We are camper shopping. Have seen a few that have a GVWR of over 9000 lbs. That is too much for our tow vehicle. But then I see the dry weight is around 6500. The cargo capacity is around 3,000 lbs. We would never carry anywhere near that since we camp at full service campgrounds and don't need to haul around a lot of liquid, and we pack light anyway.Should the GVWR be the deciding factor here? Or should some reasonable estimate on possible towing weight be more appropriate?

You're right to think along those lines. GVWR is semi worthless but it is relative to how the trailer is built IMO. I had a smaller 5th wheel prior to our current TT that had over 4,000 lbs for CCC. UVW was around 7300 lbs. No way could I ever load 4,000 lbs in it. Under normal loading expect to add around 1,000 lbs. I know from my own experience that I carry about 1500+/- lbs of stuff, but some is add ons like extra batteries, bike rack, solar panels, etc. When shopping or browsing for fun I always look at the CCC to see how my 1500 lbs would work. GVWR never factors in. CCC is the most important number for me.Add your 1,000 lbs to the trailers stickered UVW and that's close to what you'll actually be towing.

If you already have a camper take it to a CAT scale and see what it weighs compared to the empty weight...that will give you your current cargo weight.UVW of the new trailer + current cargo weight should be a decent estimate for the new rig. I would probably bump that up a bit (maybe 500lb) as nature abhors a vacuum and big rigs with lots of storage (ie: vacuum) tend to get filled.If this comes in below the GVWR, you have a reasonable basis for using your calculation over GVWR. Keep in mind 3000lb CCC is more than most RVs have, particularly smaller non-toy haulers. 1000-2000 CCC is more common and it's very easy to max that out, so lacking better information, is where the recommendation to use GVWR comes from as most people have no clue what their actual cargo weight is.

I don't tow anything that i can overload. Ots easy to say i will not tow with full tanks etc. But it does come up, so i would definitely add the weight for full tanks, so waste water, reguler water , propane etc. After adding rhat it add you stuff. Then see how close your are. You will be surprised how much stuff you buy and it all adds weight. I seem to get a new something or other each year, and never get rid of anything. I rather tow a lighter camper then suck wind up a hill. Not saying it cant be done, just not worth it.

valhalla360 wrote:If you already have a camper take it to a CAT scale and see what it weighs compared to the empty weight...that will give you your current cargo weight.UVW of the new trailer + current cargo weight should be a decent estimate for the new rig. I would probably bump that up a bit (maybe 500lb) as nature abhors a vacuum and big rigs with lots of storage (ie: vacuum) tend to get filled.If this comes in below the GVWR, you have a reasonable basis for using your calculation over GVWR. Keep in mind 3000lb CCC is more than most RVs have, particularly smaller non-toy haulers. 1000-2000 CCC is more common and it's very easy to max that out, so lacking better information, is where the recommendation to use GVWR comes from as most people have no clue what their actual cargo weight is.yep, and 1500 lbs. would be a "normal" cargo weight.bumpy

I have said this all along. I always recommend to add 1200-1500lbs to the dry weight. Our old TT had a 4100lb CCC! It wasn’t a Toy Hauler. Just an overly built TT. It scaled at 9300lbs loaded for a trip. It’s dry weight was 7100lbs. Yes I pack heavy. 2 adults and 2 kids. and a 100lb German Shepard at the time. I also packed heavy knowing I had more than enough CCC in the TT and my Excursion was more than capable.

How much do you really need? | Good Sam Community

mkirsch
Nomad II
Sep 22, 2020
I would dare postulate that they're overloaded because they're towing trailers with ridiculously low CCC's. Many popups and single axle travel trailers are straining their GVWR's before you even put a 6 pack in the fridge.
Michelle_S
Explorer III
Sep 22, 2020
Okay, maybe 50 to 60 percent overweight came from Escapee's Smart Weigh Folks in an article they published a while back.
Edd505
Explorer
Sep 19, 2020
Never heard anyone say they had too much truck. What ever you buy will gain weight just like we do, the older the more gained, unless you spring clean. Then out with everything I have not used in 3 months.
IdaD
Explorer
Sep 19, 2020
We tend to store a lot of our outdoor/camping/hunting/etc. stuff in the trailer year round. I don't use that bone saw or block and tackle while we're camping but it's still in the camper, and that way I have it in the fall when I'm hunting. I also only travel with full fresh tanks. I also don't overthink this stuff and haven't ever run any of my setups over a scale. My approach is just my approach and if you're more careful about loading up extra stuff or keeping track of weights you can get by with a lower cargo capacity and smaller truck.
Grit_dog
Navigator
Sep 19, 2020
If a person is that concerned about weight that planning what gets brought what gets left home is a concern then that person either does not understand vehicles, does not have experience towing and/or is about to overload something and just “asking for a friend”....
In any of those cases, stop measuring how much milk your going to take and whether the propane is full or half full and just make sure your setup fits within the plethora of generally conservative recommended limits of both the vehicle and trailer.
Walaby
Explorer II
Sep 19, 2020
Michelle.S wrote:
I think using the GVWR is still the best number to use, especially when you consider the like 60 per cent are overloaded.

I went by GVWR, when I purchased all three of my trailers. If I can tow up to GVWR with my tow vehicle and stay within all parameters, then I know Im good.

Where did you come up with 60% are overloaded? Or is that a guess?

Mike
Michelle_S
Explorer III
Sep 19, 2020
It depends on what you mean by "Dry Weight". Are you talking Brochure weights or actual scaled weight as it leaves the Factory??
Our current unit left the Factory 1000 Lbs more than the Brochure weight and on one of the RV Sales shows recently they had a question about the average cargo people carry, and the answer was 2000 Lbs, it really adds up quick.
I think using the GVWR is still the best number to use, especially when you consider the like 60 per cent are overloaded.
kellem
Explorer
Sep 19, 2020
time2roll wrote:
I always recommend keeping the GVWR within the tow rating.

My thoughts as well.
JIMNLIN
Explorer III
Sep 19, 2020
Should the GVWR be the deciding factor here? Or should some reasonable estimate on possible towing weight be more appropriate?

When buying a RV or a non rv trailer I use the trailer dry weight and take a look at GVWR.

I always weigh a new or new to me trailers axles before loading it. That way I know how much weight were adding on average.

Use you own judgement for a particular unit as they all have different CCC and we all don't carry the same necessary "JUNK" :)
ppine
Explorer II
Sep 19, 2020
"Don't buy anything you can overload."
Words of wisdom by sjm9911.
Pull something your tow vehicle can handle.
If you want to tow heavy things then get a bigger truck.

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