Escalade/Tahoe/Suburban suspension upgrades

Paranoid wrote:
BenK... I had the rear shocks replaced at Firestone before I drove out from Ohio to Arizona. I recall they had to get the shocks from the dealer, and they weren't cheap. The whole "Air Ride" self leveling system has always been dubious to me. My back end sinks considerably, even with load balancing, with a ~600 tongue weight. On my way out I saw another Escalade towing a much smaller travel trailer than mine, also with load balancing bars, that was bottomed out even worse. I pointed it out to my passenger. Mine really isn't bad. I sink a little less than 2" in back and rise about half an inch in front. But I have never noticed the air leveling that is supposed to be a feature on the Escalade do anything practical for me.

I would be inclined to go with Strutmasters or a Monroe air ride to coil strut conversion. IIRC they have the connector to fools the computer and get the check suspension light off. I did this with my 2000 town car and can't be happier!!

BenK... I had the rear shocks replaced at Firestone before I drove out from Ohio to Arizona. I recall they had to get the shocks from the dealer, and they weren't cheap. The whole "Air Ride" self leveling system has always been dubious to me. My back end sinks considerably, even with load balancing, with a ~600 tongue weight. On my way out I saw another Escalade towing a much smaller travel trailer than mine, also with load balancing bars, that was bottomed out even worse. I pointed it out to my passenger. Mine really isn't bad. I sink a little less than 2" in back and rise about half an inch in front. But I have never noticed the air leveling that is supposed to be a feature on the Escalade do anything practical for me.

The last time checked (about 2005), the Caddie's parts are NOT inter
changeable with the Tahoe

Even though both are labeled 'Autoride'

Plus, they are very special shocks that cost several hundred EACH. Back
then, they were around $600 bucks EACH. Assume they have come down a bit
and the last time read someone checking they were around $399 EACH

Because they have a metalized shock oil (iron oxide) that changes
viscosity when exposed to a flux field (magnetic). Very nifty, but
since an iron oxide in the oil...abrasive to wear the sealing surfaces
to then leak. A very common failure mode

Plus, the rear has an air ride height system

Optional on Tahoe's but IIRC, standard in the Caddie

If you convert to standard shocks as some have advised, you will need
the kit to 'fool' the computer system into thinking it's still there
and no changes needed by the computer

Some great info here, guys. Thanks.

Just took it up to Mogollon Rim, Arizona. The Escalade is starting to show its age, and of course, the heat out here is worse than anything we've ever subjected it to either further North through the Rockies or along the East Coast all the way down through the Appalachians into Florida. At times both the engine and the transmission were running hotter than I would have liked to see them... I just can't push the limits like I was able to do when it only had 50k miles on it.

The suspension and stability was fine, though - descending and climbing some long steep 6% grades in fairly strong cross winds and I wasn't feeling any more white knuckled than I would have in a C or A class.

Hybridhunter wrote:
Replace the highly questionable GM shocks with something with much better rebound dampening. That is a flea in ALMOST all GM truck suspensions. Even the 3/4 & 1 tons

I would disagree on certain applications, particularly late model GMT400 trucks where GM spec'd Bilstein shocks. Pulled a couple sets pushing 200k and they had plenty of life left in them.

Replace the highly questionable GM shocks with something with much better rebound dampening. That is a flea in ALMOST all GM truck suspensions. Even the 3/4 & 1 tons

Does the AutoRide still function properly? Mine was toast on our 02 Yukon XL Denali. The PO had put some mid grade Napa regular shocks on the rear just before we purchased it fall 2012, about 25k ago. I installed Air Lift bags in the rear coils last year after the first tow which helped greatly but still couldn't get the ass end up enough. The bags were simply too short so I added 3/4 inch spacers this spring which made a tremendous difference.
The original AutoRide front shocks were still on the front so I just replaced those with Gabriel Max Control along with new sway bar links and sway bar bushing. Those three upgrades made a tremendous improvement to ride and handling on the front axle. I will doing the same maintenance to the rear very soon.

Shocks, sway bar links and bushings are all really maintenance on a 12 year old rig with 200k. As for a true mod, look into a Spohn track bar for the rear. The OE track bar is surprisingly flimsy. We are sitting on a seasonal this year but if we were towing every other weekend I would already have the Spohn installed.

What are you running for tires?

ib516 wrote:
Look into timbrens.

Put Timbrens on my 2500HD (Similar GM chassis).
They DESTROYED the empty ride. Took 'em off after about 50 miles.

I probably wouldn't do anything. Some swear by Bilstein shocks, but I've never had them.

It doesn't sound like you need to do anything with springs and such. That only leaves tires. Lower profiles / stiffer sidewalls help. You could change to a LT tire if you have P- tires on now.

Look into timbrens.