Furnace not working first time out.

So, one of the few things that the dealer's service dept. touched, the thermostat, was rendered non-functional.

I'm thinking your take on warranty repair is spot on.

One suggestion: if you don't already have one, buy an inexpensive hand-held meter so future electrical diagnosis and repair is an easy event.

I bypassed the thermostat and the heater kicked on. I purchased a Honeywell programmable model RTH2300/RTH221 for replacement. Wired it in and the furnace fired right up. Thanks for the heads up on the smell. This is my first new trailer and I wouldn't have known to "burn it in" before taking it out. Ready for the weekend. Thanks again

I bypassed the thermostat and the heater kicked on. I purchased a Honeywell programmable model RTH2300/RTH221 for replacement. Not sure of the wiring. I am going to storage to match wiring diagram of stock unit (2 wires) with new unit (multiple terminals). Has anyone done this type of replacement and can help? Thanks

Hello there, first try to perform the steps which Old-Biscuit has mentioned above if the furnace still not works, then better you call a professional technician for inspection. Last month I was also having issues with my commercial furnace then my friend recommended me to call heating repair NJ technician for inspection and repair. After repair my furnace was working efficiently.

bob213 wrote:
If this is the first time you are going to use it and you do manage to get it to run, keep in mind that it is going to stink. You will be burning off the oils from production and you will probably set off your smoke alarms. Open some windows just in case. Best place for first run is in your driveway.
Good luck getting it going.

Thanks. I'll want to get that out of the way before hand.

Thanks!
When I remove the t-stat to check for loose wire I will bypass it like you said. It's funny you mentioned making sure the unit is straight. That is one ting I had them fix after walk through. It was mounted crooked on the wall. Could be a loose wire from them working on it. I like the digital one you showed. Will definitely go that way if it's bad. Maybe do it anyway once I get the furnace working. Thanks! This is my 5th RV and I still have a lot to learn!

If your thermostat is like the one you pictured then it only controls heat. I would figure out how to open the thermostat and then unscrew it off the wall. Disconnect one of the two wires and touch it to the other wire. If the furnace comes on throw the cheap thermostat in the trash. Then drive over to Walmart and pick up a $25 digital thermostat and we'll help you wire it in. It will work better than the current one. It will be done way faster than warranty for another cheap mediocre factory stat. And it will be something cool that you installed yourself.

I installed mine a few years ago and I swear, out of the 30 minutes it took to install it, 20 - 25 minutes were spent making sure the mounting holes were level.

The link is the one I used but most of them will work. You just want to make sure it has a battery backup as the batteries are what is going to power the electronics.

Link

mrbreeze az wrote:

dodge guy wrote:
Sounds good. I can't imagine it would take that long for parts on a new unit. Should be less than a week to see parts, unless it is a new model furnace. In the meantime carry a small electric/ceramic heater with you and run he A/C fan to circulate the heat. That's what I do when it gets cold! One 30 lb LP tank lasts me almost 2 years.

The trip in November is with no hookups although the one in December is with power. The ceramic heater is a good option if it is still out of commission come December. Thanks
I agree on the parts timing. The service tech explained it that the dealer makes a claim to the manufacturer and the manufacturer does not stock parts for warranty. The manufacturer has to order from the supplier of the particular unit(in this case Suburban). The supplier sends part to manufacturer who sends it to the dealer. The guy said he has been doing this since the seventies and the process has not improved. I really am hoping for a loose wire!

With any luck that's all it is.
I bought a new Cherokee in 05 and the water heater didn`t work on 110V. after looking around I found they forgot to plug the unit in. the outlet was behind the water heater so it couldn't be seen. I felt around and found the plug laying there. plugged it in and all was well.

turbojimmy wrote:

Wild Card wrote:
simple easy test is there is 2 wires from stat to furnace. wire goes up to stat, makes circuit on call for heat then sends back to furnace. Check for 24v from stat. You can actually wire nut those wires together to bypass stat. if you have 24 v feeding furnace it has a board or other issue in the furnace.

Has to be 12V.

Yep..sorry I do HVAC for a living and am just used to saying 24v as that's the control voltage in res equipment.

dodge guy wrote:
Sounds good. I can't imagine it would take that long for parts on a new unit. Should be less than a week to see parts, unless it is a new model furnace. In the meantime carry a small electric/ceramic heater with you and run he A/C fan to circulate the heat. That's what I do when it gets cold! One 30 lb LP tank lasts me almost 2 years.

The trip in November is with no hookups although the one in December is with power. The ceramic heater is a good option if it is still out of commission come December. Thanks
I agree on the parts timing. The service tech explained it that the dealer makes a claim to the manufacturer and the manufacturer does not stock parts for warranty. The manufacturer has to order from the supplier of the particular unit(in this case Suburban). The supplier sends part to manufacturer who sends it to the dealer. The guy said he has been doing this since the seventies and the process has not improved. I really am hoping for a loose wire!