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stevec22's avatar
stevec22
Explorer
Oct 28, 2014

How big a trailer can I easily tow

Hello all. I am looking at retiring summer of 2015 and I am looking at spending a month or two traveling the Western US. I am currently evaluating different TT options and would appreciate advise.

First. I currently have a 2005 Yukon with a factory tow package installed, a 5.3L V8 engine and a 3.42 rear end, 4 wheel drive TV. It is rated at 7500 pound tow capacity.

My question is how heavy of a TT can I easily haul around the country? I understand Gross weight and dry weight. I am wondering if I should try to stay in the 4500 total TT weight range to keep it easy tow and minimize wear on the Yukon. Or can I push the max (6500 +/-) on the trailer weight without undue handling issues on my TV.

Thanks in advance

20 Replies

  • Thanks to everyone that has responded. I appreciate the advise.

    I have a fair amount of experience towing, but not a TT. I have pulled sailboats and small pop-up campers in the past mostly using Jeeps or minivans. In my younger days, I have pulled construction trailers, loaded with Backhoes and other heavy equipment, using dump trucks. So some experience, but not extensive.

    Based on what has been posted it looks like my TV could handle heavier, up to 6500 pounds, TT's if I was only towing locally. Since my plans are to cross the Rockies at least twice, I would be better suited to stay with the lighter weight TTs.


    ETA I don't think I will be doing enough long range trips to justify the additional cost of a new TV. I understand the recommendations to do that, but new TT and new TV will be $60-80k and that does not meet my retirement budget.
  • The average RVer adds over 1000 pounds to dry weight. If you plan to be on the road for 1-2 months, even just as a single person that will be more than 1000 pounds. Under 5000 pounds dry. Consider a HD truck.
  • My question is how heavy of a TT can I easily haul around the country?


    It appears you have little if any towing experience,everyone starts somewhere.My advice is go small and light and learn before stepping up to the heavier/longer trailers that present different challenges than the shorter/lighter.

    Good luck on your choice.
  • I pull a 5,200 lb TT with my 5.3 Avalanche, and it is at the limit I am comfortable with. And I mostly tow with just me and the wife, and generally flat terrain here in the east. Even on 3% grades, I slow down to about 45-50 MPH on the freeway. I can't imagine towing up 5%+ grades out west.
  • I would definitely stay closer to 4500 lbs. You'll exceed the 4000 lb rear axle rating long before you get anywhere near a 7500 lb trailer.

    I pulled a 5500-lb trailer on many long trips with my 2001 Suburban (5.3, 4.10), including a trip out west to Yellowstone.

    Going over the mountain passes (~9000 ft elevations), the best we could do was first gear and 25 MPH. We tried to do that in the evenings, to minimize our impact on the flow of traffic.

    I also broke the rear axle while towing the trailer. Twice. Hence the upgrade to the 08 2500.

    You should seriously consider upgrading your tow vehicle. A 5.3 with the 4-speed and a 3.42 rear is going to be a complete dog, especially in the Rockies.
  • jmtandem wrote:
    First. I currently have a 2005 Yukon with a factory tow package installed, a 5.3L V8 engine and a 3.42 rear end, 4 wheel drive TV. It is rated at 7500 pound tow capacity.


    It depends in part on three things. How comfortable are you towing a bigger trailer; where do you want to go as some older state and federal campsites are smaller than the bigger RV parks or newer campgrounds; and how much can your tow vehicle haul. If you have a 7500 pound tow rating that is provided by the manufacturer that is the max weight for your vehicle to tow. Some advocate the '80 percent rule', or going up to only 80 percent of the 7500 rating. In the real world no manufacturer provides an eighty percent rule. If they say it will tow 7500 pounds that is the value. Good luck.


    Problem with MFG. max tow ratings is that they are NOT real world example. The 'fine' print is a disclaimer concerning max tow ratings

    FINE Print
    *Maximum trailer weights in pounds for properly equipped vehicles with no cargo
    *Maximum Loaded Trailer Weight assumes a towing vehicle with any mandatory options, no cargo, tongue load of 10-15 (conventional trailer) or king pin weight of 15-25% (fifth-wheel trailer), and driver only (150 pounds).
    *May vary depending on model, trim and/or powertrain.
    *Weight of additional options, passengers, cargo and hitch must be deducted from this weight.

    so if you have a base, stripped model, weigh only 150# and don't take anyone/anything with you yeah........max tow.
    But if you don't fit the above forget that magical max tow rating.

    A tow vehicle will go over GVWR, payload/cargo capacity or rear axle/tire ratings before reaching max tow rating.

    Want to know what you can tow.........
    Load your vehicle up 'camp ready' (everything/everybody) and go get weighed.
    Then subtract that weight from vehicles GVWR-----that is your real cargo/payload available.

    15% of trailers GVWR is good idea of tongue weight. Can your vehicle handle that weight?

    Probably closer to 6000# trailer
  • If you are going to tour the USA I suggest the lighter the better. You will use less fuel as well as have less weight to tow up the mountains. If you tow close to youe max you may have trouble climbing the hills as well as over stressyour tow vehicle.
  • I have a 2005 Suburban with the 5.3 and 3.42 rear end. Being a two wheel drive, it weighs very close to your vehicle. I have pulled a 5,200lb 28' TT many miles, but mostly in the south, and not in the mountains. I would not be comfortable with any more weight. With the 4sp auto, I run in 3rd gear. 60 MPH is 2,300 RPM. On anything more than a gradual hill, it will shift to 2nd, which is 3,600 RPM. Certainly doesn't hurt anything, but is kind of annoying. You can minimize this greatly by not using cruise control, and letting the rig speed up some downhill, and lose speed uphill. My rig is pretty stable (Reese SC hitch, 800lbs bars), but I have a 130" wheelbase. A short wheelbase Yukon will not be as stable. I also pull a 5,300lb boat, which is easier. In either case, I would not want any more weight. I would consider 6,200 lbs out of the question (unless I had a Hensley or Pro Pride hitch, and changed the rear end to a 4.10).

    By the way, on my Suburban, the max tow rating is 7,400lbs. It is 8,400 with the 4.10 rear end.

    CT51
  • Lots of hills in the west... consider going to 4.10 gear ratio and keep the trailer GVWR under 7500.

    Actually go as small as possible if you expect an 'easy' tow.
  • First. I currently have a 2005 Yukon with a factory tow package installed, a 5.3L V8 engine and a 3.42 rear end, 4 wheel drive TV. It is rated at 7500 pound tow capacity.


    It depends in part on three things. How comfortable are you towing a bigger trailer; where do you want to go as some older state and federal campsites are smaller than the bigger RV parks or newer campgrounds; and how much can your tow vehicle haul. If you have a 7500 pound tow rating that is provided by the manufacturer that is the max weight for your vehicle to tow. Some advocate the '80 percent rule', or going up to only 80 percent of the 7500 rating. In the real world no manufacturer provides an eighty percent rule. If they say it will tow 7500 pounds that is the value. Good luck.