Fridge operation when not level

Ralph Cramden wrote:
3 degrees side to side of the fridge. On a 30' long rig with the fridge backed up against the sidewall 3 degrees out would mean the rig is 18" higher on one end. Did anyone ever try sleeping, or even walking in a 30' rig that's 18" out of level front to back lol.

First time I actually did the math on my rig I quickly determined that if it's comfortable enough to camp in it's likely within the mfg specs.

“Also make sure when leveling you're setting the level on the inside of the freezer.”

I do that once on each RV, Vintage, to calibrate the easy to see outside level indicators.

ScottG wrote:
Can the ARP temp probe be installed through the rear cover or do you need to pull the ridge?

You may have to pull it a bit, just enough to open the flue cover, but it doesn't have to come out completely, just a few inches, at most.

I don't think it matters if you're plugged in or on propane. One piece of advise was- If it's close enough to level to be comfortable to live in, it's OK. We've followed that (our sites are usually not perfectly level) and so far our refrig. in 2 units over 15 years have functioned perfectly. If we park short term,( such as to have lunch) and it's really uncomfortably unlevel, I shut off the frig. until we resume. What is "comfortable" could vary a lot. However, we are pretty picky. If the doors fly open or shut, etc. we would use our leveler blocks. Error on the side of caution.

Can the ARP temp probe be installed through the rear cover or do you need to pull the ridge?

Chris Bryant wrote:
Do yourself a favor and install an ARP Control on your refrigerator, and you won't have to worry about it.

Agree 1000% and it should be installed along with the frig initially.

Larry

leatherhead612 wrote:
Seems to be cooling fine, its down to 46 degrees and dropping.

Newer RVs should be fine as long as it's level enough to live in. I make a point of being as level as possible. New fridges are expensive and a hassle.

SoundGuy wrote:

Lynnmor wrote:
It is not about operating so much, it is about destroying the cooling system. It must be within 3 degrees side to side and 6 degrees front to back.

That assumes the fridge is mounted along one side of the trailer ... mine isn't, it sits along the rear wall of the trailer.

I wasn't assuming anything, I was talking about the refrigerator.

If one has a smartphone, a free level app is available to display degrees.

Don't use refrigerator shelves to level an RV, use the frame under the RV. The cooling coils are screwed to the rear of the refrigerator case. If you are concerned about how level the refrigerator might be, simply check the side and front of the case.

Lynnmor wrote:
It is not about operating so much, it is about destroying the cooling system. It must be within 3 degrees side to side and 6 degrees front to back.

That assumes the fridge is mounted along one side of the trailer ... mine isn't, it sits along the rear wall of the trailer. My solution is simple - I only run the fridge when the trailer is level front-to-back and side-to-side, even turn it off when we arrive at the campground and leave it off until I'm parked & leveled on-site. When returning home I turn it off when I pull up to the house, before I begin the process of parking on our noticeably sloped driveway. If we're traveling and stop midday for awhile I'll also turn the fridge off until we're ready to leave. It may be overkill but it's a technique that's worked well for me for years with several different fridges in several different trailers - no problems at all. :B

3 degrees side to side of the fridge. On a 30' long rig with the fridge backed up against the sidewall 3 degrees out would mean the rig is 18" higher on one end. Did anyone ever try sleeping, or even walking in a 30' rig that's 18" out of level front to back lol.