Generator wattage

I think you’ll need a Kill-a-Watt meter or similar to know for sure, but most people use 2000 watt generators and the builtins are usually 2500 watts.

Are you trying to run the fridge on electric? That could be 300-400 watts. The converter charger can be a large draw. If it is drawing 40 amps that's 500 watts. A 1000 watt generator probably can comfortably deliver in the 800 watt range for constant duty.

A 2000 watt generator would be a better size for the loads you mention.

1000 will do fine until the battery gets low. 1000 is good for 30 to 40 amps into the battery and cut that by about 1/3rd if running the 350 watt fridge. If your converter is a typical 55 amps it will overload your generator with a low battery. BTW that 1000 is probably the surge good for 10 to 30 minutes then 900.

So keep the fridge set to propane and see where that goes. If you like the small 1000 you can get a smaller converter. Otherwise you are looking for 2000.

If you want to go deeper we can talk about power factor and the difference between wattage and the actual rating in VA.

jimh425 wrote:
I think you’ll need a Kill-a-Watt meter or similar to know for sure, but most people use 2000 watt generators and the builtins are usually 2500 watts.

X2 You're limited to 8A which is easy to exceed. Something else may be coming on that you're not aware of like HW?

Run the fridge on DC? Run it on propane and that 1000 should easily handle everything you described. A 2200 should run the AC. I would never run my fridge on anything besides propane when camped unless I was hooked up to a shoreline in a campground.

Still sorting this camper out. I have about 30 days before I have to return this generator. I tried to run my shop vac too which overloaded the generator.

It seems I ought to look for a 2000 watt generator to replace this one with as this must be too lite.

The fridge needs to be sorted out. It runs fine on shore power. When I hit the gas switch, it doesn't illuminate to indicate gas is going to the unit. I would like to get it working and that is on the list.

It's a norcold 442 I believe and is a 2 way fridge.

silverbullet555 wrote:
Still sorting this camper out. I have about 30 days before I have to return this generator. I tried to run my shop vac too which overloaded the generator.

It seems I ought to look for a 2000 watt generator to replace this one with as this must be too lite.

The fridge needs to be sorted out. It runs fine on shore power. When I hit the gas switch, it doesn't illuminate to indicate gas is going to the unit. I would like to get it working and that is on the list.

It's a norcold 442 I believe and is a 2 way fridge.

If your trying to run gas while hooked to shore power you must turn the AUTO switch OFF. If Auto is on the fridge will always connect to shore power if it is available.

silverbullet555 wrote:
Still sorting this camper out. I have about 30 days before I have to return this generator. I tried to run my shop vac too which overloaded the generator.

It seems I ought to look for a 2000 watt generator to replace this one with as this must be too lite.

The fridge needs to be sorted out. It runs fine on shore power. When I hit the gas switch, it doesn't illuminate to indicate gas is going to the unit. I would like to get it working and that is on the list.

It's a norcold 442 I believe and is a 2 way fridge.

Yeah, the 1000w units are really limiting. Really they are typically only good for about 750-800w. The 1000w is a rating for a few seconds/minutes to get loads started. For continuous output, it's 20-25% lower.

If you have the option to return it and get a 2000w unit that would be better. If you ever want to run the air/con, jump up to around 3000w unit.

My camper has a built in Generac 3600 LP generator, and I also carry a Yamaha EF1000iS. The Yamaha is used about 95% of the time, but I do have to manage the power loads when I’m using it.

Running the fridge in AC or DC mode, and the battery charger when it’s in full 45 amp mode at the same time is more than any 1000 watt generator can handle. Once the charger amps are down to the point that the generator throttles back, then I can put the fridge back on AC if I want.

My Yamaha 1000, and the comparable Honda 1000 have a running wattage rating of 900 watts, and I’ve verified mine will do it many times. I’d bet your 1000 watt generator running watts rating is more like 800.

You will probably be happier with a 2000-2200 watt unit if you are going to be regularly lifting it in and out of wherever you store it. A 3KW unit is usually well over 100 lbs, vs about 50 lbs for a 2KW. For truck camper use, Unless you never have to lift the 3KW, I would rather parallel two smaller units, than deal with one bigger unit. That’s just asking for back troubles, for me.

:):)

I've used a 1000W Yamaha for charging my camper battery for years. Just set the fridge on GAS before hooking it up.

- Mark0.