How to de-winterize your trailer? *UPDATE*

BubbaChris wrote:
PS - One of the best TT purchases we made were a pair of walkie-talkies. This way the spotter can calmly talk to the driver as we're positioning the TT. No arm waving, no yelling, etc.

Different perspective - one of the worst investments I made and didn't stop all the arm waving anyway. :W The reason - walkie talkies are one way communication at any given time, so if the driver is talking at any given moment the spotter can't respond, and vice versa. The solution - wireless phones which are duplex communication. I for several years had a wireless base station in the truck that just sat on the console, set it to intercom speaker, and my wife & I could just talk back & forth at will. I guess we've been at this long enough now we no longer bother but it was proof positive to me that duplex phones were a lot better solution that walkie talkies. I'd presume that most these days would simply talk to each other using cell phones which of course also offer duplex communication. :)

De-Winterize for me also includes "Prep for Camping" work that may be specific to the TT not being used for some time.

For example - I open the propane tanks and make sure I can get the appliances to light (before leaving home). So I'll test them in this order - Stove, Water Heater, Refrigerator, Furnace.

I also check the air pressure in the tires and torque the lug nuts.

Checking the water level in the batteries is something you'll want to do next year. You should have brand new ones this year.

The on item not done on my checklist yet is to get on the roof and check the caulking for cracks.

PS - One of the best TT purchases we made were a pair of walkie-talkies. This way the spotter can calmly talk to the driver as we're positioning the TT. No arm waving, no yelling, etc.

Thank you for all the feedback and advice. I'm reading it word for word.

yes, I'm new to RVing (just bought it last weekend) and I'm just trying to do things the right way and create good habits going forward.

Just stumbling through right now trying to get as much education as possible before I just go after it and damage something.

Silly, but don't forget you've put a bunch of water into the holding tanks. Take that into consideration when planning when to dump tanks...before or after the camping.

Some RVs do not have a water heater bypass. It is no big deal to install one.
Run the lines until they clear. You can do that at home in your driveway.

I don't use my RV that much, so I never drink out of the water tank. I bring water from home for drinking.

The quickest way is to hook up a hose to the TT s city water inlet and flush the antifreeze from the pipes through the faucets. Keep the hot water tank bypassed so the antifreeze does no get in. Do not forget the toilet flush.

We use our outside water tap.

You could fill and sanitize your fresh water tank and use it to flush your antifreeze but I like to do it as a separate operation so the bleach water can slosh in the fresh tank, while I go to the dump station to dump the antifreeze from the gray and black tanks.

I have found that no matter how well I flush the system, there is always a bit if bleach or antifreeze residual favor in the water for a while. I try to reduce this by opening the hot water heater bypass and flushing it when all else is done. Our water heater is easy to reach.

It sounds complicated but it is not.


Good luck and enjoy your new RV.

drsteve wrote:
Your water heater will have a bypass valve that must be returned to the proper position for normal operation. Valve is located on the back side of the WH tank.

Since the OP is a newbie it's entirely possible his dealer winterized his trailer ... if so, it's also possible the tech returned the water heater bypass valve(s) to the summer position after winterizing. My own dealer does this, the reasoning being that it's just that much easier for new owners such as the OP to start using the trailer in the spring by simply filling the system with water.

I like to fully flush all lines prior to sanitizing by running water through all faucets. Get all the pink stuff out before sanitizing. After doing this make sure you put the water heater back in the (Non) bypass position. You can also give the low point drains a quick turn while under pressure to push out antifreeze or anything that may collect there. I too use bleach in the tank and let it sit a few hours and then drain the tank and flush the system with fresh water. I also refill the tank and allow it to drain a couple times. Remove the water heater drain plug and spray water into the hole and allow it to run back out flushing anything at the base of the heater. When you open the bypass some antifreeze can get by and end up in the tank. Flushing through the drain gets that and anything else that settled out.

You may have a siphon hose on the pump with a valve. Make sure that valve is closed. You may also have a valve from the tank to the pump, make sure that is in the proper position depending on water source. Every camper is a little different and things can vary a bit but that is pretty much it. Enjoy!

It's not as complicated as people make out.

Run water from any source--city or tank-- and flush all the antifreeze out of the lines first, until there is no foaming or visible pink stuff.

Find out the size of your freshwater tank. You will need 1/4 cup bleach for every 15 gallons.

Close the drain to the freshwater tank if it is open. Fill it about halfway and add the bleach. Then finish filling it.

Open all the coldwater taps (don't forget the outside shower) and run the pump until water comes out. You should smell the bleach. Close the cold water taps.

Look at your water heater plumbing. If it is bypassed, turn the valves so it is not. Then open the hotwater taps. Run the pump until the water heater fills and water comes out of all the hot taps.

Let the system stand as is for 12-24 hours.

Drain the tank.

Refill the tank with fresh water.

Repeat the process above with opening taps and running the pump until the bleach smell is mostly gone. Be sure to run the hot water long enough to flush through the water heater.

If you want to be sure of getting rid of all the bleach taste, add 3% hydrogen peroxide (the kind used as a disinfectant) to the second tank of water, in the same ratio as the bleach.

If you have a hose to hook up to a water supply, it's a good idea to disinfect it too. Use the same bleach mixture in it as for the trailer, let it stand, and flush it out. It's a good idea to store it with the ends fastened together, to keep it clean.

Takes longer to describe the process than to do it.

We sanitize any time the trailer sits unused for a month or longer. We often fill from Forest Service wells or other sources that may be safe but are never chlorinated. If you never fill from anything but chlorinated water supplies, you will be fine with once a year.

Me. i don't use the fresh water tank. So all I do is hook up the city water, and turn it on. instant dewinterizing