Horrible tire wear in 2 years

Well just to update. I finally got my trailer into an axle shop this spring. On Friday I got the dreaded news, I need new axles, they're so bad they won't even let me drive it off the lot without fixing or having someone tow it. Exact quote from the mechanic "these axles should NEVER have been put on a trailer of this size". Forest River has not responded to emails or voicemails since last fall so they for sure aren't going to address this issue. Just sucks to have axle issues within 2 years of spending 20 grand on a new trailer only to find out that no matter what I did that I would have axle problems. We only go for weekend trips, so just clothes, food in the fridge, coleman grill, and fold up chairs are what we travel with, no way that should overload it.
My last hope is the dealer, they're calling me tomorrow to discuss.

Good info guys, I appreciate it. I've spent many hours on these forums learning from all of you. I definitely am going to find out what is wrong before I make any rash decisions, yes I'm a little mad at the moment, it's just frustrating. I'll get over it eventually. I'm the kind of person though when I feel like I've been wronged by a company I'll never work with them again, and it doesn't matter to me if it costs me more in the end just on principle alone I would get rid of it. I'm hoping it doesn't come to this cause other than this issue we've never had a problem with our trailer in 2 years.

I have tried finding a good shop in my area that work on travel trailers and haven't had a ton of luck yet, but I will find one. I'll let you know what I find out and if Forest River ever responds to me as I did find some good contact information on the Forest River forum as well.

As far as the dealer is concerned, I know I won't be back. The guy wouldn't even hear me out or give me a good idea of who could help me get it fixed (i.e. shop in the area) as soon as I said axle problem/tire wear he immediately said after 90 days we can't help you and he just wanted off the phone.

Keep us posted as to whether the new axles and tires solved the problem long term. I would never return to that dealer if they wouldn't even try to help you in some way.

Page 17 of this has a table of tire wear patterns which indicates a bent axle or overloading: Lippert manual Unless you have towed for 2 years with under-inflated tires, it sounds like bent axles. It could be from hitting potholes and craters in the roads, but could be frame and suspension issues.

I would try some googling as it looks like frame issues could be a known problem with V-Cross units. Have you asked or searched on the FR forum?

I think these V-nose TTs are one of the ones out there that have the I-beams that are made from 3 pieces of 1/8" sheet steel welded together to look like a regular forged I-beam. If you have one of these, they have extreme flex in them which could be a contributing factor. With excessive flex, the axles can bend too easily. Also, if the spring hangers are the taller 6" ones and the axles are under-slung, that increases the lateral (sideways) leverage force imposed onto the axles. If the axles are "allowed" to flex too much, you won't have to hit very big potholes to bend axles.

If you have one of the above frames, check and see if all the spring hangers are perfectly vertical (sitting on level ground). I have seen them bent out of vertical over 1/2". Look at the lower flange of the I-beam where the spring hangers are attached and see if the flange is distorted. You may need a straightedge to see it. Look for cracks in the vertical web of the I-beams right above the spring hangers. Cracks can develop there but it may be early yet in 2 years to show up.

Does the frame have gussets or other strengthening pieces welded on the I-beams near the spring hangers? Gussets help to reduce frame flex. Sometimes there is square tubing welded to the underside of the frame to help stiffen it up.

I you have something you can use as a straightedge around 5-6' like a decent 2x4, see if the axles are flat. You could also have bent spindles but it sounds more like bent axles. Axle tubes are paper thin and can be easily damaged. They are often rated at the borderline of the weight they carry.

This Lippert LIP Sheet has some helpful info.: LIP Sheet 0135

This LIP Sheet shows how to measure a frame: http://www.lci1.com/images/support/lipsheet/0088.pdf

This LIP Sheet shows tolerances in frame/suspension measurements: http://www.lci1.com/images/support/lipsheet/0151.pdf

I highly recommend that you go to a frame and axle shop that has experience with towable RVs. I wouldn't go to a semi shop. The right frame and axle shop will know exactly what to look for in a TT. If you have the fabricated I-beams, they can recommend some re-inforcement methods. They will also look for other things like sub-standard welding. One thing that can be done is to tie the bottom of the spring hangers together at the bottom. Mor/Ryde has an X-member kit or you can make your own. If the inspection shows some significant flaws and poor inherent design, you might try sending a report and pics to Lippert and the factory to see if they change their mind. I wouldn't expect the dealer to be of any help whatsoever. If sending something to the factory, I would try and find someone there higher up and who is empowered to do something.

