Finally got my diesel

Well, I agree that the electronic sway control is reactive. It will take over when the sway bar is over taxed. It only takes a second to install it. The owner's manual says that the wd is optional but I like the idea of using it to help control porpoising. (Wow, how do you spell it.) I currently "hang three" so I will hang two. The truck hitch is a class five and my utility head is well in range for my trailer, so no concerns there. I did go to the other thread for more info. If I had my fifth wheel, this whole discussion would be moot. Thanks and a special thanks to those with the same set up.

There is no way I would trust a reactionary control system like that!! I don't want the sway to start. I sure as heck don't want it to start before the trailer starts to control!!

I think I would keep using the sway control I had.
Chris

The electronic sway control uses braking to attempt to stop sway. I would still use a proper trailer sway control to prevent the trailer sway in the first place.

Ken

Turtle n Peeps wrote:
Here's what I do and I also have a diesel and a light trailer much like yours.

I put the WD bars on but I just cinch them up by hand. I don't want any weight transfer because of the heavy diesel up front. This will take some of the porpoising out of my truck on wavy roads. It will also give more even weight distribution of the TV which is good for handling. It works for me.

I also recommend you replace your shocks on you truck. I did and it made a world of difference.

X2, my experience exactly when I bought my diesel last April.

http://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/28483958.cfm

There is another current thread asking the same question (link posted above).
Things to keep in mind are state laws and law suits. We have been reading up on state laws and all I will say is there are a lot them to be aware of while towing.

Here's what I do and I also have a diesel and a light trailer much like yours.

I put the WD bars on but I just cinch them up by hand. I don't want any weight transfer because of the heavy diesel up front. This will take some of the porpoising out of my truck on wavy roads. It will also give more even weight distribution of the TV which is good for handling. It works for me.

I also recommend you replace your shocks on you truck. I did and it made a world of difference.

csamayfield55 wrote:


BTW, explain that electronic sway control? I don't understand how anything on a truck can help the sway of a trailer.

Chris

Chris, vehicles now a days now have a accelerometer pack that among other things measures yaw which is rotation of the vehicle around a center point that goes through the center of the vehicle when viewed from above. When a trailer begins to sway the sensors in the pack will sense this and the abs system will apply individual rear wheel to counteract the sway.

Found the answer for the wd bars...if the gtw of the trailer is more than 50 percent of the gvwr of the two vehicle's then the weight distribution should me used. I will need to use them. As far as the sway control I think the potential of constant braking of the trailer is a good point. The Lee ironic sway control uses the stabitrak system and it's yaw sensor to sense whether the driver's intended yaw is the same as the actual yaw of the vehicle. If the system senses sway it applies trailer brakes and reduces engine speed. I was hoping that others had actual experience. Thanks for the discussion.

Check the hitch ratings.

Most say something like 5,000 pound 'deadweight' and 500 pound max without WD bars. And 10,000 - 1,000 hitch weight with the WD bars.

So you will have much more weight rating with the bars on. And I also think that your 650 pound estimate is way off. Only taking it to a scale will give the real numbers. Once you get the total front and rear axle weights with the WD bars loose, then drop the trailer in the parking lot, and check the truck weight alone. This will give you a new exact weight of what is on the truck. You might have as much as 1,000 pounds on the hitch, if there is a forward fresh water tank that is full.

As for fifth wheel selections and a 2500 series truck, you might be limited to the smaller and lighter fifth wheels. The only large fifth wheels that I know of that are towable and still under 2,000 pounds hitch weight would be the Glendale RV Titanium series trailers, and they are not in production anymore.

Yes you will enjoy towing a fifth wheel more than the travel trailer, especially in high wind conditions.

AS for sway control, I would keep using it. The way the 'electronic' sway control works is applying the trailer brakes to bring it back inline with the truck. So who wants the trailer brakes applied constantly to keep the trailer stable? This will reduce gas mileage. . . .

Have fun camping!

Fred.

Look at the rating on your hitch. It will not be rated nearly as high as you think with weight carrying. Can you haul it without the weight bars?? Probably. Should you since you have the correct equipment?? No, use the right tools for the job!

My TV is a 1 ton Dodge with airbags and I have hauled over 10K on the hitch by itself. It did just fine but I would never haul my camper that way for any distance.

BTW, explain that electronic sway control? I don't understand how anything on a truck can help the sway of a trailer.

Chris