I have an Eagle 298BHS, about 30ft and 8500lb loaded (~1000lb tongue) which I've pulled with a 3/4YukonXL using an Equilizer hitch for the last few years, it pulls great.I just purchased a Silverado 3500HD SRW Diesel. The 2.5" receiver says its good for 1500lb tongue weight. It has an integrated brake controller with Stabilitrak sway control (active brake management). Per the specs I don't need to use the Equilizer hitch. This would make the hitch process much simpler (especially with the back-up camera) - in fact almost as easy as a 5er I'm thinking.My question is who does this? Am I going to be sorry without the Equilizer or will it pull just as well with just a ball now? I'll take it out and try, but just wondering what others experiences are.Thanks,Ron

Your truck will handle better with a W/D hitch.I'm not sure I buy into the easier to not use them theory either. Whats it take to snap a couple bars in place? 30 seconds?

Some folks are going to say your application requires a WD hitch. Chevrolet engineers disagree. That front axle weight with the diesel is heavy enough to maintain control. No heavy hitch assembly to install, no bars to mess with. You are correct, I find that hitching/unhitching with the use of my electric tongue jack to be quicker than it was with my fifth wheel trailer.

But if it was mine, I would NOT tow without sway control. I doubt your new Chevy applies JUST the TT brakes when needed, does it?

Short bed or long bed?Regular, extended, or crew cab?

6.6ft bed, crew cab. Does that matter?

Equilizer hitch needed on 3500? | Good Sam Community

16 Replies

MO_Trout_Bum
Explorer
May 23, 2013
I's try it both ways, however think you're going to find that it may porpoise or sway too much for your liking with the tongue weight from that size rig. I'd be doing WDH and sway control, personally. Based on my experience with a 8200LB Hornet 30BHS and the 2500HD in my signature...
MO_Trout_Bum
Explorer
May 23, 2013
I's try it both ways, however think you're going to find that it may porpoise or sway too much for your liking with the tongue weight from that size rig. I'd be doing WDH and sway control, personally. Based on my experience with a 8200LB Hornet 30BHS and the 2500HD in my signature...
TomG2
Explorer
May 23, 2013
wintersun wrote:
............ GM for its heavy duty trucks recommends a WDH for any trailer over 5,000 lbs. and a WDH with sway control for any trailer weighing more than 7,500 lbs. ..................

You must be looking at some older information. From the current GM owner's manual, here is GM's latest thinking concerning the requirements for Weight distributing hitches:

"Optional for 2500/3500 models for up to 18,000 pounds" or "1,500 pounds of tongue weight".
wintersun
Explorer II
May 22, 2013
The need for a WDH depends upon the trailer tongue weight and all the truck manufactures specify the trailer weight where a WDH is recommended. GM for its heavy duty trucks recommends a WDH for any trailer over 5,000 lbs. and a WDH with sway control for any trailer weighing more than 7,500 lbs. The GM trucks can handle a trailer up to 16,500 lbs. with a ball hitch if it is the right setup.
MackinawMan
Explorer
May 20, 2013
We have an F350 with the crew cab and 8 ft. bed (so a very long wheelbase)

I've towed our 35' and 9,000 lb (when fully loaded) Jayco Eagle with our Equalizer Brand WD hitch on and without it. While it tows OK without the Equalizer hooked up it tows excellent with it on...so I tow with it on.
Hannibal
Explorer
May 20, 2013
With a short drawbar, I'd think you could get away with just the ball. It doesn't take much extension before you feel the difference. Manufactured homes are delivered using very short TV's and no WD or sway control. Notice the short axel to ball distance. It can be done with enough truck, short overhang and properly distributed trailer weight.
Tystevens
Explorer
May 20, 2013
When I had my 2500, I was within all my ratings on the truck, and didn't "need" the Equalizer. But the tow was much smoother with it -- less bouncing on freeway joints, etc. For quick local maintenance trips (ie, to run to the trailer store to empty tanks), I didn't bother with the bars, but when we headed out, we preferred the feeling of having the bars hooked up (albeit with not much weight being distributed, so the bars were quick and easy to put on and take off).
Chuck_Gail
Explorer
May 20, 2013
8500# TT needs a tongue weight of 1105# to 1275# to tow properly IMHO. 1000# is a bit too light for a hardsided TT.

Note most receivers are rated for 10" from the hitch pin to the center of the ball. If you use a 15" pin to ball drawebar, the maximum tongue weight decreases A LOT. Say the receiver was rated for 1000# (with normal 10" drawbar). If a 15" drawbar is used the maximum tongue weight rating falls to 667#. Be careful out there.
jerem0621
Explorer II
May 20, 2013
Yes... Not required but makes everything ride much nicer.
MNRon
Explorer
May 20, 2013
As TomG2 said above, eliminating the hassle with dragging out the heavy hitch, putting the bars on, and up and down to tension the bars would save most of the time and effort.

I'll give it a try using the heavy hitch but not bothering with the bars, if that pulls fine I'll start looking for a simpler dead hitch and make the hitching process very simple.

Next question, could I get a ~15" or so ball mount which would allow the tailgate to drop without hitting the electric tongue lift? Or would that be too much leverage working against me with a 9K trailer and 1K tongue?