Hot skin issue please help
Hi, I have a 1996 30 ft camper I'm having a hot skin issue where 50 v is leaking from shell of camper to ground. Each of the six breakers I have on my camper reduce this voltage as I shut each of them...
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Started from scratch, again.
Replaced the variable non-contact tester, and I think my first one was bad as it registered near a battery and could tap my hand and get it to beep...replaced that Sperry junk!
Drove a ground rod near the trailer and tested the power cord hot to earth ground and measured exactly the same as H to N.
Proceeded to test turning circuits on and off and filling and draining the water heater to check voltage from frame rail to ground each time...occasionally had some voltage readings.
Reattached battery and ground for 12volt system and all of a sudden I cannot recreate anything over 1/2 volt, ever.
It appears that the trailer has the 12volt and the 110 volt system somehow sharing a ground and without the battery attached I was not getting a good 110 ground.
I have a Kill-A-Watt meter inline right now to observe when systems turn on without switches and I plan to test for hot frame/skin when the volts/watts change. And, hopefully, with the battery reinstalled and the ground attached and the the new heater element I have the problem licked.
I'll update if I find out different.
Replaced the variable non-contact tester, and I think my first one was bad as it registered near a battery and could tap my hand and get it to beep...replaced that Sperry junk!
Drove a ground rod near the trailer and tested the power cord hot to earth ground and measured exactly the same as H to N.
Proceeded to test turning circuits on and off and filling and draining the water heater to check voltage from frame rail to ground each time...occasionally had some voltage readings.
Reattached battery and ground for 12volt system and all of a sudden I cannot recreate anything over 1/2 volt, ever.
It appears that the trailer has the 12volt and the 110 volt system somehow sharing a ground and without the battery attached I was not getting a good 110 ground.
I have a Kill-A-Watt meter inline right now to observe when systems turn on without switches and I plan to test for hot frame/skin when the volts/watts change. And, hopefully, with the battery reinstalled and the ground attached and the the new heater element I have the problem licked.
I'll update if I find out different.
