Congrats on a fun first trip :-) After our 1st few trips we noticed we kept getting water on the floor by kitchen slide and for the life of me I couldn't figure out why. It would only happen just after opening or closing the slide. Then one day I theorized that when the kitchen slide moves one of the water lines is being bent or angled just enough to make it leak at a connection point. Sounds a little crazy I know but now I always make sure I only open / close slide when water is disconnected and system is drained (low point drains). Haven't had water on the floor in months (knock on wood).
Your questions:
1) what do you all do for mattresses, my lord that thing is so uncomforatable.
-Purchased a Sealy Posturepedic for our bed and toppers for the bunks.
2) Stabilizers, I have tt perfectly level and stabilizers down on cinder bocks, but thing still moves around a lot.
-Someone else here posted this so I can't take credit but this is the method I use, I just can't find the original post. X-chocks would help too but my wheels are too far apart. This method has worked well and here are the jacks I purchased.
JacksMethod:
The whole "SECRET" here is in the where and how you put and set these 4 jack stands. You might have to do a little experimenting based on the specifics of your trailer and it's living layout and who uses it. The first secret is to get the support much closer to the suspension points and I have found based on our 31'+ TT that about 4 to 6 ft in front and to the rear of each axle is a good target area. The second just as important step is in how you set these jack stands up. This is where that electric tongue jack is a life saver. You need to start with the trailer about 1" down by the tongue and put the rear jack stand in and "SNUG THEM UP" hand tight. Then you raise the tongue of the trailer about 2" "TONGUE HIGH" and put in the front jack stands and again "SNUG THEM UP" hand tight. Then you lower the tongue till all weight is off and then raise it again to just get a good pressure on it. Some will caution about "tweaking" the frame when putting pressure on these jack stands, but IMO that just is not an issue since we are only now talking about most support being across a span of between 8 and 12 ft and to the close to 30' if trying to support the entire span of the trailer on the existing stabilizer jacks. Also, you're not "LIFTING" the wheels off the ground you just need to get a real good upward force on the frame at those points. I actually measured the force when I dialed in my new system with my Sherline tongue scale and had around 400lbs of force on each jackstand. Now if once you find the best new locations for these jackstands you can remove and discard the old front jacks and depending on how well the overall stability is from movement in the rear of the trailer you might be able to also remove those rear stab jacks or if needed deploy them to just take out the "FRAME FLEX" component from that 10' or so span between your new rear jack stands and the actual rear of the trailer. As a consideration you might even store the removed jacks and put them back on when you get rid of the trailer so the next clueless owner won't feel he's not getting what is generally installed on trailers now days.
3) Tv, we get about 26 channels at site, but honestly they pretty much suck, what is everyone doing?
-My wife says 'we don't go camping to watch TV' but someday when she lets me I'm getting a Dish and bringing a DVR from home ;)