Got the 100K miles blues, F-150

ib516 wrote:
Sometimes - that's best. I know for those of us that have the tools, knowledge, and ability to do the work ourselves - that decision isn't easy, but the stress just isn't worth it sometimes.

Am now older and lacking (some times...too many times) the 'ability'
and the 'want2' to do it myself

Sub just back from SMOG and new starter (reduction gear head). Not too
long ago, I'd have jumped down there to change the starter (2 main
bolts, one positive bolt and a control wire plug).

Bad back and bad neck had me hesitating...

Sometimes - that's best. I know for those of us that have the tools, knowledge, and ability to do the work ourselves - that decision isn't easy, but the stress just isn't worth it sometimes.

I've been studying some vids on the repair and I've decided to let the garage do it. Too much to tackle without a garage and backup vehicle. Another week of rain like this week and I'm screwed. Just gonna bite the bullet this time.

I'm considering doing it myself. If it ever stops raining long enough I can get out there and take a look-see. I'm no stranger to removing broken studs. Even in tough places. Just not sure if I want that level of aggravation again after doing my plugs (although, it did turn out pretty well in the end). The leak is definately at the head surface. The mechanic at the Ford dealer pointed it out clearly.

It was explained to me you have to take a bunch of stuff out of the way to get at it, so I'm sure that's where the labor comes in. My other driver is a motorcycle and it's currently down too, so having an extra vehicle to drive is problematic currently. The more toys you have, the more stuff you have to fix. Simple equation.

Hope to get a look at it tomorrow and make a decide on it. Thanks for all the input guys.

lbrjet wrote:
I just had my right side done(covered under the ESP plan) at 61K miles. Took 1 1/2 days. They have to completely remove the shock and mount and other things just to get to the right side manifold. They broke bolts and had to re-tap new holes. The service writer explained that it is simply a very bad design on the right side of the 5.4L. Left side is much easier to get to.

It's making $800 at the shop sound like a pretty good deal !

I just had my right side done(covered under the ESP plan) at 61K miles. Took 1 1/2 days. They have to completely remove the shock and mount and other things just to get to the right side manifold. They broke bolts and had to re-tap new holes. The service writer explained that it is simply a very bad design on the right side of the 5.4L. Left side is much easier to get to.

Been through most of the listed problems on numerous headers in many of
my old vehicles and buddies vehicles...

First, you HAVE to have it done soon...as the very hot exhaust gases
running out of that leak WILL erode the metal. If the leak is on the
exhaust side...not so bad...but...if on the head side...might have to
remove the head and have it machined ('one' of worse cases)

You have enough miles on it to potentially have some of the studs or bolts
rusted and not come out.

If you break one, either easy out or remove the head for a trip to
the machine shop

Not trying to scare or be negative, but discussion with all potential
scenario's I can think of trying to help you make up your mind on how
to proceed

I've used double gaskets and only one lasted (not my vehicle, but
buddies) to fix one that had metal eroded by the gases

I'm not familiar with Fords, so just generic thoughts. Maybe visit
dome Ford boy racer sites

Easiest first...some times get lucky and it is just a loose nut/bolt

Get some high temp anti-seize and use it liberally

Most exhaust gaskets have metal layers and when you scrap off the old
gasket...be careful to not gouge the head or exhaust flange

The manifold will have doughnuts to the exhaust pipes (assume yours
do have them...check that out) and have new ones ready...in case

Make sure it is the gasket...cracked exhaust manifolds also behave
like this...some times

This is where I advise to buy OEM hardware. Have gone to grade 8 way
back in the day and they didn't make any difference. The heat will
de-temper them to become mud hen fasteners

For this kind of work, I had two 2x10 planks laid over the two fenders
(cushioned with foam/duct tape) and lay over the engine bay. Saves
my bad back

Consider removing the wheel well shield. Just a bunch of small sheetmetal
screws. Along with taking the wheel off...amazing how much room and
direct access that provides...sometimes...

Good luck!

If it is just a small crack in the manifold, smear some JB weld in it. I did this on an engine and it lasted for 50k miles.

Three things you need to do a job like this:

1. An extra vehicle to drive for the week or so that you work on the truck evenings and weekends between all the other stuff that needs getting done.

2. Broadband Internet access to surf the forums and watch YouTube videos on "how to".

3. A Harbor Freight store nearby for all those sockets and wrenches that you discover you need because of the odd size and location of fasteners.

Have you considered doing it yourself?

I think that the dealership is putting in a lot of shop time because they have had past problems with broken bolts that cause the job to eat up shop time. If you are very careful to move the bolt a little tight then loose, then tight again, you can get it moving without breaking the bolts.

Probably all you would need at this point is new gaskets, and then you can seal it again. No more leaks. You can also check with a local muffler shop, and see what they have to say. It might be a leaking exhaust system causing all that noise. I replaced the exhaust in my 15 year old 1975 F-350 and it became as quiet as my car! I loved that $800 cost! They put on a huge muffler, and went to a single 3" exhaust pipe for the 460" engine.

Good luck,

Fred.