How big a trailer can I easily tow

According to CSX Railroad you only need .1136363 horsepower per ton. The simple answer is 7500 lb. Gross weight, weighed on a scale after you are ready to go camping.

I tow a 26 foot 5000 lb. dry weight TT with an F-150 4x4 and E-boost engine. I believe I am at the limit for max cargo when I am loaded.

I have no problems with the bumps and pushes from cross winds and Semi’s passing, though other might find it annoying.

Much over 5000 lbs. dry wieght seems to be ¾ ton country

2012Coleman wrote:

OP wrote:
My question is how heavy of a TT can I easily haul around the country? I understand Gross weight and dry weight.

Do you understand payload and what contributes to it? Do you understand that payload will most likely be reached/exceeded before tow capacity? As stated, tow capacity is a marketing gimmick, reached by unrealistic means and a desire to be "best in class".

Yes, although I do not claim to be an expert.

There will be 2 adults and a dog and neither adults have seen the 150 pound average driver/passenger weight since 1971. LOL

I will limit the TT to 3500+/- lbs dry weight. Looking at 22 to maybe 24' length. Also will try to pick one with a more aerodynamic front end design as opposed to the flat front ones.

Thanks again for the advise.

stevec22 wrote:
ETA I don't think I will be doing enough long range trips to justify the additional cost of a new TV. I understand the recommendations to do that, but new TT and new TV will be $60-80k and that does not meet my retirement budget.

Some 4.10 gears should cost less than $2,000 for both axles and improve the dynamics of the drivetrain significantly, towing or not.

80% rule

Where can I find this 80% rule I have never heard of in 51 years of towing RV.s?

Link..Official source...

Here is the gas towing reality! I tow a 9ft 6" high by 7ft wide ultralight designed for easier towing.

I have a 6.0 3.73 4l80e combo and it struggles towing hills:

Interstate highway 6 percent grades at 45 mph.
The worst was on a 22 percent grade on state route and the engine and trans were cooking.

Doug33 wrote:
Even on 3% grades, I slow down to about 45-50 MPH on the freeway. I can't imagine towing up 5%+ grades out west.

The 5% grades aren't even the ones that really get you in trouble. Yes, they can be long and you'll know you're climbing, but once you get into the Sierras, or even in the hills around Portland and Seattle, long 15% grades are common and some roads can top 25%.

Old-Biscuit wrote:

jmtandem wrote:

First. I currently have a 2005 Yukon with a factory tow package installed, a 5.3L V8 engine and a 3.42 rear end, 4 wheel drive TV. It is rated at 7500 pound tow capacity.

It depends in part on three things. How comfortable are you towing a bigger trailer; where do you want to go as some older state and federal campsites are smaller than the bigger RV parks or newer campgrounds; and how much can your tow vehicle haul. If you have a 7500 pound tow rating that is provided by the manufacturer that is the max weight for your vehicle to tow. Some advocate the '80 percent rule', or going up to only 80 percent of the 7500 rating. In the real world no manufacturer provides an eighty percent rule. If they say it will tow 7500 pounds that is the value. Good luck.

Problem with MFG. max tow ratings is that they are NOT real world example. The 'fine' print is a disclaimer concerning max tow ratings

FINE Print
*Maximum trailer weights in pounds for properly equipped vehicles with no cargo
*Maximum Loaded Trailer Weight assumes a towing vehicle with any mandatory options, no cargo, tongue load of 10-15 (conventional trailer) or king pin weight of 15-25% (fifth-wheel trailer), and driver only (150 pounds).
*May vary depending on model, trim and/or powertrain.
*Weight of additional options, passengers, cargo and hitch must be deducted from this weight.

so if you have a base, stripped model, weigh only 150# and don't take anyone/anything with you yeah........max tow.
But if you don't fit the above forget that magical max tow rating.

A tow vehicle will go over GVWR, payload/cargo capacity or rear axle/tire ratings before reaching max tow rating.

Want to know what you can tow.........
Load your vehicle up 'camp ready' (everything/everybody) and go get weighed.
Then subtract that weight from vehicles GVWR-----that is your real cargo/payload available.

15% of trailers GVWR is good idea of tongue weight. Can your vehicle handle that weight?

Probably closer to 6000# trailer

80% rule

Tow rating magical 7500lbs x 80% rule = max trailer weight 6000 pounds.

OP wrote:
My question is how heavy of a TT can I easily haul around the country? I understand Gross weight and dry weight.

Do you understand payload and what contributes to it? Do you understand that payload will most likely be reached/exceeded before tow capacity? As stated, tow capacity is a marketing gimmick, reached by unrealistic means and a desire to be "best in class".

It's unusual here to find folks suggesting you stay smaller as most often it seems like bigger is better. But this is sound advice. We tow a Rockwood TT with a dry (fictional) weight of 5585 and a GVWR of 6629. Our '03 F150 CC has factory tow and is rated for 8000#. We have wiggle room and feel well within our limits. Allow yourself about 20% or 1000# to spare.

When we unloaded our HTT to move into the TT it was amazing how much stuff had migrated in. DH had way more tools than he would have needed to build a new trailer. I had this and that and more this and that....where did all this stuff come from?? Rocky is on a lifetime diet. When "stuff" goes in, something needs to come out and Yes, we have had him on the scales and we're good.

You don't mention how many people, pets, etc but you might take a look at the Rockwood Mini Lites. They have several nice floorplans. We're on our second Rockwood and no complaints. Something in the 4500# range sounds like you'd be good. Suggest you do double check all your numbers before you start shopping and if any doubt take your VIN# to the dealer and have them pull up the build info. It will be what's truly correct. You'll also have a sticker on the door/door frame of your vehicle which should also be correct.

Re MPG....you might save a drip here and there with a slightly lighter trailer, but the frontal area is where your gas mileage gets eaten. Smaller frontal = somewhat better mileage. Most here are happy with an average 10 mpg, so don't expect much more. On a trip this June to CO from West TN, once we hit OKC we started a slow, almost unnoticeable climb and our mileage went to 8mpg, UGH. Didn't make any difference when we got into the last pull into Durango. Coming home we got a nice 12 mpg, averaged out to about 10. When I plan our trips, I just base the gas bill on 10 mpg and we usually come out a smidge ahead.

BTW, suggestion for your trip...Durango, CO and take the Silverton Train. Awesome trip! Go ahead and spring for the slightly higher $ car as you'll not have to deal with the cinders and you still have a great view. Lightner Creek Campground is exceptional and there is also one in the downtown area that's quite nice and the train actually goes right through the middle of the CG. Can't recall the name of that one, but either is good.

Good luck and happy shopping.