Going up hills

valhalla360 wrote:


I suspect it was a typo and he meant holding in "higher" gears.

Again, gas engines rev high to make power. As long as your other gauges look fine, no worries letting it rev to get up a grade.

When it comes time to replace the truck, if you are still towing the same trailer, look for a lower rear end and/or upgrade the motor and it will be a little quitter.

I was thinking it was a typo too.

Not all gas engines rev to make power. Gasoline turbocharged engines like the Ford Ecoboost and long stroke engines like the old straight sixes did not need to be reved so high to pull a trailer. I will agree that most short stroke naturally aspirated gas engines need to be revved high when pulling though.

He should be fine revving the engine. It probably will easily last 5 years or more taking that abuse on a regular basis and the fluid changed under the severe interval. I would just not expect it to last as long as one that is not reving as high so often.

valhalla360 wrote:

ShinerBock wrote:

dodge guy wrote:


We're not talking all the time, only when climbing a hill. If it holds the lower gears on the flats then all is good!

If he is holding low gears on flats at highways speeds, then he would be in the higher rpms.

I suspect it was a typo and he meant holding in "higher" gears.

Again, gas engines rev high to make power. As long as your other gauges look fine, no worries letting it rev to get up a grade.

When it comes time to replace the truck, if you are still towing the same trailer, look for a lower rear end and/or upgrade the motor and it will be a little quitter.

Yes, quick typing and not proofreading my post! I meant higher gears.

ShinerBock wrote:

dodge guy wrote:


We're not talking all the time, only when climbing a hill. If it holds the lower gears on the flats then all is good!

If he is holding low gears on flats at highways speeds, then he would be in the higher rpms.

I suspect it was a typo and he meant holding in "higher" gears.

Again, gas engines rev high to make power. As long as your other gauges look fine, no worries letting it rev to get up a grade.

When it comes time to replace the truck, if you are still towing the same trailer, look for a lower rear end and/or upgrade the motor and it will be a little quitter.

BenK can be a little verbose, especially for us laymen. But in this case, he nailed it. :)

I am no expert in RV's, however I do know how to turn a wrench and have been a back yard mechanic for 40 years. I live in Edmonds, WA. If you need any help or just someone to ask questions, I would be proud to help a retired teacher. I have the utmost respect for teachers. Teachers taught me how to read, write and do math so I could figure out how to weight a trailer. Don't hesitate to ask questions.

farmer's daughter wrote:
I'm new at rv-ing. Just bought a 24' Forest River EVO TT;


I have a 2012 Silverado 1500 4WD Crew Cab short box.

This has the 6 speed automatic, so a good thing

It's gear ratios are more suited for towing than the old 4 speed.

Type: six-speed automatic

Gear ratios (:1):

First: 4.03

Second: 2.36

Third: 1.53

Fourth: 1.15

Fifth: 0.85

Sixth: 0.67

Reverse: 3.06

Final drive ratio
(std. & avail.): 3.08, 3.23 or 3.42; 3.73 with Max Trailering Package

It has the tow package, Model K10543, 3.08 gear ratio, 5.3L V8. I I'm getting air bags installed on the truck tomorrow.

Note that this will NOT increase the ratings...just help level the
TV when loaded

Since 3.08 diff ratio, you do NOT have the Max Tow package. The
3.08 is a MPG ratio and is not a good one for towing, even with the
6 speed automatic. Consider changing that out, but with a 4x4, double
the cost, as the front diff also has to change...if you decide to
do this

Question? When I go up a grade, the engine gets loud and the rpm's jump up to about 4,000 before backing back down to 2-3. Should I be shifting down from drive to the next lower gear?

You have an "AUTOMATIC" and am assuming with the 'tow package' your
TV has the "Tow/Haul" button...use it, as it tells the computer systems
that it is hauling/towing.

So it will shift accordingly to protect itself.

