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87bob's avatar
87bob
Explorer
Mar 11, 2013

Eternabond?

I am re-roofing a 1996 Jayco Eagle and for the vents and other projections through the top and sides of the unit I am considering the Eternabond product what is your experience with it?
  • 87bob wrote:
    I am re-roofing a 1996 Jayco Eagle and for the vents and other projections through the top and sides of the unit I am considering the Eternabond product what is your experience with it?


    Bob, On my Jayco (Same model as yours) I used a product called "Quick Roof Rubber" Works like Eternabond and comes in a 6" wide roll. I cut the strips down to 3" wide to cover the screws and flange of the vents. I used a full 6" wide strip along the end seams where the rubber meets the corrugated aluminum.

    Quick Roof

    This stuff is super sticky, I used some to patch holes last fall and had trouble removing it for the re-roof job...
  • Dayton furnace blower, DIY manometer, ladder, piece of plywood taped in window opening:







    In a 22' Starcraft, I was pushing 2" on the manometer. The commercial testers pull 1" or less so there was plenty of pressure. One thing I thought of in advance (not too often this happens, lol) was to sketch out five pages with all the sides, front, back, and roof. It then made it pretty easy to mark on the paper where the leaks were, go back and fill the openings with Geocel Tripolymer sealant (similar to Geocel Proflex). My experience, too, was that all of the Eternabond areas held without leaks. The one exception was the smallest of pinholes at the junction of two tapes. I rerolled that joint and hit it with a little sealant.
    My pressure test turned up about 20 leaks. This was after completely reframing, restoring, and resealing every joint. A lot of the leaks were at corners, siding panel intersections, marker lights, and such.
  • I like your blower system will have to try it out on my rig.
  • It can be done by a dealer. Also some have used leaf blowers through a door or window. I had an old furnace blower I rigged through the pass through storage. Slide in. Found dozens of leaks on a 2 year old trailer. Ended up pulling out all the caulking and replacing it. None of the Eternabond I had put in leaked though.

    Pics:




    The blank in the pass through opening was held in with toggle bolts.
  • I have a rookie question. How do pressurize the interior with a blower? And do you do this with the slide in or out?

    westend wrote:
    Jerry9n wrote:
    It's great. Used it on all the penetrations and seams on our roof. Make sure the roof is clean and you use plenty of pressure.

    Also, you can use a caulk like Pro Flex along edges and joints if you wish.
    Exactly!
    Tip: When you're done and everything is sealed, pressurize the interior with a blower and spray soapy water over the exterior. Every pinhole will turn up.

    A pin hole exposed:
  • Jerry9n wrote:
    It's great. Used it on all the penetrations and seams on our roof. Make sure the roof is clean and you use plenty of pressure.

    Also, you can use a caulk like Pro Flex along edges and joints if you wish.
    Exactly!
    Tip: When you're done and everything is sealed, pressurize the interior with a blower and spray soapy water over the exterior. Every pinhole will turn up.

    A pin hole exposed:
  • It's great. Used it on all the penetrations and seams on our roof. Make sure the roof is clean and you use plenty of pressure.

    Also, you can use a caulk like Pro Flex along edges and joints if you wish.
  • Used it, love it, great factory support if you have questions. Start slow, it takes a little practice and it sticks like nobody's business. There's no loosening it or repositioning it. Where it touches anything, it sticks. Good luck.