Heated tanks

Electric pads are super simple to install. Clean the tank outsid with your choice of detergent followed by alcohol.

Position the pad as directed, only peeling a small bit of film from the adhesive. Once lined up, continue peeling and push the pad onto the tank using the heel of your hand.

Wire up to the battery through a fuse and switch and you're done.

Protecting the sewer and fresh plumbing is far trickier.

sch911 wrote:
Generally for TT's heated tanks means 12v heat pads attached to the bottom of the tanks right?

No.

What it usually refers to is an enclosed belly and some heat from the furnace is directed down in to the belly area.

sch911 wrote:
Generally for TT's heated tanks means 12v heat pads attached to the bottom of the tanks right?

No, not usually for a travel trailer. Heated for a TT usually means that the heat ducts from the furnace are in close proximity to the holding tanks, which are usually enclosed anyway.

OP, if you are planning to camp in COLD weather and want to use electric heat I would suggest you get some electric pads for your tanks. If you use electric heat inside the camper, you will likely not be using your propane heat much, which means no hot air is going through your ducts and your tanks aren't getting any heat.

Any yes... propane heaters go thru a LOT of propane in comparison to anything else.

Coffee Grinder wrote:
My tanks are heated and was curious how much protection that actually provided. While camping to avoid freezing up. We have not winter camped and plan to always be hooked up. I would imagine the heater is a pretty good drain on propane however. Will plan on using electric heat inside. Any suggestions will heip

It is a wide range depending on what source of heat you actually have. Most RVs are good to 25 while in use. Heated with the furnace might be good to 20 maybe even 15 but you should be looking for an actual rating at this point or tread carefully. If you have electric heat pads the tanks should be good a bit lower but you still may have issues with the piping and drains. If the high for the day is less than 32 everything is suspect. Sometimes you just need to get out and see. Just have an exit plan and keep your propane topped off by checking daily.

"Heated tanks" is a marketing term. You need to find out exactly how your tanks are heated and insulated.

Some manufacturers, simply enclose the underbelly. Radiant heat through the floor provides some heat to the tanks. Some add insulation, some don't.

Some manufacturers, enclose the underbelly, route the heating ductwork near the tanks. Radiant heat through the floor and from the duckwork, provides some heat to the tanks. Some add insulation, some don't.

Some manufacturers, enclose the underbelly, and vent heated air around the tanks. Some add insulation, some don't.

Some manufacturers enclose the underbelly, route heat ducts near the tanks, and install electric heating pads on the tanks and dump lines. Some add insulation, some don't.

They all say, "we have heated tanks".

If you plan on using electric heat for the interior, only radiant floor heat and electric pads would give you any tank heat.

Do plenty of homework and plan for the weather not cooperating.

My personal experiences with winter camping:

1. Many campgrounds close during winter months. Those that remain open, may have restrictions on hookups and use of electric heaters. Some have no water hookup, some have no water or sewer hookup, some do not allow electric heaters, or charge extra for their use. You may find sites with electric hookup, only.

2. I have the electric heating pads installed. They heat the tanks and dump lines, down to within a foot from the dump valve. The dump valve is exposed. On more than one occasion, the valve has frozen, even with warm tanks. Had to thaw the valve (two hours, wrapped with disposable hand warmers) to get rid of the warm poo poo.

3. Finding open dump sites, can be a challenge.

4. I have used electric heaters to supplement propane heat, but, there is no way around high propane usage. Electric heaters don't circulate the air as well as the propane furnace. Electric tank / pipe heaters draw a lot of power. Add electric space heaters, you may be tripping circuit breakers on the campground post.

5. Moisture builds up, very fast. Clothing in the closets, get damp, and, if they are touching an outside wall, they will freeze to the wall. I carried a small dehumidifier.

6. You need to open closet doors, cabinet doors, and drawers to allow warm air to get in and around everything. Including your plumbing lines.

7. Outside shower is first place to freeze up. I disconnected (inside the heated space) and capped off the plumbing lines going to mine.

8. More than one occasion, winter storms knocked out the electric power. Luckily, I had a portable tank to empty my holding tanks, and enough RV antifreeze to winterize the trailer, right away.

Generally for TT's heated tanks means 12v heat pads attached to the bottom of the tanks right?

So your heated tanks are with forced air. Then you should be fine as long as you heat with your furnace and not electric heat. You may also have water lines that depend on the forced air heat to keep them from freezing also. What type of rig do you have model etc, That would help people to give you a really good idea.