Helper springs or air bags?

Not sure about 1500’s but when my 3500 is level with with a load I have reached maximum payload.

I doubt that many people have tested this. That’s about a 3 inch drop on my Ram 3500, 4200 lb payload. The trucks are made to squat.

Also a WD hitch for a bumper does few things is gets the rig back to level if you are not level, it takes weight off the rear, again if you are not level, and puts some of that weight on the front axle, and it helps suspensions that are near max weight act more normally under load.

So all that is under static load and it you add air bags it complicates the setup. I’m not sure the sequence that you hook up your camper in with air bags. Is it hookup the camper to the ball. Then air up the bags to level the load, then put in the wd hitch, or is it hookup the equilizer all up and if it’s still not level pump up the air bags, or there probably other ways?

For that reason I’d probably go with sumo springs or the like, if you have a good hitch like an equalizer.

Just out loud thinking if you air up the bags before hooking up the wd hitch and you don’t load the equalized properly, do you negate the effect of sway control that the equalizer offers?

The other thing that was apparent with me when I owned a Class C motorhome w Firestone ride rites. I would put 75 psi in those bags when flat towing our jeep. That raised the back about 2 inches over level placing more of the loaded weight on the front axle, which made that class c handle ohhh so much better. Also my fancy bike pump works much better and quicker than a compressor for the ride rites.

My Ram is planted towing my fiver. So airbags aren’t needed.

mkirsch wrote:
Helper springs and timbrens are full time support. Airbags can be easily adjusted for the load, or no load at all.

You are wrong. You have it backwards

Slight sag is normal. Most trucks have the rears higher so when loaded they're level or so with the front. You wouldn't want the truck level to start with and load it up. If so the headlights would point up to high.
If it tows fine then leave it.

FWIW the front is more critical. Set the front properly and the rear is what it is. You don't need the rear to be at the OEM height when hitched.

A properly setup WDH will not cause the rear to sag. You need to put more weight on you bars. Once that's done they need to be parallel with the road. Might need to adjust the hitch head angle to accomplish that.

My truck came with airbags and it's nice. Looks to be that quick connect tubing so install and repairs would be easy. Truck is a 2002 so with all that years of slop and free play in parts it's hard to tell if the truck tows different.

Nice to pump them up if getting a heavy load in the back. It's fun hitting the drain and pump button.

Spend $20 at a CAT scale to adjust that WD for 100% front axle weight restoration (despite what Ford recommends).

I'd just let it sag a couple inches and not give it a thought.

The volume of air required in air bags is very , very small . I have used a manual bicycle pump to blow up my bags , takes less than 30 seconds . No need for an installed compressor system at hundreds of dollars . My neibor spent about $500 for his system and is so proud of it , only ran his truck payment up $ 16 per month for seven years !! I need the exercise and the five hundred dollars !

I use Sumo's from etrailer.com which work just like Timbrens on the wifes 1500 chevy 4wd bcrew cab short bed and a 10k car hauler with 9400 lbs on the trailers axles. The loaded trailer adds about 1060-1000 lbs on the back of the truck.
I wouldn't say helper springs can help eliminating in all sway issues but under certain problems they could help.....such as a sag issue.

I'd just go with Summo or Timbrens. I prefer Summo's myself.
Both will sit an inch or so above the axle so the unloaded ride remains the same. Unlike bags where you need 5psi in them On a lighter weight 1/2 ton even 5 psi can affect the ride.