Fiver TV - 2002 F-350 Lariat 7.3L Diesel Dually

The cab does not have to come off to pull the engine. I have done (2) 7.3's in my '02 and (1) 6.0 in my '06. Pulling the cab often results in unwanted popping and other noises from the cab mounts.

If I had another 7.3L I would definately have DP-Tuner do the tunes (He does a real nice decel tune which uses the EBPV as a brake)as well as a 38R and an adrenaline pump from Dieselsite. Throw some water injection in and you are set.

MikeSD wrote:
Great truck, great engine.

Before you commit to it, crawl underneath and look at the oil pan to ensure that it is not badly rusted or corroded.

To replace the oil pan on these trucks, you have to pull the motor.

Yes, and to pull the motor you have to remove the cab from the frame. Truckasaurus had a leaking oil pan when I got it. The deep part of the sump was rotted through. I repaired it with a kit from Damian Diesel for less than $300 and it has been bulletproof ever since. Much better than "Step 1: Remove cab..."

You can see a video of the procedure here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=slnFCb46IO8

Love my 02 7.3 f350... payload is not as high as I would like I can say though I have had 3100 lbs in the bed and truck is basically level even though im 700lbs over gvwr. I never felt the 3100lbs ... I have also towed around 15k not a problem jut leave room for braking. Buy it!

Since I bought it new 17 years ago, my 96 F250 Ford 7.3 diesel has proven to be a very capable truck for my 15,000 pounds of combined towing weight.

No, I don't race with anyone on the highway and am happy to hang back with the heavy truckers up and down the mountain grades.

The 14 mpg average my rig achieves while towing is a match for just about any RV on the road. Good mileage has gotten more important to me in the past few years since the cost of diesel has risen into the $4 per gallon area.

Additionally, exceptional reliability and durability has grown more important to me as shop rates have broken into the $100-per-hour arena and new rigs have exceeded the $50,000 purchase cost and technology has gotten so complicated that I'd be afraid to look under the hood of a new model with a wrench in my hand.

Yep, if nobody wants my old F250 after I'm done, just drain the fuel tanks and bury me in the old gal and let the archaelogists wonder what the heck did he have in mind.

I have one which I bought new in 2001. The most dependable vehicle I have owned, just do the proper maintenance. Mine has a Hypertek program which has 3 settings with #3 providing the most power. I run mine in #2 all the time and have zero problems. That being said, there are times I wish there was more power while towing in the hills. The engine makes a lot of noise if you compare to the newer Ford trucks. You will need an exhaust brake when traveling in the mountains.
Good luck.

My 2000 F250 7.3 PowerStroke is a great diesel with 148k miles on it.

In the 4R100 transmission I have run AMSOIL and do not have the stiff 2-3 transition problem. I have dual transmission coolers and the transmission fluid and filter has been changed at 50k intervals so I am coming up on one in 2k. I have had one mechanic tell me this was over kill but small cost and transmission still towing. Engine oil and filter at 6000 mile intervals and fuel filter every third oil change. Air filters as needed.

It has been chipped since 2004 (with what I was told was a Ford approved chip kit at the time) and has never had a problem. I do not think it is as hot of performance as some out there but it does have the power and torque to haul our 18000# setup. The Ford service department has never said a thing when I have had it in for recall work and service.

On the older 7.3s with the standard green radiator fluid you need to add the anti cavitation additive. The 99 thru 2001 with the "green" coolant need the VC8/FW 16/FW15/DCA4 SCA to prevent cavitation damage and I would verify that this has been done for the life of the vehicle.

Since the low sulfur mandate I also add a cetane booster and injector lubricant/cleaner.

Have the Ravelco chip in the truck to prevent the bandits we have around here from taking it for a ride south.

No plans on trading or upgrading any time soon.

Thanks so much for all your input, it has been helpful. I have learned that truck loyalty is like gang loyalty, except even tougher! I have an offer on this truck
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/LARIAT-7-3-/271207216138?_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2648&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&forcev4exp=true

Currently, it is in the bay of a good Ford Service department getting poked and prodded. My price of $25K for this truck with only 30K miles on it since 2004 is perfect for me.

I know that there are alot of pros and cons but I think for me, it is a no brainer. Thanks so much for all your input.

Great truck, great engine.

Before you commit to it, crawl underneath and look at the oil pan to ensure that it is not badly rusted or corroded.

To replace the oil pan on these trucks, you have to pull the motor.

Also, you might try to determine whether or not the ball joints are in good shape or need replaced. That can cost you a bit to have done.


Yes, it's older technology. Yes, the newer trucks make more power. However.....there's a reason so few of the 7.3's that are in good shape are on the used market.

ford-trucks.com (Ford Truck Enthusiasts) is a great place to go with any questions if you buy the truck. Lots of very knowledgeable people on there that can help you out, and have been there before.

TxTiger wrote:
. It's not that it won't pull it, and there is little doubt it can actually handle the weight, but legally you will be over the truck's payload

At the risk of opening a big old can of worms, running over GVW isn't a legal issue.

Not the wisest thing to do, but not "illegal" per se.

My take -- solid engine, somewhat underpowered by current standards, questionable transmission that WILL need repairs or replacement if you're towing a lot with it.

Sounds like your mech is a big 7.3 fan, and there is no issue with that. But this is still an 11 yr old truck w/ 11 yr old tech. I do not mean to commit heresy against the sacrosanct 7.3, but I don't think that the 7.3 is statistically more reliable than, say, an '06-07 LBZ Duramax or an '04-07 5.9 Cummins. But those have more power, and far better (and in the case of the LBZ, far, far better) transmissions, while still being "pre-emission."

Just some anecdotal evidence for what it is worth. 2 contractors on my street run several trucks for their businesses, and were both die-hard 7.3 fans for years. One got tired of replacing transmissions, bought himself an '09 Dodge Cummins a couple years back, and has since pretty much replaced his fleet with Dodge Cummins trucks. The other got tired of buying old 7.3's to keep his fleet current, finding problems, replacing transmissions, etc., so he finally broke down and bought a '12 RAM Cummins at the end of last year. They both kinda laugh at themselves now for dumping $$ into old 7.3's for years. FWIW.

Good luck!