How heavy?

fully loaded with everything (Kayaks, food, fishing gear, beer, and all onboard systems full) I have 1000 pound of margin at the rear wheels 1500 at the tires and 1700 at the axle. But then again that's why I upgraded to 19.5 wheels and tires.

i personally have around 1200 to spare, but i don't fill my water,food ,booze , propane or gas tank top up untill i'm near to my final destination.

Curious, when you are all loaded up with the camper on the truck and full water/propane, how much spare capacity do people usually have for gear/food? 500 pounds? 1000 pounds, 3000 pounds?

If you are looking at new diesels, the fuel economy has suffered due to all the emissions put on it. Plus, the added potential high expense of repairing the system after it goes out of warranty. Then there is the higher expense of maintenance.

Gasoline engines are cheaper to repair and maintain. They are very capable of going 200+k miles before needing work. They will have to downshift more than the diesel and will get less fuel mileage. The fuel mileage is offset a little by diesel costing on average about 10-15% more (right now in my area, diesel is 42% more).

General consensus is that unless you put a lot of miles on the truck, pull heavy, or pull often the gasser will do the job just as well for about the same cost. My detailed analysis I did says the gasser I just purchased will cost me about $500/year more to own over the next 6 years based on 20k miles/year @ $4/gal for gas with a 10% premium for diesel fuel. At current prices of $2.20 gal with a 40% diesel premium, it will save me about $600/year. But we all know fuel prices won't stay this low for very long though we can hope.

Thank you again.
Maybe it's the European in me, but the reason I would pick a diesel is better fuel efficiency and engine longevity. I have a Golf TDI for the same reasons.
Why would a gasoline V8 be better?

To OP, All respondents have given great advice and if you read these guys posts as much as i do, you know they are speaking from hard won experience.
First off, I have a long bed, extended cab 3/4 ton, gas Chevy with 6 spd auto. Its geared 3.73:1 and I run LT 'E' rated tires on 18 inch rims. I carry a 94 model Lance 480 that weighs roughly 3600 pounds ready to camp. The lance is a non slide, aluminum sided, aluminum roof deluxe camper. Its 9.5 ft. Long. My truck weighs about 7000 pounds gassed up and gets about 16.5 mpg unloaded on a steady 70 mph cruise and about 12 mpg with the camper. It has plenty of power to cross Colorados numerous high passes.
I don't pull a trailer and my only suspension mod are Torklift International stableloads. The truck rides about 1 inch high in the rear and I want to put a rear sway bar on. It needs it.
I camp with my wife and 3 dogs. 2 small dogs. One lab.
We do well with the space.
Now, all that said. If i had a heavier camper, i would not be comfortable without making more mods or buy a higher capacity truck. I personally don't desire or feel a need for diesel power.
I hope this helps. I'm sure we all want you to be happy with the results of your decision.
Best of luck! DT.

3500 SRW minimum. A 2500 series truck won't due for a lot of campers out there once you start loading supplies, family, etc.
I'd get a long bed. Short bed campers stop at about 8' in length. Long bed campers go to just over 11' in length. Since you're looking for something with no slides an 8' camper will be quite cramped with a family. I'll assume you're also looking at used campers. I'll guess that maybe 75% of them will be for a long bed truck.

06Fargo wrote:
We enjoy our 3500 quad cab long bed truck in camper-hauler mode.

A crew cab is handy.

X2

Bedlam wrote:
1. Consider a crew cab so your kids don't outgrow the extended cab truck.
2. Start with a 3500/F350 unless you budget extra for a wheel upgrade on a 2500/F250.
3. There are more long bed camper options than short bed.
4. Expect a minimum of 3000 lbs for a loaded truck camper but closer 4000 lbs.
5. If you plan to tow more 5000 lbs behind your truck while hauling the camper consider a diesel.
6. If you stay with a 8-9' camper, you will not need an upgraded receiver and extension to tow.

That pretty much sums up what I would suggest as well, and for sure on number 1, that's why it's listed as the first item.
Extended cab trucks well get cramped (lack of leg room, and a seat back that is so close to 90 degrees (vertical) that it gets uncomfortable after 30 minutes.

The older the camper the heavier it is likely to be. The campers also fall into 3 general categories in terms of weight. The lightest will have a cassette toilet and no shower. Mid range are the ones with a wet bath. Going to the dry bath models and you have the longest and heaviest camper models.

All campers have a sticker on them that has the weight of the camper when it left the factory. Any seller can provide you with that number. Add 800-1000 lbs. for the overall load weight on the truck and you will be in the ball park.

The 2500 class trucks load capacity varies by make and by model year. The 2011 and later GM/Chevy trucks and the 2013 and later Ram trucks have equally strong frames and suspensions with their 2500 and 3500 SRW trucks. Not so for Ford where I would want a F-350 for hauling a camper around.

Most SRW trucks will be the same for 2500 and 3500 trucks but for the leaf packs provided and the rims and tires used. Both these aspects are easily changed and even with a 1-ton the tires are often the load limitation with 2 tires rated at 3195@80 PSI limiting the rear payload to about 3,000 lbs. after you have subtracted the weight of the truck at the rear from 6400 lbs.

Easy to add SuperSprings if there is sag at the rear with the camper in the bed (can get up to 5,000 lbs. of support). There are 3750@80 PSI tires from Toyo, Nitto, and BFG that will fit on the factory rims.

Good light campers include ones from Northern Lite, Lance, and Wolf Creek. They have ones that have a dry weight from the factory of around 2,000 lbs. and are far from being Spartan in terms of conveniences provided.

With campers the availability of 2 batteries is great for boondocking and for camping in general the capacity of the holding tanks is an important consideration. Check this out by downloading current or past model year brochures from the manufacture's website as with Lance or by getting the details from the seller who should have the documentation for the camper. Fridge capacity can also vary with 4, 6, 8 cu ft fridges in campers. We use a 6 cu ft. and it works for the two of us. With more people a 8 cu ft fridge might be important.

Many campers will be described as sleeping 4 people but with the campers for the short bed trucks this often means 2 adults and 2 short children. Good to check before you buy if you need more space.

If the turck