My DW has asked if I can improve the airflow in the trailer now that things are starting to cool off here in Michigan and we're using the furnace. The heating unit blows air well in the trailer and keeps the central part of the trailer well heated, but the ends of the trailer (bathroom & bedroom) have 2" flexible ducting that T's off from larger size ducting (I believe 5" diameter)and there's minimal airflow with the smaller tubing. I was wondering if anyone has replaced their "T" fitting with a "wye" fitting and if that increased the airflow through the smaller ducting? I've read about the dangers of restricting airflow, but thought the "Wye" fitting might actually increase airflow as long as I maintain the original larger output. Any thoughts or successful mods to solve this minor issue?

on my trailer they used the corrigated metalized mylar for ducts. One, they have lots of airflow resistance and two, not much insulation. I dropped the underbelly and replaced all of that with the same diameter rigid snap together ducting and then wrapped it all with a few layers of the adhesive backed foil insulation.massive improvement in airflow and temperature.

Yes it is possible to redo your heat duct and vents. The difference between a 2"duct and a 4"duct is that the 4" has four times the inside area that a 2" has, and that is why your bath and bed area are cold.On a previous 5th wheel trailer that I had, there was 2" dia. duct in the step area aimed away from the sleeping area. Which I thought was quite dumb. I changed it to a 4" duct and located the outlet in the sleeping area for a big improvement. On my current 5thwheel they never put a heat and AC vent in the bathroom, so I added both to bath. With the way that MFG. do things in RV's, I wonder if any of the designers have eve used one.

I had to redo my ductwork, eliminating five 90s and eight feet of duct, I don’t no who,designed this heating system, but they head their head up their a@&. It made a huge difference on even heat with less propane......

rstanek wrote:I had to redo my ductwork, eliminating five 90s and eight feet of duct, I don’t no who,designed this heating system, but they head their head up their a@&. It made a huge difference on even heat with less propane......Many points of leakage, foil duct tape is your best friend. Look at the connection at the furnace it's self, if connected to a floor duck that connection is not very loose.

You guys are making think it might be worth dropping my underbelly, and re-doing our ducts as well. The only thing worse than the airflow ( or lack thereof), is the noise. Man, is the fan ever noisy!

Heating duct airflow improvement | Good Sam Community

rhagfo
Explorer III
Oct 04, 2017
rstanek wrote:
I had to redo my ductwork, eliminating five 90s and eight feet of duct, I don’t no who,designed this heating system, but they head their head up their a@&. It made a huge difference on even heat with less propane......

Many points of leakage, foil duct tape is your best friend. Look at the connection at the furnace it's self, if connected to a floor duck that connection is not very loose.
rstanek
Explorer
Oct 04, 2017
I had to redo my ductwork, eliminating five 90s and eight feet of duct, I don’t no who,designed this heating system, but they head their head up their a@&. It made a huge difference on even heat with less propane......
Dr_Quick
Explorer II
Oct 04, 2017
Yes it is possible to redo your heat duct and vents.
The difference between a 2"duct and a 4"duct is that the 4" has four times the inside area that a 2" has, and that is why your bath and bed area are cold.
On a previous 5th wheel trailer that I had, there was 2" dia. duct in the step area aimed away from the sleeping area. Which I thought was quite dumb. I changed it to a 4" duct and located the outlet in the sleeping area for a big improvement.
On my current 5thwheel they never put a heat and AC vent in the bathroom, so I added both to bath.
With the way that MFG. do things in RV's, I wonder if any of the designers have eve used one.
ktmrfs
Explorer II
Oct 03, 2017
on my trailer they used the corrigated metalized mylar for ducts. One, they have lots of airflow resistance and two, not much insulation. I dropped the underbelly and replaced all of that with the same diameter rigid snap together ducting and then wrapped it all with a few layers of the adhesive backed foil insulation.

massive improvement in airflow and temperature.

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Heating duct airflow improvement

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