Forum Discussion

egarant's avatar
egarant
Explorer III
Apr 20, 2024

Stable Loads

I topic beat to death probably, but I have a quick question.  I installed a set of Torklift lower Stable-Loads this lifted the truck perfectly, but it took away the contact of the upper over-load spring pack  to the bumper above them, they now sit about 1” above the bumper.  When full loaded the camper does just rest on the overloads.   

Should I get some upper stable loads?  

Cheers,

Eric

  • Empty bed vs empty camper….not the same. Just a little mis-interpretation. 
    egarant, yes I’d maybe endeavor to get the upper overloads engage a little more, presuming you like how the lowers have leveled it back up. However the more you engage the uppers, the less you’ll engage the lowers. 
    That said it’s fine tuning at this point. And a sway bar may make the most difference. However if it doesn’t have unacceptable body roll while driving, I wouldn’t be chasing minutia like pulling out of parking lots, personally. 
    Without incurring expense, just fake in some temporary upper “stable loads”. Clamp a hockey puck or hardwood block or whatever in there and see what you think first. 

    • egarant's avatar
      egarant
      Explorer III

      I agree, fine tuning is the answer at this point.  I have lower stable loads engaged, I have Roadmaster front and rear sway bars.  So to decide if upper stable loads were needed, I fabricated one.  Instead of using a hockey puck I purchased 4 heavy duty plastic felling wedges.  Hot blued two together to make a long block, then used heavy duty plenum tire raps to fasten it to the spring pack.  I used a special tie wrap tensioner to really cinch them down.  I only installed them on the forward part of the overload springs as the rear was already engaging.  My findings say that it was an improvement and I will probably be leaving them there as I don’t see why the setup wouldn’t last. 

      • stevenal's avatar
        stevenal
        Nomad II

        egarant,

        That looks like a great test, but I predict it won't last long. Nothing to keep the blocks from slipping apart but a bit of glue unsuited to the task.

  • Upper ones made a big difference on my F350.

    Lower ones helped level it out.

    Don't forget to lower your airbags if you have them.

  • If you have air bags, reduce the pressure so more metal spring is being used instead of the bag. If you are just on the leaf springs, do you have a rear stabilizer bar? Add a Roadstar or Hellwig bar if you do not have the OEM already in place.

  • With the camper on the truck not loaded with gear/food/clothing/etc. The upper overloads are not engaged.  When said gear is loaded into truck camper, they are engaged.  I am trying to reduce side to side sway when going in and out of driveways……

    Cheers,

    • stevenal's avatar
      stevenal
      Nomad II

      I skipped the lower Stable Loads, since I didn't think I would enjoy attempting to drill the springs. I installed upper Stable Loads (easy) and replaced both the skinny Ford anti-sway bars with Roadmaster bars. These two things helped reduce swaying considerably.

    • StirCrazy's avatar
      StirCrazy
      Moderator

      you want them to be engaged with the empter camper put on the truck, I would look at the stable load uppers also.  does your truck have a rear sway bar?  if not that would be a big help also.  

  • The upper overload springs should not be engaging when empty but should when loaded. If you are still trying to address rear sag, go for the taller upper StableLoad pads. If you are level, there is no need.