You do NOT have to manually shift it at all, just engage the "Tow/Haul"
button and leave it to the 'automatic'

It will shift if it needs to and there is also a computer preset that
will protect your engine from over rev'ing

I don't have anyone to ask. (I'm a 63 yr old teacher).

Why I'm here on these forums...to help folks. I'm 68 and retired
after over 4 decades in the tech sector. Am a wrench/gear-head/boy-racer
since my first dealings with autos in my teens

Also, I am so confused by all the GVWR's/etc. My trlr dry weight is 5686, gross wt 7750. My truck was missing the sticker which told exactly what all it has, and in looking at the owner's manual it gives dozens of models. I finally found the model K10543 but still am not sure if I'm trying to tow too heavy of a load. A little late, now. The dealership assured me that it met the specs.

Here is the link to the GM Brochure with the specifications that will
help you in this regard:

GM 2012 Silverado brochure

Good that this has the GCWR and here are the acronyms broken down:'


GVWR........Gross Vehicle Weight Rating
GCWR........Gross Combined Weight Rating (both TV and trailer's ACTUAL WEIGHT)
GAWR........Gross Axle Weight Rating

Note that the above has an 'R' and many either do not understand what
'rating' means, or do not believe it matters...but my opinion (having
been on the OEM side writing specifications, running product teams,
management of departments, etc) understand that it is the contract
from the OEM to you and the regulatory agencies that their product will
meet those ratings...within the bounds of the agency requirements

Forget about some of the brochure ratings, as they are derived from
'curb' and 'dry' (stripper models) that is misleading, but folks
thing absolute (in all cases) numbers. Depends on what options, after
market stuff and what is loaded onto/into

Here is the generic formula for GCWR >= TV + trailer + hitch +cargo

>= greater than , or equal to

Post back if you need more info...best to go out and weigh everything
ready go go...axle by axle...then post back here

a grade might be different than a hill. just depends. If it's really a hill then 4000 ok but every time you hit a little "grade" seems like it will be 4000 rpm most of the time. If you're not flat or going down hill you're on a grade.

dodge guy wrote:


We're not talking all the time, only when climbing a hill. If it holds the lower gears on the flats then all is good!

If he is holding low gears on flats at highways speeds, then he would be in the higher rpms.

ShinerBock wrote:
I would have to disagree a bit. Reving at 4,000 rpm all the time will cause parts to wear faster along with fluids needing to be changed sooner. Will it happen in the next 100k miles? Maybe not, but an engine that spends most of its time at lower rpms will last longer than one that spends most of its time at higher rpm. This is why almost all manufacturers recommends engines that are in constant high revs have their fluids changed sooner under the "severe" schedule versus the normal fluid change intervals.

This is why page 11-2 of your very own owners manual for your 2012 truck states:

"The Additional Required Services ?
Severe are for vehicles that are:
. Mainly driven in hilly or
mountainous terrain.
. Frequently towing a trailer.
. Used for high speed or
competitive driving.
. Used for taxi, police, or delivery
service.
Refer to the information in the
Maintenance Schedule Additional
Required Services ? Severe chart."

We're not talking all the time, only when climbing a hill. If it holds the lower gears on the flats then all is good!

I would have to disagree a bit. Reving at 4,000 rpm all the time will cause parts to wear faster along with fluids needing to be changed sooner. Will it happen in the next 100k miles? Maybe not, but an engine that spends most of its time at lower rpms will last longer than one that spends most of its time at higher rpm. This is why almost all manufacturers recommends engines that are in constant high revs have their fluids changed sooner under the "severe" schedule versus the normal fluid change intervals.

This is why page 11-2 of your very own owners manual for your 2012 truck states:

"The Additional Required Services ?
Severe are for vehicles that are:
. Mainly driven in hilly or
mountainous terrain.
. Frequently towing a trailer.
. Used for high speed or
competitive driving.
. Used for taxi, police, or delivery
service.
Refer to the information in the
Maintenance Schedule Additional
Required Services ? Severe chart."