Hey guysWill be getting a new Imagine 2800BH next year and looking into getting a Equal-i-zer HitchI did the hitch size calculator on their website and it is telling me to get the 1400 lb version.GTW - 7995 lbsTongue weight - Dry 604 lbs - Rough actual - 13% is 1039 lbsCargo weight in bed of truck - 400 lbs Truck hitch says max is 1250 lbsis 1400 lbs bars to stiff or should I go with the 1200 lb versionAll figures are estimates but close

Seems like 1200 lb bars to me. I don't think the weight in the bed comes into play.

If you go with the heftier system, you'll never have to purchase a set again when you decide to get a heavier trailer someday. I had 14,000 / 1400 Equal-i-zer's but my trailer was heavier and my truck was a 1 ton dualy. Overkill? perhaps, but I never had issues of being under-par. Your choice, but if mine again, I'd go with the heftier system.I gave my Equal-i-zer system to a colleague at work who purchased a Keystone Passport (approx 8000 pounds) towing with a 1500 Expedition. He said it towed with no problem at all. The WD system worked just fine.

opnspaces wrote:Seems like 1200 lb bars to me. I don't think the weight in the bed comes into play.When you do the calculation on their website they ask for the bed weight i guess because you are transferring weight from the rear axle and anything over the axle adds to the transfer weight

Bigfoot2005 wrote:opnspaces wrote:Seems like 1200 lb bars to me. I don't think the weight in the bed comes into play.When you do the calculation on their website they ask for the bed weight i guess because you are transferring weight from the rear axle and anything over the axle adds to the transfer weightWhat is the issue with having to stiff of the bars? 1400 versus 1200

I'm using the 1,400/14,000 Equal-i-zer 4 point with the 7,800 lbs trailer gross in my signature and the Ram 1500. Rides fine. I had the 1,200/12,000 previously and the hitch head broke. To my mind, the dynamic forces are a consideration rather than just the non-moving static weights. If your hitch weight would be 15% of gross based on trailer loading in the front, you'd be at 1,200 lbs anyway.

Equal-izer Hitch Bars | Good Sam Community

Huntindog
Explorer
Aug 11, 2019
delwhjr wrote:
Bigfoot2005 wrote:
Hey guys

Will be getting a new Imagine 2800BH next year and looking into getting a Equal-i-zer Hitch

I did the hitch size calculator on their website and it is telling me to get the 1400 lb version.

GTW - 7995 lbs
Tongue weight - Dry 604 lbs - Rough actual - 13% is 1039 lbs
Cargo weight in bed of truck - 400 lbs

Truck hitch says max is 1250 lbs

is 1400 lbs bars to stiff or should I go with the 1200 lb version

All figures are estimates but close

When I moved to my current trailer, I contacted Equal-i-zer on the question of which hitch. I was using a 1/10 and would need to go to at least the 12/12. The rep said there would be no downside to going to the 14/14 vs the 12/12. I am glad I went with the 14/14, as now I won't have to replace hitch if I go a little heavier with the next trailer. It has performed great.
There would be no downside IF, and only IF your TT frame can handle a stiffer than needed bar. One of my TTs manuals stated what size bars were permissable, depending on how thick the frame was. That was back in 2001. TT frames have not gotten heavier duty since then.

As some have already said. The right size is the right size. If you want to go to a heavier bar than needed, and are OK with a stiffer ride....Be safe and check with your TT manufacturer first! You could avoid an expensive mistake.
delwhjr
Explorer
Aug 11, 2019
Bigfoot2005 wrote:
Hey guys

Will be getting a new Imagine 2800BH next year and looking into getting a Equal-i-zer Hitch

I did the hitch size calculator on their website and it is telling me to get the 1400 lb version.

