TorkLift Upper Stable loads installation?

Tom_Anderson wrote:
I know this really doesn't answer the OP's question at all, but on my F-250, I swapped out the factory overload leaves for new ones meant for a newer F-450. They have quite a bit more arch, plus a higher spring rate, so they accomplish the same thing as the StableLoads. The best part is, they cost me under $100, brand new.

Thanks for the tip!

I know this really doesn't answer the OP's question at all, but on my F-250, I swapped out the factory overload leaves for new ones meant for a newer F-450. They have quite a bit more arch, plus a higher spring rate, so they accomplish the same thing as the StableLoads. The best part is, they cost me under $100, brand new.

I can't help with the Dodge specifics but on my GMC the upper overload spring perches were arched also. The pads came off easily enough and the new TL upper stable loads went on with not too much trouble. It lifted the camper just enough and the ride seems better as well! One stable load came off while underway, somewhere unknown, hopefully it didn't take out someone's radiator, windshield, etc. It was amazing as the stud, nut and washer were in place but the big stable load was gone! I contacted TL (outstanding customer service)and they sent me a complete new set of stable loads along with a set of new arched plates that when combined with the arched perches on the GMC provided a flat surface for the stable loads to land on that eliminated the potential for them to "rock". The holes in my perches were actually slots and the washer that TL supplied was having a hard time spanning the slot so I purchased four 3/8" ID "Unistrut" 1/4" thick square washers from HD which span the slots much better than the standard washers did. I also cut the threaded studs shorter to make the installation easier in the tight quarters under the wheel wells. Remember to put the nut on before cutting the studs so you can use the nut to "chase" the threads otherwise with the fine threads TL uses you could be looking for a Die.

Cant imagine that would be very entertaining...amazing what you can do when not knowing any better.
I changed spring packs in our jeep that were way too soft, ended up adding/swapping around & replacing a few leaves, cutting down some older heavier leaves. To regain friction pads I had to drill. 2 rears leaves I only had to add hole at one end, fronts 2 leaves that needed holes both ends. Drilled 6 holes in the ends of reworked leaves for friction pads. I don't recall it being fun, till on 6th hole chipped flute and had to run up bit sizes to get close enough. Bit was nothing special, 5/8" HS, possibly cutting/retapering softened the metal.

mute as Motes post also gives info that OP wont need to drill.

I hadn't seen that metal frame earlier on the stable loads, I assume that acts as sort of a saddle to help stabilize. I do question the stick out length of bolt, though some application require use of spacers to adjust contact. (not an issue on the older Dodge it appears :)

Mine were installed on my '04 Dodge 3500 DRW by the original owner. I think they are installed correctly. They are in contact the full with of the spring, same as the originals. The photo is with my TC loaded.




I would definitely call the manufacture for clarification. Looking at the thickness of the Stable loads, I think maybe your springs are weak and need to be re-arched. I find it hard to believe it was their intent to have the Stable loads engaged full time or be installed every time you hauled a heavy load. Think about it, the sole purpose of the Stable loads is to engage the overload springs sooner. Most trucks have 4 to 5 inches clearance. The Stable Loads typically reduce it by 3 inches. This still leaves 1 to 2 inches travel before engagement.

AnEv942 wrote:
Really... that's supposed to work? One size fits all... Even if removing the original rubber and happened there's a hole or end up drilling how does a flat bottom bolt to a curved surface? If there was a hole I assume it'd be centered so contact would be off, further working the bolt. Goofy IMO

Has some one actually done this?

If I had to use those Id be inclined to pull the o'ls, drill and mount to top leave, clearance hole the bottom leave so they could still move independently.If I had to use those Id be inclined to pull the o'ls, drill and mount to top leave, clearance hole the bottom leave so they could still move independently.
Or someone should design replacement brackets. Bewildered...
Given the weight you plan seems being in the LA area a decent spring shop could be found at reasonable cost to replace springs.

Probably just me- I don't get it, never looked at them before.
I just looked at my truck, 01 Ford. Not as much curve as yours-different, think they might work. Springs are flatter in relation to less curved bracket. Plus it appears there would be, if any, a lot less engagement with no load. Curious.
Wonder how difficult to slide the stock rubber off to see if hole? Pulling all 4 four to drill sounds like work...

I'd like to watch you do that.....:R

In as much as your leaf springs are tempered, quenched and stress relieved (heat treated), drilling a hole will be impossible with a High Speed bit. Rockwell on a spring leaf will be in the mid to high 80's, not drillable with conventional means by a long shot. You could drill a hole with a High Rock die redlaim drill but your hardware store won't have one. Hi-Rock's are solid micrograin Tungsten Carbide btw.

I have a 1996 dodge 2500 2wd. I put those on a couple years ago. Actually I should say I only put them on when carrying the truck camper. To install I have to put a floor jack under the hitch and jack up the truck a few inches to have enough room between the overloads and the stops. Because of this they are always engaged, even when there is not a load in the bed. This makes for a horrible ride empty. So that's why I only use them when camping.
For the initial install, I was able to pry off the rubber pad to drill a hole in each of those. The metal portion that is attached to the frame already had a hole big enough.



After installing and with the camper loaded the truck rides pretty level. Of course I'm grossly over my GVWR and right at the top of the tires rating. We're saving for a used dually before the next big trip.

That would be my 1st inclination, longer length would be in line with length of spring. But unless there is a hole rear of bracket the one tab may need cut off? (Ford has a slot thouhg not that wide)

I dunno, except the bracket may not set in the recess of rectangular hole of bump stop base. Tabs outward (into upward curve) would give anti rotation, would help stabalize.
Given the contact area of spring and bump stop, lack of full support for base, Id be inclined to try, cant see it really making any differnace with forces applied the way it mounts but may not fit that way...
Instruction show no orientation? Second guessing T/Ls intent

this is how the upper and lower stable loads look on my F350 Dually

Look at the seventh post on this thread. This is what the finished install should look like.
http://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/29225231/gotomsg/29225368.cfm#29225368