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Grit_dog's avatar
Grit_dog
Navigator III
Jun 07, 2016

Home made lower stable loads?

K so I'm cheap (haha sorry I'll annoy whoever posted their cheap rant, lol) and don't really feel like drilling my springs for a positive attachment. (Ok more lazy than cheap drilling spring steel upside down is a pain in the ....)
Bought some plastic felling wedges that are and effective 9" long and 3" wide, so perfect shape and size.
Was planning on hose clamping them onto the lower spring. Dado a notch parallel to the lower spring for the clamp to ride in on the wedge.
Who thinks they'll get spit out and who thinks they'll stay put?

9 Replies

  • Thanks Gary. Hose clamps it is!
    You put on a lot of miles without them moving?
    Wish I had upper overloads, but no dice.
    Got a big wig sway bar now and the lower wedges along with the air bags.
    Made it to AK with the camper just fine with the airbags jacked up to 60 lbs and other trips as well, pretty stoked for this setup. No mo rock n roll!
  • I did this same thing with only hose clamps on an F250. Clamps held just fine. I finally installed the lower stableloads though so I could disengage them when not towing.

    BTW - I used hockey pucks drilled in the center for "upper" stabloads and they are still in there working just fine.
  • IDoMyOwnStunts wrote:
    I think they'll be up to the job, but given some of the concrete roads around here (WA), I wouldn't be confident that they wouldn't be spit out. Worth a try, though. If you lose one, you can try clamping it to the spring pack instead. Good luck.

    Ya, I'm certain they will work well if I can get them to stay put.
    Was thinking same thing about clamping but rather clamping something behind the thick end as they'll run out almost to the end of the overload leaf. A stop to keep them from sliding out but can't think of anything clever or easier than just sucking it up and drilling a hole in each spring.
    Except, if I got like 3/8" dia square u bolts I could do a similar notch in the thick end of the plastic and clamp the snot out of them with that. Another thought was rough up one side of the plastic and epoxy them down to the overload before hose clamping.
    But if I'm doing all this then drilling 4 holes in the springs won't take any longer and will be a positive connection.
    Will update after I put them in and take a test run.
  • brulaz wrote:
    Dunno about your 2007 Dodge, but I was able to the get the overloads on my F150 to become active earlier by increasing the thickness of the bumpstops. Used Energy Suspension replacements, you can get them in different thicknesses: http://www.energysuspensionparts.com/9.9102


    Problem is, there's no holes in the overload leaf or something like this, stable loads or even my wedges would be a snap to attach. Thx for the suggestion though. I used them in the past on a couple trucks and they're a great option.
  • MudChucker wrote:
    Well, ever see that episode of leave it to beaver where wally convinces the beav that painting the fence is fun ?

    Convince your buddy that it's a challenge you don't think he can do and drill em for you ;)


    Ha! Not sure I got any peeps that gullible right now! Lol
    Tried convincing my 13 year old, but since it doesn't have a cell phone or a soccer ball attached, he's not interested!
  • Dunno about your 2007 Dodge, but I was able to the get the overloads on my F150 to become active earlier by increasing the thickness of the bumpstops. Used Energy Suspension replacements, you can get them in different thicknesses: http://www.energysuspensionparts.com/9.9102
  • I think they'll be up to the job, but given some of the concrete roads around here (WA), I wouldn't be confident that they wouldn't be spit out. Worth a try, though. If you lose one, you can try clamping it to the spring pack instead. Good luck.
  • Well, ever see that episode of leave it to beaver where wally convinces the beav that painting the fence is fun ?

    Convince your buddy that it's a challenge you don't think he can do and drill em for you ;)