Insulating the Belly of my TT

Jframpey wrote:
Larry, I must say after viewing your work I am inspired... I think I am going to follow your lead. Wish me luck. The angle iron around the croplast, the clamps, and the rigid insulation inside makes it very tidy, and I can get inside if needed.

I've ordered a tank shutoff valve with remote cable... Almost bought the electric one, but decided KISS! That will solve the drain line outside of the heated space issue. I'll put 1" of rigid insulation (styrofoam). Because I have several sheets already, and seal the edges with spray foam. Then, a very neat coroplast application. I'll try to take some photos.

Joe

Good luck with your project and one quirk that I'm not sure I covered really well in that album was for the section over the axles I had to make that section into two pieces since with the angle iron you couldn't slide that piece in. IIRC the section over the axles is in two pieces one is about 12" long and the other 36". They are attached together with like 3 pieces of thin vinyl board again using nylon bolts and nuts. This thin vinyl board is like 12" wide and overlaps each coroplast section by 6". Thus by removing the bolts from this overlapping thin vinyl board from one side you split the axle section in 2 pieces slide each in over the axles from each side and them finish securing them together. My axles are the torsion type so actual more traditional spring type axles might need some tweaking in how to make the coroplast underbelly section that goes over the axles removable like the other coroplast underbelly sections. This allows each axle section with the angle iron on one side to be slid in over the axles and they secured together to make one solid piece with angle iron on each end for attaching that section to the other ones going forward and back along the frame of the trailer. To remove this one section is still a PAIN, but having to actually remove it is probably never going to be required since dropping the next sections out gives you a lot of access to the area above the axles anyway.

Also don't skip out on the thickness of the aluminum angle iron and I don't remember if I specified in that album the thickness I used, but again IIRC it wasn't the thinnest nor the thickest that Lowes/HD normally carried. Using the thickest would be best, but that as I remember really got $$$$. I paid as I remember around $10 or so for each length of angle iron.

One hint is make sure if you use the beam clamps like I did is to make a few extra as spares. I recently lost one, probably from it loosening because of the vinyl pieces I used under the bolts to protect the frame. This was more my fault since I hadn't inspected and checked everything for like 5 years since installing the clamps and not will inspect like every couple of years to make sure everthing is still tight and secured well.

Larry