Factory EBC or use my P3?

RCMAN46 wrote:

RasMouSein wrote:

RCMAN46 wrote:

RasMouSein wrote:
I have the P3 it's great except in slow traffic, after a few second of crimping it automaicly apply a set braking... it make the trailer jerk...

The factory one should be best, because it check how much brake pedal is aplied and brake acordingly , just need to set how much your trailer needs.

But I have to admit, the boost mode on the P3 is great

You have too much boost for the size of trailer being towed. Dial down the boost and the jerk may go away.

Another thing that can cause jurk is too much play in the hitch system.

When I'm driving like 1 or 2 km/h, I'm braking, at first the controller sends under one volts, but after a few seconds it jumps to 2.5volts...

The 2.5 volts is the hold voltage which is 25 percent of max voltage controller is set for.

It will not activate until there is no deacceleration. You are not braking the tv only activating the brake lights thus the P3 goes to the hold mode after about 5 seconds.

Tomato tamato !!! lol

RasMouSein wrote:

RCMAN46 wrote:

RasMouSein wrote:
I have the P3 it's great except in slow traffic, after a few second of crimping it automaicly apply a set braking... it make the trailer jerk...

The factory one should be best, because it check how much brake pedal is aplied and brake acordingly , just need to set how much your trailer needs.

But I have to admit, the boost mode on the P3 is great

You have too much boost for the size of trailer being towed. Dial down the boost and the jerk may go away.

Another thing that can cause jurk is too much play in the hitch system.

When I'm driving like 1 or 2 km/h, I'm braking, at first the controller sends under one volts, but after a few seconds it jumps to 2.5volts...

The 2.5 volts is the hold voltage which is 25 percent of max voltage controller is set for.

It will not activate until there is no deacceleration. You are not braking the tv only activating the brake lights thus the P3 goes to the hold mode after about 5 seconds.

I had to install a P3 on my 2013 Chevy, as the Chevy IBC won't work with electric over hydraulic brakes.
On the other hand, my 2011 Ford DRW IBC works with either electric or electric over hydraulic brake systems.

RCMAN46 wrote:

RasMouSein wrote:
I have the P3 it's great except in slow traffic, after a few second of crimping it automaicly apply a set braking... it make the trailer jerk...

The factory one should be best, because it check how much brake pedal is aplied and brake acordingly , just need to set how much your trailer needs.

But I have to admit, the boost mode on the P3 is great

You have too much boost for the size of trailer being towed. Dial down the boost and the jerk may go away.

Another thing that can cause jurk is too much play in the hitch system.

When I'm driving like 1 or 2 km/h, I'm braking, at first the controller sends under one volts, but after a few seconds it jumps to 2.5volts...

When I get the camper out this next weekend I’ll setup the factory one and see how it does. I pulled it once in late fall after buying this truck and that was only 30 minutes down the road. I just put Bilstein 4600s on last night and new tires go on Tuesday. Towing 5 hours one way in a couple of weeks so I’ll get it all sorted out next weekend.

I love the factory set up on my '12 Sierra 2500hd diesel, especially with the exhaust brake. Making sure the play is taken out of the receiver hitch will help too.

Have used both the P3 and Factory EBC on 2014 Silverado 3500. Factory was much smoother and sold the P3. Nothing but factory on my 2017.

RasMouSein wrote:
I have the P3 it's great except in slow traffic, after a few second of crimping it automaicly apply a set braking... it make the trailer jerk...

The factory one should be best, because it check how much brake pedal is aplied and brake acordingly , just need to set how much your trailer needs.

But I have to admit, the boost mode on the P3 is great

You have too much boost for the size of trailer being towed. Dial down the boost and the jerk may go away.

Another thing that can cause jurk is too much play in the hitch system.

In heavy traffic...just touch your TV brake pedal enough to turn on the brake lights...that is what the P2/P3 senses for it's turn on...and do NOT go any farther to start TV braking

That will have the P2/P3 turn on the trailer brakes...using whatever presets you have dialed in

Then just keep your foot there without setting the TV brakes and the accelerometer will continue to keep the trailer brakes on

Now, it gotta slam on the brakes...ditto the above, but now you have the TV brakes in that game and the accelerometer will will send even more voltage to the trailer brakes

My P3 keeps the trailer leading and does NOT jerk, but IMHO, the GM brake pedal switch is extremely sensitive to movement and tells my P3 to turn on way before the TV MC ever gets PSI

On OEM IBC's...they will NOT turn on the IBC as soon as my P3...unless they too have a TV brake pedal switch sensor...and...that, that pedal switch is as sensitive as GM's

I have the P3 it's great except in slow traffic, after a few second of crimping it automaicly apply a set braking... it make the trailer jerk...

The factory one should be best, because it check how much brake pedal is aplied and brake acordingly , just need to set how much your trailer needs.

But I have to admit, the boost mode on the P3 is great