Forum Discussion

ER_Alaska's avatar
ER_Alaska
Explorer
Jun 12, 2014

First Post - about electrical system of course

I've been looking all over the web and this site for the answer to my question, but just can't seem to find it. Lots of helpful people on this forum, so maybe you can help. Thanks in advance.

I've been out twice in my new-to-me 2004 23.5-foot R Vision Trail-Lite. After returning home one weekend and after having had the trailer plugged in to my house for a couple of days I pushed the button on the control panel that lets you check the battery condition. It showed 1 out of 4 lights. The lights in the trailer were dim, and the water pump ran slowly. Turns out the battery was very low and after having it checked out it turns out a cell was dead. What I don't understand is this - with the trailer plugged in and a low battery connected, why were the lights dim? And when I removed the battery and kept the trailer plugged in, the lights were bright (and the control panel showed 4/4 lights lit)? When the trailer is plugged in and it (converter I assume) detects that a battery is present, does the power for 12V DC for lights, etc. come from the battery only, or does it come from the house or generator via the converter? If power comes from the battery only when the trailer is plugged in and the converter is charging the battery, then could you draw amps from the battery faster than the converter charges the battery? Or at least draw amps from the battery fast enough that it takes longer for the converter to bring up the charge on the battery.
  • I'll post the converter type later today. That's Tonight for all of you Lower 48rs!
  • ER Alaska wrote:
    That makes sense to me. So if I'm plugged in and the converter is charging the battery, if at the same time I have lots of lights and other DC things on, it will take longer to charge the battery because less of the power coming from the house is able to go toward charging the battery? I have to learn quickly about managing power especially because there's room only for one battery on the TT and nothing larger than a group 24. I bought a generator to use to charge the battery when we're camping. Few places that we'll be going to here in AK have plug-ins available. Thanks.


    Well, it's gets a little more involved regarding how long it will take the convertor to charge the battery. Your reasoning is basically solid that if you are using some of the converter output to run lights, then less is available to charge the battery. But, in reality, the length of time to recharge the battery is probably going to be effected to a greater extent by, shall we say the "quality" and model of the converter. A good three or four stage progressive dynamics converter is likely gonna serve you better than the cheap wyfco that I have in my camper.

    And by the way, I should have said earlier, welcome to the forum !

    EDIT: Roy beat me to it in the typing contest ! He refers to the "PD" brand.....that is what I was saying as well.
  • RoyB's avatar
    RoyB
    Explorer II
    I would check to see what converter/charger you have on your trailer. Being a 2004 model it probably has a single stage charger. If you would change the converter/charger out for a multi-stage smart mode charger it might take care of your battery better when on shore power.

    Post the model number and the guys on here will recommend a good model for you to purchase. I use the PD9200 series converter/charger here...

    Roy Ken
  • That makes sense to me. So if I'm plugged in and the converter is charging the battery, if at the same time I have lots of lights and other DC things on, it will take longer to charge the battery because less of the power coming from the house is able to go toward charging the battery? I have to learn quickly about managing power especially because there's room only for one battery on the TT and nothing larger than a group 24. I bought a generator to use to charge the battery when we're camping. Few places that we'll be going to here in AK have plug-ins available. Thanks.
  • gmw photos wrote:
    When the faulty battery was still in the circuit, it was sucking much of the power from the converter, leaving little to run the lights or other 12V items.
    When you removed the battery, the full output of the converter was available to power lights, etc, so they were full bright.
    A new battery will fix you up most likely.


    Pretty much sums it up.......
  • When the faulty battery was still in the circuit, it was sucking much of the power from the converter, leaving little to run the lights or other 12V items.
    When you removed the battery, the full output of the converter was available to power lights, etc, so they were full bright.
    A new battery will fix you up most likely.