How to remove oxidation before waxing?

RinconVTR wrote:

Just buy your favorite brand RV/Marine product like this;

I can't speak for anyone else but in my case I don't HAVE a favorite brand......because I haven't "polished" any kind of a vehicle myself for.....oh, about 30 years.

One needs the most help when you know NOTHING.

RinconVTR wrote:
How many RV'ers does it take to change a light bulb?

Man you guys make life difficult!

Just buy your favorite brand RV/Marine product like this;

http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-M4965-Marine-Fiberglass-Restoration/dp/B0000AY4YT/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1436579149&sr=8-1&keywords=meguires+rv+wax+kit

AND TO ELIMINATE ANY HIGH EFFORT AND SAVE TIME...BUY ONE OF THESE;

http://www.amazon.com/Kawasaki-841475-10-Inch-Orbital-Polisher/dp/B00NARC9B8/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1436579268&sr=8-6&keywords=10%22+buffer

You'll have your camper done in no time, and the buffer can be used o all your cars and trucks as well. These 8-12" orbitals WILL NOT burn your paint, no matter hard you try.

Not trying to pick an argument here, but my opinion of these random orbitals is they are only "slightly better" than hand polishing. And yes, I have one.

As you point out, they will not burn your paint. Which is both a blessing....and a curse. The reason they won't burn your paint is because "they are not doing much".

I do still use mine sometimes for final buffing on clear coats of the cars and trucks. I also let the beginners use it when they are learning how to use power to buff wax off. The clear coats on factory paint on cars is very thin indeed. The gel coat on these campers is a lot thicker than clear coat.

Your point is valid though that using a rotary buffer is an acquired skill, and if a person is stupid with it, you "can" screw up the finish.

How many RV'ers does it take to change a light bulb?

Man you guys make life difficult!

Just buy your favorite brand RV/Marine product like this;

http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-M4965-Marine-Fiberglass-Restoration/dp/B0000AY4YT/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1436579149&sr=8-1&keywords=meguires+rv+wax+kit

AND TO ELIMINATE ANY HIGH EFFORT AND SAVE TIME...BUY ONE OF THESE;

http://www.amazon.com/Kawasaki-841475-10-Inch-Orbital-Polisher/dp/B00NARC9B8/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1436579268&sr=8-6&keywords=10%22+buffer

You'll have your camper done in no time, and the buffer can be used o all your cars and trucks as well. These 8-12" orbitals WILL NOT burn your paint, no matter hard you try.

I will admit that I am normally a Meguier's user for the cars, trucks and motorcycles in my garage. However, to be honest, I really don't want to put that much time and effort into the trailer to make it look nice.
Over the years, I have found that of the many car "cleaner/waxes", Turtle wax is one of the more aggressive cleaners. I used it with my rotary ( not a DA, but a true rotary ) polisher on the trailer, and it brought the front cap back to a nice shine. As others have said, I agree it's mostly the UV exposure that attacks these surfaces. Keeping it waxed is important for best looks.

EDIT: my opinion is that you simply cannot get these nearly as nice looking by "hand" or with a "DA". A rotary is needed to cut through the dull finish.

RSD559 wrote:
With our old fiberglass trailer, the problem wasn't oxidation, but it was that the gelcoat layer had lost it's gloss. That was one of the reasons we got rid of it. The decals were peeling and the gelcoat was almost crumbly.

You have just perfectly described what oxidation IS with that kind of finish. A good bit of it is caused by the sun (UV) damage.

Protect All will remove the oxidation, and leave it shinny. You do need to do some rubbing depending on the amount of oxidation.

"Now, you can bring back the once lustrous shine to your RV, car, truck, boat and more with Protect All FIBERGLASS Oxidation Remover & Color Restorer. One-step application removes oxidation, wax build-up, stains, surface scratches and hard water spots to restore color and luster to dull, oxidized fiberglass, gel-coat, enamel and polyurethane painted aluminum. Cleans, polishes and seals all in one easy step."

With our old fiberglass trailer, the problem wasn't oxidation, but it was that the gelcoat layer had lost it's gloss. That was one of the reasons we got rid of it. The decals were peeling and the gelcoat was almost crumbly.

Any treatment with phosphoric acid based products or TriSodiumPhosphate will remove oxidation. I've been using Jasco TSP substitute for years. I mainly use it on painted surfaces before painting as it removes all oxidation.

If you want a gloss shine, you will then have to buff on a sealer like marine wax or you can straight buff it with cutting compounds but that isn't for the faint of heart (many hours).

I really like Zep products (was using one today for work) but I don't think I'd use the floor wax on my RV. I just think there's risk for yellowing or cracking/chipping and a marine wax is easier to apply and maintain.

I recently got some Parfe liquid wax but have only used it on lawn equipment. From those experiments, I'd say it's a pretty good wax, very durable and the application can't get any easier. After I get done with some other projects, the Parfe is going on the Hilton.

Good luck with your rig. A good coat of wax always says a lot for the owner, IMO.

Protect All Fiberglass Oxidation Remover, and Color Restorer.
Protect All

Has always worked well for me.
Walmart has it in store, or Amazon.

DutchmenSport wrote:
Try spraying a small spot with WD40. Wait a minute and wipe with a soft cloth. See if that works.

It works wonderful for road tar, tree sap, and black streaks!

That's an interesting idea and I have used it on normal hard, glossy automotive finishes because you can then remove the residue of the WD with a good washing.

I'd be a little concerned that the WD would soak into the pores of the fiberglass and make it next to impossible to get it all OFF and then difficult to impossible to get any wax product to stick good.