Forum Discussion

myredracer's avatar
myredracer
Explorer II
Nov 13, 2014

Heated underbelly - do we really need ours?

We camped in the coldest weather we have so far on the past weekend and the temp. got down to just above freezing. The furnace ran non-stop all night and most of the time in the day. I *think* what may be happening is that we had the dealer re&re the coroplast to do a modification underneath and I have a feeling it's not as sealed up as it was from the factory. We're about to take it in for a little warranty work and annual maintenance and will get them to look at it.

I've been planning on installing 3 permanently mounted recessed electric heaters (one in each room) and am wondering if we really needed the heated underbelly. All they do is run a furnace duct into the underbelly cavity and let it escape into the outdoors which is not exactly efficient.

Is the main purpose of a heated underbelly just to prevent freezing under the floor? How good a job does it really do to keep the floor a bit warmer? We bought a ceramic heater while camping on the weekend and turned the furnace off. My IR gun showed the floor was only a few degrees F colder than walls and ceiling. No heating ducts under the floor except the one to heat the underbelly.

We don't plan to ever do any sub-freezing temp. camping so my questions are - if using the furnace, can I cap off the duct into the underbelly or what about installing a damper to cut down the CFM into the space? As long as we camp above freezing, would there be any significant downside to not having a heated underbelly if running on electric heat only?

Anyone know if there is a damper available to fit on RV furnace duct (not a vent outlet with integral damper) or something that will attach to the furnace then duct?

I have to wonder if the heated underbelly would work that well below freezing anyway when there is a galley tank at the very rear of our TT as well as piping there too and I wouldn't expect air circulation to be that good throughout the space.

30 Replies

  • Old-Biscuit wrote:
    smkettner wrote:
    Pushing warm air under the RV will create negative pressure in the RV that will increase the feeling of being drafty as cold air is drawn in.


    You do realize that while 'pushing' warm air under the RV warm air is being 'pushed' into interior of RV at same time?
    Furnace blows air thru all ducts when it operates so rv is really under forced draft (pressure) condition.

    Nope, smkettner is correct. There will be negative pressure in the trailer as air is being pushed outside thru the openings in the belly.
  • smkettner wrote:
    Pushing warm air under the RV will create negative pressure in the RV that will increase the feeling of being drafty as cold air is drawn in.


    You do realize that while 'pushing' warm air under the RV warm air is being 'pushed' into interior of RV at same time?
    Furnace blows air thru all ducts when it operates so rv is really under forced draft (pressure) condition.
  • An RV furnace is very inefficient vs. a modern home furnace. The amount of heat being used by the underbelly is negligible. You could disconnect the underbelly duct and the furnace would still run all day.
  • Pushing warm air under the RV will create negative pressure in the RV that will increase the feeling of being drafty as cold air is drawn in.
  • I think that you have a good idea about turning off the ducts to the underside. They only need to be open when the temperature is below freezing.
    The underbelly is poorly sealed at the factory with the Coroplast just laying on the frame. Of course it can't be sealed unless a return air path is provided back to the living area.
  • I have a duct that goes into enclosed underbelly for warm air around tanks etc.
    I also have a duct that blows into basement compartment.

    The basement compartment duct has a round register on it that can be fully open/closed/in-between

    Register

    You can:
    Remove duct from furnace discharge plenum that feeds underbelly area and put one of the closable registers on discharge duct.

    We have done winter camping and I am glad of the ducting blowing warm air into basement/underbelly.
  • We only have a 21 ft TT, but have camped in 39 degrees without using the furnace at all. One small ceramic heater from Tractor supply, on low was plenty.
    If you are not camping below freezing, the tanks won't freeze.
    Even if it dips into the high 20's for a couple hours overnight, the tanks won't lose enough heat to freeze.
    The little ceramic heater was @ $29 and a LOT quieter than running the furnace.
    IMHO
  • I have no belly cover and I get by just fine. But that is the way mine came.

    Tanks and drain pipes are exposed. I actually added electric heat pads for trips to the snow but I think you are fine if just a slight dip below freezing on occasion.

    My furnace has replaceable knockouts for each vent. Yours is probably same so easy to delete the vent. Or just redirect into the living space.
  • RoyB's avatar
    RoyB
    Explorer II
    IN adding your three room heaters you must also keep in mind something must be used to keep the tanks from freezing as well. The furnace is used for this in additional to some tanks have an individual electric tank heater as well.

    Just don't let your room heater mods get you in trouble of not providing heat for the tanks as well...

    Roy Ken
  • With many campers having the furnace provide some hot air to the underbelly is to keep your tanks,(Fresh,Grey & Black) from freezing.

    I would not eliminate this feature.

    When we retired and purchased our trailer we thought we would always be in the sun. NOT. We have accidentally been in areas that received snow three times in 8 1/2 years.

    You just never know.