Forum Discussion
- DutchmenSportExplorerYou have buy the plastic wedges and then add your own lumber. I already have the lumber and chocks, (lots of lumber). I see no advantage to these over anything else that already exists. If you have your own lumber already, you already know you don't need these plastic wedges. All you have to do is taper the edge of the lumber and you've got the same thing.
Nay, I pass on this one. - jfkmkExplorer
DutchmenSport wrote:
You have buy the plastic wedges and then add your own lumber. I already have the lumber and chocks, (lots of lumber). I see no advantage to these over anything else that already exists. If you have your own lumber already, you already know you don't need these plastic wedges. All you have to do is taper the edge of the lumber and you've got the same thing.
Nay, I pass on this one.
Yeah, but did you pay $64 to taper the wood??
Agree, I got an alert from e-trailer regarding these and saw no real advantage. - DutchmenSportExplorer
jfkmk wrote:
DutchmenSport wrote:
You have buy the plastic wedges and then add your own lumber. I already have the lumber and chocks, (lots of lumber). I see no advantage to these over anything else that already exists. If you have your own lumber already, you already know you don't need these plastic wedges. All you have to do is taper the edge of the lumber and you've got the same thing.
Nay, I pass on this one.
Yeah, but did you pay $64 to taper the wood??
Agree, I got an alert from e-trailer regarding these and saw no real advantage.
$64 for the Skill saw that did the taper! :B - Sandia_ManExplorer IIPretty much use the same system but old-style with boards I tapered and a level I set center of rig from door way access. Nothing wrong with purchasing it if you like electronic gizmos (which I do), but I'll keep using what I have as it takes just a few minutes to level and unhitch as it is, can't see where this system would save me any significant time worthy of the investment.
- parker_roweExplorer
SoundGuy wrote:
Dave5143 wrote:
This is kinda neat looking idea. Anybody here use these for side to side leveling of their trailer?
Sorry, but as illustrated in that link I'd never elevate just one low side tire on a dual axle trailer. Thumbs down from me. :(
Why not? Just curious. You can jack up one axle for service...or say drive on side of the camper over a bump and the axles articulate separately.
I've been leveling using just one wheel driven onto staggered 2x6's for about 3 years now and haven't noticed any issues. Doesn't mean it doesn't cause any though. - SoundGuyExplorer
SoundGuy wrote:
Sorry, but as illustrated in that link I'd never elevate just one low side tire on a dual axle trailer. Thumbs down from me. :(parker.rowe wrote:
Why not? Just curious.
One tire, axle, and suspension components are subjected to far more stress than the other tire, axle, and suspension components on the same side of the trailer, and for days at a time while you're camping. Why, when there's no need? :R
Interestingly, later that same link shows both tires properly elevated.
I agree with others in that I see no advantage whatsoever to this Hopkins kit when simply beveling the edges of the 2x achieves exactly the same thing. :S - goducks10ExplorerWaste of money IMO.
- CapnCampnExplorer IIIFrequently I'll put the two tires on different height blocks (2x lumber, so 1 1/2 inches difference between tires). Adding a block to 1 tire gives about half the height bump as both tires, so it's good for fine tuning the leveling.
I don't feel that I'm causing any harm.
Back to the OP's point, 64 bucks seems a little steep for a few pieces of plastic in my opinion, but hey, Hopkins gotta make some money too. :)
Camp on!
CC - Dave5143ExplorerI guess I liked the way each level wedged into the previous lower level thus keeping the different boards from shifting around. Could do the same thing using 16' of 2x8 lumber and carriage bolts though. Don't really need the fancy electronic leveling device.
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