GTW - 7995 lbs
Tongue weight - Dry 604 lbs - Rough actual - 13% is 1039 lbs
Cargo weight in bed of truck - 400 lbs

Truck hitch says max is 1250 lbs

is 1400 lbs bars to stiff or should I go with the 1200 lb version

All figures are estimates but close

When I moved to my current trailer, I contacted Equal-i-zer on the question of which hitch. I was using a 1/10 and would need to go to at least the 12/12. The rep said there would be no downside to going to the 14/14 vs the 12/12. I am glad I went with the 14/14, as now I won't have to replace hitch if I go a little heavier with the next trailer. It has performed great.
Lynnmor
Explorer
Aug 11, 2019
Hannibal wrote:
Stiffer bars put more stress on the A frame to chassis point of the trailer as well. Picture if the bars didn't give at all. The A frame would have to.

Yep, the bars are basically springs that need to flex, use the correct size.
Hannibal
Explorer
Aug 10, 2019
Stiffer bars put more stress on the A frame to chassis point of the trailer as well. Picture if the bars didn't give at all. The A frame would have to. Unless it's built like a tank, you might be posting one day of a broken or bent A frame. I prefer no weight distribution but I'm over the weight limit for non WD. So I'm using as little as I can to pull the front of the TV about half way back to unloaded height. Tows like a champ.
DutchmenSport
Explorer
Aug 10, 2019
Bigfoot2005 wrote:

What is the issue with having to stiff of the bars? 1400 versus 1200

Stiffer bars make for a bumpier ride. That's about all. A softer bar allows more porpoising. Some receiver hitches in vehicles are rated at different weights.
Muleycrazy
Explorer
Aug 10, 2019
Bigfoot2005 wrote:
Bigfoot2005 wrote:
opnspaces wrote:
Seems like 1200 lb bars to me. I don't think the weight in the bed comes into play.

When you do the calculation on their website they ask for the bed weight i guess because you are transferring weight from the rear axle and anything over the axle adds to the transfer weight

What is the issue with having to stiff of the bars? 1400 versus 1200
A rough ride and potential damage to the type frame
Bars are like shoes
Bigger isn’t better
The right size is the right size

As for the bed weight some believe in adding it in
Some don’t
Whatever you believe only the weight behind the tv rear axle would be counted
I have now had 3 different sized EQUALIZER hitches
As I moved up in tt weight I bought the next size up to match the weight
WayneAt63044
Explorer
Aug 10, 2019
I'm using the 1,400/14,000 Equal-i-zer 4 point with the 7,800 lbs trailer gross in my signature and the Ram 1500. Rides fine. I had the 1,200/12,000 previously and the hitch head broke. To my mind, the dynamic forces are a consideration rather than just the non-moving static weights. If your hitch weight would be 15% of gross based on trailer loading in the front, you'd be at 1,200 lbs anyway.
Bigfoot2005
Explorer
Aug 10, 2019
Bigfoot2005 wrote:
opnspaces wrote:
Seems like 1200 lb bars to me. I don't think the weight in the bed comes into play.

When you do the calculation on their website they ask for the bed weight i guess because you are transferring weight from the rear axle and anything over the axle adds to the transfer weight

What is the issue with having to stiff of the bars? 1400 versus 1200
Bigfoot2005
Explorer
Aug 10, 2019
opnspaces wrote:
Seems like 1200 lb bars to me. I don't think the weight in the bed comes into play.

When you do the calculation on their website they ask for the bed weight i guess because you are transferring weight from the rear axle and anything over the axle adds to the transfer weight
DutchmenSport
Explorer
Aug 10, 2019
If you go with the heftier system, you'll never have to purchase a set again when you decide to get a heavier trailer someday. I had 14,000 / 1400 Equal-i-zer's but my trailer was heavier and my truck was a 1 ton dualy. Overkill? perhaps, but I never had issues of being under-par. Your choice, but if mine again, I'd go with the heftier system.

I gave my Equal-i-zer system to a colleague at work who purchased a Keystone Passport (approx 8000 pounds) towing with a 1500 Expedition. He said it towed with no problem at all. The WD system worked just fine.