Equal-izer change.

Wow, there is allot of opinions out there. To the suggestion of hydrolic ramps, no but I my entertain the use of a wedge at the front to drive up on therefore putting the wheeler at an angle and shortening the length needed in the bed.
As to the other concerns...I do believe it will put more stress on the TV hitch. I will watch that for any bending or stress. The TT weighs in at #4260 dry and about #5000 the way I have it loaded. I have to believe manufactures have some kind of liability to only make accessories that are within the specs of their equipment. Otherwise we would have law suites. Thanks again for all the great input.
I will carry the old one with me and if I have to make a switch on the road, I will.

Chuck&Gail wrote:
I went and read the old thread. I wish we had an answer from a RECEIVER manufacturer. I do know I contacted the receiver manufacturer on our 1999 Mercedes ML320. They clearly said THEIR receiver was rated for a 10" distance from ball to hitch pin. They said I needed to derate the receiver capacity if I used a longer drawbar. They said they thought that was pretty standard in the industry.

Sorry I do not still have the email, it was 14 years ago after all.

I know some think if I use a really long length drawbar I could tow a 10,000# trailer with a Pinto, but I'm not going to try it. To each his own.

One final point. It was said no receiver failures were reported here. Didn't I read a lot about GM receivers bending a year ago or so?

It was more than a year ago. I had one on my 2001 dually. What a cheap piece of tin. I replaced it with a real receiver upon finding cracks in the welds...BTW, that receiver towed a lighter TT than I now have with a standard drawbar and was well under the receiver rating.

Did you notice that REESE makes a 14K, 18" drawbar? They also make receivers. Last I checked, their biggest receiver topped out at 15K That doesn't leave a lot of room for derating. Why would they sell such a item without any disclaimer if it cannot be used at that rating?
According to your derating theory, that 14K drawbar would need either a receiver rated at well over 20K, which doesn't exist, or to be derated to about 8K, which no manufacturer of hitches/drawbars recommends.

Torklift also makes receivers. They stated in that thread that there was NO derating necessary with drawbars using WD up to 16" pin hole to hitch hole, or the same as 18" overall.
Torklift

I went and read the old thread. I wish we had an answer from a RECEIVER manufacturer. I do know I contacted the receiver manufacturer on our 1999 Mercedes ML320. They clearly said THEIR receiver was rated for a 10" distance from ball to hitch pin. They said I needed to derate the receiver capacity if I used a longer drawbar. They said they thought that was pretty standard in the industry.

Sorry I do not still have the email, it was 14 years ago after all.

I know some think if I use a really long length drawbar I could tow a 10,000# trailer with a Pinto, but I'm not going to try it. To each his own.

One final point. It was said no receiver failures were reported here. Didn't I read a lot about GM receivers bending a year ago or so?

Bet you never thought of inventing a set of hydraulic ramps to raise the 4 wheeler after you load it and then close the tailgate under it. I'm going to patent that one.

I know what you're going through. I had to use one of those 40# shanks on my 1st TT because it sat too low for the standard shank and complained about it every time I had to hook up or put it away. My new TT sits a little higher so I am able to use a standard shank at half the weight. I don't know who's happier me for not having to mess with the heavy shank or my wife to have me stop complaining.

Chuck&Gail wrote:
Changes? It depends on your tongue weight. Most drawbars are spec'd for 10" between hitch pin and center of ball. Suppose VEHICLE (not receiver, VEHICLE) is spec'd for 1000# tongue weight. Using a 12" drawbar actually decreases the max tongue weight spec slightly, to 833#, although folks usually ignore that. HOWEVER, using an 18" drawbar decreases the max allowable tongue weight to 555#. As long as that is within your TT specs, fine, but that means a max of around 4273#. How heavy is your TT?

Problem has to do with torque on the hitch to vehicle attachment. Personally I'd remove the tailgate and throw the extension away, but that is just me.

We had a 5 page thread on this awhile back. Barney even got some manufacturers involved.
You can read into it what you want...
Have been using this 18" drawbar for several years. My TT weighs about 11,500. No I do not worry about it.

extended drawbar debate.

Changes? It depends on your tongue weight. Most drawbars are spec'd for 10" between hitch pin and center of ball. Suppose VEHICLE (not receiver, VEHICLE) is spec'd for 1000# tongue weight. Using a 12" drawbar actually decreases the max tongue weight spec slightly, to 833#, although folks usually ignore that. HOWEVER, using an 18" drawbar decreases the max allowable tongue weight to 555#. As long as that is within your TT specs, fine, but that means a max of around 4273#. How heavy is your TT?

Problem has to do with torque on the hitch to vehicle attachment. Personally I'd remove the tailgate and throw the extension away, but that is just me.

ZeeLet50 wrote:
If I ever need to bring the 4 wheeler with me it will not fit into the bed with the gate shut.

You could leave the tailgate home .

I would be more concerned about putting another 600 lb (avg ATV) on your rear axle and payload

I did exactly what you did. Only my TV was a 2001 Dmax dually CC.
I noticed that the ride was bumpier when I was lightly loaded, but settled down nicely when loaded heavy. Two things likely caused this.
First, I did not reset up my hitch. This likely meant that the same bar tension on the longer shank resulted in more weight transfer, which likely caused my rear axle to move off the overload springs.
Then when hitting a bump, the axle would make contact with them, and the spring rate would change,,,making for a bumpy ride..I was going to make a adjustment to see if it could be dialed out, but ended up selling that truck.

Since you reset your WD, and likely do not have overloads, it will likely handle just fine for you. Let us know as I am curious.

My new truck is towing with the same hitch, but of course it was set up from scratch, and it works great.

And I am a big proponent of being able to open the tailgate. Gotta load/unload stuff, and it prevents those nasty dents when the tailgate hits the TT.:B