F-150 fan clutch issue: second act
Re: this first thread, today I got a chance to hitch up and try out my new $2700 repair (torque converter, valve body, cooling radiator unit, misc. new clamp, fluids, and gaskets). This was supposed t...
Forum Discussion
Ford, so HOATs coolant. GM uses OATs coolant
Both do NOT do well when the closed cooling system is exposed to O2 for long periods
The A, or acid, reacts with the O, or organic coating material, to form gooey
globules in the 'cool down' section of the radiators (main, heater core, etc)
When O2 is added to that mixture
The Acid etches all metal surfaces down to bare metal. Suspends the
stuff etched off. Then the Organic coats the now bare metal...but it
takes around 1,000 miles of driving to do so.
If air, O2, gets in there, it will form a new 'rust' (oxide) coating
on the metal and mix with the suspended, etched metal to form
acidic globules
If not out right blockage, coating to narrow the opening sizes
That will then plug or partially narrow them down to a trickle.
You can NOT see that with the naked eyeball...
Hope they also flushed the whole system and not just put in a new radiator and
new coolant. It is TOUGH to get out all of those gooey globules.
Really needs 'cleanser' and through flushing
If not, then a repeat all too soon...
Carry an IR heat gun with you on the trip and check many, many, many spots
of the radiator (top to bottom, side to side, diagonal, etc), all of the tubes/hoses/etc
that go in/out of the radiator
You might have a drawing with 'X' marks the spots you will be shooting to
take a reading
You might have an air leak somewhere that is allowing air (O2) into the cooling
system
HOATs and OATs work just fine...*IF*...air is NOT allowed in there
once air gets in there, that gooey globules will form to both block
and etch
Both do NOT do well when the closed cooling system is exposed to O2 for long periods
The A, or acid, reacts with the O, or organic coating material, to form gooey
globules in the 'cool down' section of the radiators (main, heater core, etc)
When O2 is added to that mixture
The Acid etches all metal surfaces down to bare metal. Suspends the
stuff etched off. Then the Organic coats the now bare metal...but it
takes around 1,000 miles of driving to do so.
If air, O2, gets in there, it will form a new 'rust' (oxide) coating
on the metal and mix with the suspended, etched metal to form
acidic globules
If not out right blockage, coating to narrow the opening sizes
That will then plug or partially narrow them down to a trickle.
You can NOT see that with the naked eyeball...
Hope they also flushed the whole system and not just put in a new radiator and
new coolant. It is TOUGH to get out all of those gooey globules.
Really needs 'cleanser' and through flushing
If not, then a repeat all too soon...
Carry an IR heat gun with you on the trip and check many, many, many spots
of the radiator (top to bottom, side to side, diagonal, etc), all of the tubes/hoses/etc
that go in/out of the radiator
You might have a drawing with 'X' marks the spots you will be shooting to
take a reading
You might have an air leak somewhere that is allowing air (O2) into the cooling
system
HOATs and OATs work just fine...*IF*...air is NOT allowed in there
once air gets in there, that gooey globules will form to both block
and etch
benk wrote:
Posted 5/23/15 02.18pm
I'd now suggest taking the main radiator out and have it boiled out or
flow checked. All three systems of it...assume it has an engine oil and
ATF section in addition to the engine coolant section...
