increase payload capacity 2004 Suburban 1/2 ton

We were towing a pup with a 5.3 trailblazer and did the 15mph trans killer hills in Monroe county

Ever venture into Pennsylvania? I had my family of 4 in a k2500 sub head to Ricketts Glen. 22% grades, (mandatory truck stop signs, and 20 mph speed limit for combined weights over 21000lbs)

I was towing a 5000lb hybrid. Second gear up: trans temp 265/engine temp 285. Hot! Try that with a overloaded 5.3 half ton.

Going home: second gear down. Brake checks and plenty of reserve brake power

If you want some peace of mind then there's only three things you can do; upgrade to a capable vehicle, reduce and get closer to your limits, or take 2 vehicles. And I'm not one of these people who will recommend getting a 1 ton for your popup. I'm one of the push the limits type people, but I know when enough's enough. What you have to remember is that there's a weak link somewhere in that truck. That's how the GVWR gets made up by the manufacturer. Which component is it? Unless you work for the manufacturer and was on the design team, then you'll never know which one. You can spend thousands of dollars on coolers, brakes, suspension upgrades, gears, engine mods, and any number of other bolt ons and never address the truck's weakest link. Could be the linkage in the drivetrain, the actual gears in the tranny, or the crankshaft.

Exceeding the GVWR to get to the axle rating is bad, but it's not really that bad of a thing. It's something that lots of people get away with. But exceeding the axle rating is in a totally different ballpark. For me that's a hard line that you don't want to cross. One thing you have to remember is that the brakes on your vehicle are designed to stop that axle's rating according to FMVSS. Also, those bearings in that axles are carrying vehicle's weight. When you exceed the axle rating those bearings have to take on more weight than they were designed to.

At your current level it's probably not all doom and gloom (I'd keep a very close eye on that rear end and suspension). You're not exceeding your ratings by a lot this time, but who knows next time. Next time you might bring a couple extra chairs, a little more water, or more food. Your kids are only going to grow, get heavier, start to bring more stuff. If I were you I would not toss any money into this truck trying to make this truck better because you won't succeed. There's been too many who've come before you that's tried the same thing and came up with the same results. I just don't want to see you stranded on the side of the road with your wife and kids and facing expensive repairs all because something broke when you hit a simple dip in the road.

I would agree the 2500 is the best option from a total chassis point of view. A slightly heavier rear end all around would work too. Which is best? I can debate that both ways in this instance.

blt2ski wrote:
rhagfo,

Not sue where the issue you have with my post. I said, being over gvwr is not an issue. While not direct about being over the RA, it is the weak link, being over it will be an issue. There is nothing illegal about changing out the weak RA for a stronger one.

Marty

No nothing illegal, but why spend money on a band aid like that. OP would be better off just upgrading to a bigger Suburban.
Installing a stronger axle is an option, but a better option is to replace the TV, can change the VIN plate rear axle rating, but would be a bit safer.

rhagfo,

Not sue where the issue you have with my post. I said, being over gvwr is not an issue. While not direct about being over the RA, it is the weak link, being over it will be an issue. There is nothing illegal about changing out the weak RA for a stronger one.

Marty

What was the empty front axle weight? The loaded with WDH at 3200 seems a little low. You could probably apply more WD tension which will increase FA weight, decrease RA weight, and increase TT axle weight a small amount, enough to put you under all your truck's ratings. Drive on and save up for the replacement TV.

blt2ski wrote:

MVH1 wrote:
Man you guys are extreme! If I read his post correctly he is 100lbs over his GVWR and 50lbs over his Rear GAWR. I don't think distributing 100lbs from the front of the trailer is going to cause a sway problem.

I personally do not see the issue with the gvwr. BUT, being as his RA is known for being the weak link, being 50 over is an issue, or will be a break down issue. As noted, a RA swap to a larger capacity diff would be a smart move, along with a heavier spring pack. Not sure I agree with the trans swap, as a 4l60 if that is what he has, is actually a better geared trans for towing than the 4l80e! Altho a slight build up of internals might be a good move.

Then going to a different tire, or one that is rated for more payload would also be a smart move.

Ive towed many many miles over the gvwr, but under axel wts with no issues to some, depending upon the rig, weak link etc. Usually a break down is the issue. Not handling or some other issue.

Marty

It isn't being over GVWR, it is about being over the Rear GAWR!
I have stated many times I tow over GVWR, but well within axle ratings.
Those that suggest new axle and springs, why bother, just get a bigger Burb!

Your TOTAL Axle rating is ONLY 7,450# you are at 7,300# was that before after lunch?
I have 2,484# between my GVWR and total axle rating!

MVH1 wrote:
Man you guys are extreme! If I read his post correctly he is 100lbs over his GVWR and 50lbs over his Rear GAWR. I don't think distributing 100lbs from the front of the trailer is going to cause a sway problem.

I personally do not see the issue with the gvwr. BUT, being as his RA is known for being the weak link, being 50 over is an issue, or will be a break down issue. As noted, a RA swap to a larger capacity diff would be a smart move, along with a heavier spring pack. Not sure I agree with the trans swap, as a 4l60 if that is what he has, is actually a better geared trans for towing than the 4l80e! Altho a slight build up of internals might be a good move.

Then going to a different tire, or one that is rated for more payload would also be a smart move.

Ive towed many many miles over the gvwr, but under axel wts with no issues to some, depending upon the rig, weak link etc. Usually a break down is the issue. Not handling or some other issue.

Marty

Man you guys are extreme! If I read his post correctly he is 100lbs over his GVWR and 50lbs over his Rear GAWR. I don't think distributing 100lbs from the front of the trailer is going to cause a sway problem.