
I pushed gas pedal to give it more heat, but it was not much use.
Electric heater not only keeps cabin at comfort level, but also adds load to the engine- keeping it warmer as well.
But dual alternators are installed without electric heaters as well.
Might be good for those who install 4000W stereo in their Superduties.

Hmmmmmmm...I am confused ........You appear to be talking about DIESEL.....

yet you........"Pushed GAS PEDAL".........???????????......:h

My F-350 diesel Dually has 2 alternators....Faster recovery of the Dual Batteries.

Dual Batteries are needed for Starting.....Diesel uses COMPRESSION IGNITION.....VS........Spark Ignition for Gassers.

That s nice feature having the electric heater.

Both of the Duramax trucks have climate control. I leave the temp set at about 72, 73 or 74 in the winter. The HVAC fan won't start blowing air until the ECT reaches 100 or 105 degrees, so the heat doesn't start putting out right away.... so the interior of the truck is cold for a while.

jimh425 wrote:
I've read more about this Rapid Heat option. Based on what I've read over at Ford-trucks.com, it's kind of interesting that it comes on automatically, and there aren't any switches to flip.

While the supplemental heat does come on automatically, if you have the the higher end heater(Lariat and above trim level), you do have some control over how long the supplemental heat stays on via the climate control thermostat.
When I start my truck, I crank up the thermostat as high as it goes, which is 90*. This insures that the supplemental heat stays on until the engine warms up enough for the regular heater to take over.
If you turn the thermostat to the lowest setting( don't remember what that is, 50* or so), the supplemental heat will turn off sooner.
Those that have only the single heavy duty 200 amp alternator have found that the supplemental heat doesn't work as well if you have a lot of additional loads such as seat heaters, head lights, etc. turned on at start up.The electrical load to the supplemental heat will be cut down to match what the alternator can put out.
With dual alternators, there is less chance of that happening.

skyhammer wrote:
My Ford has dual alternators, 1-200 and 1 150 amp.
At start up in the Winter, I am drawing well over 200 amps.The supplemental heater is 1200 watts(120 amps), glow plugs, two seat heaters, air compressor, head lights, plus the other 25 lights or more if trailer and camper are hooked up, and the draw that all the 12 volt and 120 volt outlets have, stereo and other things I forgot.

Good Lord! That is not a pickup truck. That is a self-propelled generator with hauling capability! :B :B :B

That is some serious amps for something that is long duration compared to a snow plow or dump motor which is short .

The Rapid Heat element uses somewhere between 1500-1800W.

I've read more about this Rapid Heat option. Based on what I've read over at Ford-trucks.com, it's kind of interesting that it comes on automatically, and there aren't any switches to flip.