Hellwig Big Wig Installation Report
The Big Wig installation was fairly easy and straightforward. For the most part, the installation instructions were well-written and easy to understand though some steps weren't explained very well and a few steps even appeared to be superfluous (more about these below). Overall, the install took about three hours, including the time it took to remove the spare tire and reinstall it after the Big Wig installation was complete. I should mention that removing the spare tire is important for this install. Doing so gives you much more elbow room underneath and made the installation far more pleasant than other sway bar installations I performed in the past.
A few items in the directions are worth reiterating. First, the saddle brackets must be installed on the axle with one leg over the raised lip on the cast iron center section. If you don't do this, the bar won't fit properly and you'll encroach upon the brake lines. The other item is also important. The instructions state that you should hand tighten or loosely install the sway bar until the end so that adjustments can be made to the fit. This is important as you will most likely require some fine tuning to ensure all pieces and parts fit together well and that you have enough clearance between the exhaust pipe and driver side shock absorber (I had only 1/2" between each).
Like any job, having the right tools will make the install go much quicker and easier. You'll need a pair of socket wrenches with a 3/4" standard socket, a 7/16" standard socket, and a 3/4" deep socket. A 10" extension for the socket wrench is also recommended during the installation of the passenger side clevis plate. You'll also need a flat bladed screw driver to pry open the brake line clips, a hammer to install the metal spacer tubes, and a rubber mallet to adjust the position of the sway bar before everything is tightened up. A crescent wrench will also be needed to tighten the bolts on the threaded portion of the end links. Lastly, a torque wrench is required to tighten all nuts to the specified foot-pound ratings: 60 ft-lbs for the axle U-bolts, 50 ft-lbs for the frame mounted U-bolts, and 35 ft-lbs for the end link clevis bolts.
Now let's delve into those instructions issues I mentioned earlier. Step 10 simply states to, "lubricate outside and install hourglass bushing and spacer tubes into the sleeve in end link," but nowhere in the instructions does it explain how to do this. There's a technique used to install both and I had to find a YouTube video on how to do this. First, you apply a small amount of grease to one end of the hourglass bushing then the sleeve of the end link is pressed down into the bushing using the palm of your hand. Once the bushing is in place, then you can install the metal spacer tube using a small amount of grease on one end. To install the spacer tube in the bushing, lightly hammer it into place. Do NOT install the spacer tube into the hourglass bushing first or you won't be able to install it in the sleeve. I found out the hard way that this approach won't work. I also recommend performing this step first before you get underneath your truck for the main install.
The remaining issues with the instructions were less egregious, but still wasted valuable installation time. Step 7 calls for the removal of two small screws that secure the spare tire heat shield to the truck's frame rail. These do NOT need to be removed on a 2013 Ram 3500. Similarly, Steps 12 and 13, which calls for drilling and mounting an offset support bracket for the heat shield as part of the passenger side clevis installation, can simply be ignored as I had plenty of room to install the frame mounted U-bolts and clevis plate. Lastly, Step 14 requires that a jam nut be installed on the driver's side end link. The directions require that this nut be installed on the driver's side only. Why isn't there one for the passenger side, too? The directions don't say. If anyone knows the answer, I'd love to know.
A few items in the directions are worth reiterating. First, the saddle brackets must be installed on the axle with one leg over the raised lip on the cast iron center section. If you don't do this, the bar won't fit properly and you'll encroach upon the brake lines. The other item is also important. The instructions state that you should hand tighten or loosely install the sway bar until the end so that adjustments can be made to the fit. This is important as you will most likely require some fine tuning to ensure all pieces and parts fit together well and that you have enough clearance between the exhaust pipe and driver side shock absorber (I had only 1/2" between each).
Like any job, having the right tools will make the install go much quicker and easier. You'll need a pair of socket wrenches with a 3/4" standard socket, a 7/16" standard socket, and a 3/4" deep socket. A 10" extension for the socket wrench is also recommended during the installation of the passenger side clevis plate. You'll also need a flat bladed screw driver to pry open the brake line clips, a hammer to install the metal spacer tubes, and a rubber mallet to adjust the position of the sway bar before everything is tightened up. A crescent wrench will also be needed to tighten the bolts on the threaded portion of the end links. Lastly, a torque wrench is required to tighten all nuts to the specified foot-pound ratings: 60 ft-lbs for the axle U-bolts, 50 ft-lbs for the frame mounted U-bolts, and 35 ft-lbs for the end link clevis bolts.
Now let's delve into those instructions issues I mentioned earlier. Step 10 simply states to, "lubricate outside and install hourglass bushing and spacer tubes into the sleeve in end link," but nowhere in the instructions does it explain how to do this. There's a technique used to install both and I had to find a YouTube video on how to do this. First, you apply a small amount of grease to one end of the hourglass bushing then the sleeve of the end link is pressed down into the bushing using the palm of your hand. Once the bushing is in place, then you can install the metal spacer tube using a small amount of grease on one end. To install the spacer tube in the bushing, lightly hammer it into place. Do NOT install the spacer tube into the hourglass bushing first or you won't be able to install it in the sleeve. I found out the hard way that this approach won't work. I also recommend performing this step first before you get underneath your truck for the main install.
The remaining issues with the instructions were less egregious, but still wasted valuable installation time. Step 7 calls for the removal of two small screws that secure the spare tire heat shield to the truck's frame rail. These do NOT need to be removed on a 2013 Ram 3500. Similarly, Steps 12 and 13, which calls for drilling and mounting an offset support bracket for the heat shield as part of the passenger side clevis installation, can simply be ignored as I had plenty of room to install the frame mounted U-bolts and clevis plate. Lastly, Step 14 requires that a jam nut be installed on the driver's side end link. The directions require that this nut be installed on the driver's side only. Why isn't there one for the passenger side, too? The directions don't say. If anyone knows the answer, I'd love to know.
