Grind down Reese extension to 2"?

Would this work if you remove the clevis and use a pin to attach to the extension to transition between receiver and extension .

http://www.reeseprod.com/products/ball-mounts/specialty-ball-mounts/tow-strap-loop/Ft6J97!qk62OLeHlbMK8anVeFenSyl3i

The grinding will create a stress point to make the shaft weaker than just getting a 2" extension.
Get matching equipment.

I have found another place semi-close to me that sells 2" square, just like the other place it is in 24 ft sections but they might have one that has been cut already and will sell it cheaper, waiting for a call back.

I am still keeping an eye out for a class v hitch, if one pops up close enough for the right price I will still get that so I don't have to bastardize the reese.

There are hitches marked class V that are 2". My '06 F350 was.

From Drawtite web page:

Class V hitches are weight carrying (WC) and weight distributing (WD) hitches depending on the vehicle and hitch specifications.

Class V hitches used as weight carrying are rated up to 12,000 lbs. gross trailer weight (GTW) with a maximum trailer tongue weight (TW) of 1200 lbs.

Class V hitches used for weight distributing are rated up to 17,000 lbs. gross trailer weight (GTW) with a maximum trailer tongue weight (TW) of 1700 lbs.

Your ball mount and hitch ball need to both be rated for Class V to safely tow these weight loads. To use this class of hitch for weight distribution requires a weight distribution system.

A Class V hitch has a 2-1/2" square receiver opening.

Class V hitches attach to the vehicle frame only.

I just happened to have the reese towbeast sitting in the garage I took it off my 2007 3500 ram when I traded it in. The new truck comes with a class V hitch from the factory.I tried selling it for almost nothing and not one call so that tells you there is no demand for it.

Gary3 wrote:
Take a hacksaw and cut through the first bar all the way around to the inside 2in then grind the weld off the end and it should slide off.

X2. Should be that simple if no plug welds along length.
Id also recommend another +1/2" to insertion length to add small weld tying the outer tube back to inner. IF it were mine I also add length of 1 1/2" inside few inches beyond where outer tube stops. Add back some strength and help carry flex to end. Likely need to groove unless you have means to clean up inside seam. If /when you find 2 1/2" hitch (or truck:) you could weld back a section of 2 1/2" tube.

Last any rating tags on extension should be removed.

Another option looking at my 01 factory hitch thats laying in the garden, the center 2" receiver is just a short length of tube welded to the bottom of cross tube. It could easily be cut off and replaced by competent welder.

Or just buy an oem class V. Take the high road.

Take a hacksaw and cut through the first bar all the way around to the inside 2in then grind the weld off the end and it should slide off.

mellow wrote:
The Reese is 2.5" class 5. It has double tubing to make it 2.5", looks like I could grind it down as a last resort so it will fit in my 2" class 4 hitch. No one makes a 2" to 2.5" adapter due to legal reasons I am sure, you can find a 2.5" to 2" but not vise versa.

I already have a rack on the front hitch :) It is either that or put a deck on the back.

The only place locally that sold square tubing has shut down, they only sold it in 24 foot lengths anyway and wanted to much, hence why they went out of business. I will see how much it will be on Amazon to get some shipped to me.

You can check McMaster for shorter pieces of tubing. They sell almost everything.