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niftypkg's avatar
niftypkg
Explorer
Nov 17, 2013

Elect hook up on F-250

Truck: 2000 Ford F-250 7.3 diesel in mint condition with towing opt but no camper pkg. Question: Was/is there a wiring harness under the box or under the hood to connect to the camper? Looked and can't find one. Looked like previous owner had a TC slid in. I ran all my camper wires from the front of the camper to the 7 pin Ford OE at tail gate when I mounted the camper. Like to wire it the right way.

7 Replies

  • Great Ideas! I have a brake wire. The truck was used to pull an Airstream. I bought this Diesel because I thought I might upgrade to a fifth wheel but TC works better for this lonely boy. Did fuse the #10 to house batt. This truck disconnects camper batt, with ign. off. Thanks for the aux. batt. bracket info. I was looking for a spot to add a extra batt. My camper batt. is relocated next to water tank to make room for the A/C. ( Previous owner screwed up that and I bought the TC thinking I would finish his screw up work.)
  • I like to put a receptacle and bracket in the bed and wire it to the truck. The above mentioned idea of a #8 or larger charge wire is a good idea. While in the bed, I would recommend a front camper stop and some camper guides. My Avion actually takes two plugs because I removed the battery from inside the camper and increased water capacity. The Ford can take an extra battery on the outside of the frame on the passenger side. TorkLift makes them.

    Notice receptacles on both sides.
  • Better running #8 or even #6 if you have to run new anyway from truck bat to bed plug,@ bed plug butt connect the wire to a size wire that will fit the plug terminal, pick up the other 6 wires along the harness to the rear @ bumper ( 5 + ground), reground at bed plug, run even the elec brake wire , you might get a fifth wheel some day

    Like anev942 said use a solinoid if you run new to truck bat , or even if you dont and your trailer harness positve lead is hot with ingition off( you can get one made for this purpose at a rv place) that will cut power btwn camper and truck when ignition is off , just need a ignition on hot wire to power the solinoid . Good idea to put a thermal breaker on the truck end new line if your going to connect to the truck battery

    If your running the wire new to the camper battery put a thermal breaker before the camper battery
  • Nothing was wired correctly in this camper including the converter. Had to rewire that first. From answers looks like a matter of choice whether to splice of use adaptor. Never liked what I did. Running a #10 charge wire from the Pollack to the TC battery. Thanks guys.
  • Old-Biscuit wrote:
    If your truck has a factory plug at rear of truck then you can get an 8' harness with plugs & receptacle.

    Just unplug rear harness...plug in new harness connector (replug original back in) and then run new harness to front of bed and install receptacle

    LINK



    Thats a great setup, but the charge wire is kind of lacking in size if you do it like that, if you need truck alternator charging
  • If your truck has a factory plug at rear of truck then you can get an 8' harness with plugs & receptacle.

    Just unplug rear harness...plug in new harness connector (replug original back in) and then run new harness to front of bed and install receptacle

    LINK

  • I assume you want to add a bed plug? Youll have to add it and a pigtail, Most are spliced into truck harness under drivers side of cab. No factory plug (or allowance), even on camper pkg..

    IF you were so inclined though now would be a good time to add ignition controlled constant duty solenoid, run heavier charge & ground line, not tapping the factory tow chargline.

    Also check that you have relay installed in the engine bay fuse box (or otherwise confirm 12v charge line turns off with key)If PO had camper Id assume there but to assume...