Installing higher rated axles is a very good idea. The axle sets themselves are not that expensive and you can do it yourself. However, you may have to go from 5-lug to 6-lug wheels which may not be inexpensive. If you have a "regular" forged I-beam frame, just upgrading the axles will help tremendously.

The sad truth about TT (and FW) frames is that there are no industry standards that the frame builder has to comply with. They can build substandard frames and not be accountable to anyone. It is also the TT manufacturer's fault as they are involved in the frame specs. to some degree.

If you can, please follow up on what any findings are and what transpires in the end.

Definitely call the manufacturer. Also read this post by emmysdad. Link

Cost you a lot more than 2 grand to trade trailers.

B.O. Plenty wrote:

thrillhouse wrote:
Just talked to the dealer. They aren't willing to do anything, they won't even look at it. My tires absolutely are rated for 7040 pounds, I never even thought about that. It's just unbelievable to me what a blatant disregard for the safety of others stuff like this is all to save a few bucks.
I'm going to try to contact Forest River see what happens with that, if that doesn't work I might just slap some new tires on it and trade it in for a new trailer. I like ours, but don't see the point in spending more thousands of dollars to get new axles and properly weighted tires. But in a few days I may feel different.

Not all the weight is carried on the axles. You need to allow for the tongue weight. Sounds like your axles should be adequate. This is standard industry practice. It wouldn't cost thousands if you were to replace the axles. They usually cost less than $500.00 each. Probably not needed. Just get a set of quality tires and have it aligned as earlier suggested. An alignment at a heavy duty truck/trailer shop should cost around $200.00 RV dealers can't do this.

B.O.

You guys have made me feel a little better. All said and done if I did upgrade my axles (I have 2) plus 4 new tires, I am talking almost 2 grand. That's a lot to swallow after spending 20 grand on a brand new trailer 2 years ago. I know travel trailers are money pits and need to be babied which I feel I have done as far as maintenance.
What gets me is taking into account the tongue weight, my tires/axles are within 50 pounds of not being adequate. If this were the case with my tow vehicle everyone on here it seems would be attacking me for not having a bigger vehicle, but for some reason it's ok to be that close on the trailer axles? It's just a recipe for disaster in my opinion and now I know in the future to look out for stuff like that if/when I get a new trailer.

Hopefully, someone looking to buy a new trailer might read this and make a point to check the tire/axle ratings for the vehicle and make sure they are at least 20% over what the trailer weight is. (although, i'm now sure this will be hard to do)

thrillhouse wrote:
Just talked to the dealer. They aren't willing to do anything, they won't even look at it. My tires absolutely are rated for 7040 pounds, I never even thought about that. It's just unbelievable to me what a blatant disregard for the safety of others stuff like this is all to save a few bucks.
I'm going to try to contact Forest River see what happens with that, if that doesn't work I might just slap some new tires on it and trade it in for a new trailer. I like ours, but don't see the point in spending more thousands of dollars to get new axles and properly weighted tires. But in a few days I may feel different.

Not all the weight is carried on the axles. You need to allow for the tongue weight. Sounds like your axles should be adequate. This is standard industry practice. It wouldn't cost thousands if you were to replace the axles. They usually cost less than $500.00 each. Probably not needed. Just get a set of quality tires and have it aligned as earlier suggested. An alignment at a heavy duty truck/trailer shop should cost around $200.00 RV dealers can't do this.

B.O.

donn0128 wrote:
Bent axles from jumping a curb or a big pot hole can do you in easily. Have the alignment checked by a reliable semi trailer repair shop. They fix stuff like this all the time. RV dealers dont

X2!!

B.O.

jpk wrote:
Where are the tires made? Just could be cheap China junk.

My trailer came with cheap tires made in China and after one year one tire (single axle trailer) began showing excessive wear on the outside edge. Replaced them with Maxxis tires and two years later, the tires are still wearing evenly.

Get rid of the junk tires and improve your safety profile; it may also solve the wear issues.

Bruce