I have the remote control happijacs on my Adventure TC and one of them does not work. I suspect a possible short in the wiring from the controller to the jack. I have verified that if I switch another jack to the same port that the failing jack is on that the switched jack works. Also, the failing jack does not work on another controller port. So my conclusion is either the head is bad or there is a short or crimp in the wiring. I have a couple of questions for someone knowledge in the jack's functioning..1. how can I test that there is actually current running through the wiring to the jack head. I think I should be able to do that at the external 'box' where the wiring exits the camper and is connected to wiring to the jack head. If so, what should I look for?2. If there is current flowing at the box, how can I check that it is actually getting to the head. (i.e. flowing through the wiring from the box to the head. Is it possible to do that without removing the head itself?3. OK, the camper is not in the Truck bed, so If I have to remove the head, can the jack itself be locked or am I going to have to manually raise the jack and put it in the truck bed?ThanksJim

Just replaced the motor heads on one of my Adventurer 910 happijac's.Got it fast from this place. PantherRVTry tapping the motor while it is energized. Mine was intermittent and would start working if I tapped the motor head.

As far as I remember, you can remove the motor when the camper is on the jacks. In principle. But you may not be able to access both screws without removing the jack first.These HJ motors often quit working due to corrosion (even after just a year or two). But then they usually blow the fuse every time you try to operate them.There is a small (maybe 1" x 3") white plastic box next to each jack. It has a lid that is held on by 4 small screws. Take it off & you should then be able to unplug the jack wires. Take a multimeter to see if you get 12V at the plug when you try to operate the jack. With some luck, maybe there is just some corrosion in the plug...

I'll definitely try tapping the motor head. I just want to be sure it is the motor head before replacing it. This is the second time this has happened. It happened once when I was having the camper repaired and it appeared that it might have been caused by a crimped power wire. it could have just been intermittent. The particular jack was also always slower at raising or lowering than the other three jacks. I guess that could have indicated a problem also.Thanks,Jim

joerg68 wrote:As far as I remember, you can remove the motor when the camper is on the jacks. In principle. But you may not be able to access both screws without removing the jack first.These HJ motors often quit working due to corrosion (even after just a year or two). But then they usually blow the fuse every time you try to operate them.There is a small (maybe 1" x 3") white plastic box next to each jack. It has a lid that is held on by 4 small screws. Take it off & you should then be able to unplug the jack wires. Take a multimeter to see if you get 12V at the plug when you try to operate the jack. With some luck, maybe there is just some corrosion in the plug...OK, I know the box that you are talking about. I definitely see if there is 12 volts there. Thanks,Jim

svjim wrote:I'll definitely try tapping the motor head. I just want to be sure it is the motor head before replacing it. This is the second time this has happened. It happened once when I was having the camper repaired and it appeared that it might have been caused by a crimped power wire. it could have just been intermittent. The particular jack was also always slower at raising or lowering than the other three jacks. I guess that could have indicated a problem also.Thanks,JimSounds similar to how mine was behaving. I did have to remove the entire jack to change the head but it is not difficult.

Happijac trouble shooting | Good Sam Community

BradW
Explorer II
Aug 31, 2018
https://www.makitatools.com/products/details/XFD10R

You read it on the internet, how could you go wrong?

I have never hand cranked our 4,000 lb camper in the 22 years we have owned it. But I do own that 1/2" drill and it will about take your arm off when it hangs up.

Most of the ads for those drill adapters recommend a 3/8" drill.
Harleybullet
Explorer
Aug 30, 2018
Brad ... just so before I buy you know that the drill will lift an AF1150 about 4500#s off the truck............right? Dave
BradW
Explorer II
Aug 30, 2018
Harleybullet wrote:
Sorry to ask again but, did anyone ever come up with a name and number of a battery operated drill that would lift an 11' full size camper one jack at a time as you walk around and around.... I would rather do that then buy 4 new jacks.....Dave

Makita 18V 2-spd 1/2" drill and you are good to go.

Bradw
Harleybullet
Explorer
Aug 30, 2018
Sorry to ask again but, did anyone ever come up with a name and number of a battery operated drill that would lift an 11' full size camper one jack at a time as you walk around and around.... I would rather do that then buy 4 new jacks.....Dave
BradW
Explorer II
Aug 30, 2018
LannyV wrote:
Wonder if these new vertical motors will be available for the old style jacks. That may solve a lot of the problems.

Good question. If they thought it through, they should be a direct bolt-on replacement for the old style motor/drive unit.
LannyV
Explorer
Aug 30, 2018
Wonder if these new vertical motors will be available for the old style jacks. That may solve a lot of the problems.
BradW
Explorer II
Aug 30, 2018
covered wagon wrote:
White may hold up better.

Yep. Me thinks the Lance version will be white.

Brad
covered_wagon
Explorer
Aug 30, 2018
I hope the plastic being black does not distort or fail in some way from summer heat. White may hold up better. I do like the protection from moisture with the motor inverted like that.

You get the older style motor cups/ covers off to lube the lower bearing by blowing air into the bottom hole. Just 15 psi air with a rubber tip nozzle will allow the motor cover to come off. Then 3 in one oil squirt into the motor housing at the bottom weep hole gets it done.

Over time eventually you'll need to put a clamp around the cup/ cover to keep it in place. Hot days lets it expand and fall off after several years of removal.
stevenal
Nomad II
Aug 30, 2018
Looks like a better motor position. Less likely to collect water at the end bearing.
sonuvabug
Explorer
Aug 30, 2018
BradW wrote:
Sprintcar wrote:
Take a look at the article on the Truck Camper Magazine website on the Adventurer 50th Anniversary Edition. They talk about the new version of the jacks and have a picture.

https://www.truckcampermagazine.com/news/tcm-exclusive-2019-adventurer-901sb-50th-anniversary/

Thanks! Yes, I bet that's it.

Bradw

We love our 2007 Adventurer 90FWS and have always believed it is as close to perfect a design as you can wish for ... at least for our needs. When I saw the 901SB's floor plan, I thought ... hey we have one of those. Then I read the article and it was confirmed ...

"We wanted to pay tribute to non-slide floor plans of past Adventurer models. Specifically, the 901SB floor plan is similar to the Adventurer 90FWS from years ago. The 901SB floor plan is actually reversed from the 90FWS, and tweaked with numerous design improvements."

The new one is definitely updated from ours but the great, practical layout, remains largely the same. I guess if the car manufacturers can bring back their retro designs (Beetle, Mustang, Camaro & Chargers etc.), then why not the RV industry?

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