Forum Discussion

myredracer's avatar
myredracer
Explorer II
Nov 03, 2013

Just what is included in a factory dry weight number?

We all know that factory dry weights (GVW or tongue) are pie-in-the-sky numbers that go up when you get your unit. But just what exactly is and isn't included in the factory dry weight assigned by a factory? I've read various opinions.

It seems typical that factory options are not included and I can see why, to a point at least. But when options are added, how do they come up with weights for various options? For example, if you buy a power awning, do they take the difference in weight between a manual and power one? What about an upgrade to theater seating? Would they allow for the difference in weight?

Do they use a bare bones, stripped down unit as a base line for a dry weight?? If so, do they actually add the weight of any items onto this? I've read some say that some standard things that you would assume are included in a base dry weight aren't, like say a microwave. Is this correct and what else would they do this with? Sofa? Fridge?

I know that things installed by the dealer like propane tanks, batteries and spare tire aren't included, but why don't they say this on their websites and tell you what to expect for the additional weight?

It seems like the way dry weights are assigned by a factory are done differently by different manufacturers. Would this be correct? I've read some say that the UVW (dry weight) that is on a label affixed to each unit is very close to the actual weight as measured at a scale. Are some manufacturers more truthful on this than others? The actual weight of our TT is waaay off the factory UVW. I'd have to go find the numbers to verify, but it's something like nearly 1,000 lbs off.

I seem to recall reading that there is supposed to be new legal requirements to give a correct dry weight number for each unit as built. Is this right? It isn't happening. It seems like manufacturers are getting away with murder and they use the lowest dry weight they can for marketing purposes.

48 Replies

  • The answer is: "Nobody knows". So called "Dry" weights are at best a joke and mostly useless - except to salesmen who LOVE to quote them. :S There is little if any consistency from one manufacturer to the next as to what is included in their published "Dry weight". Some count AC, awnings, upgraded appliances and some do not, you never really know just how they reached that number.

    For a really belly laugh look at the "Dry Tongue Weights". Again no industry standards as to what constitutes a proper (safe), tongue weight. Some will compute based upon 10% or less of an already ridiculously low dry weigh when 13% is considered by most to be about right.

    IMHO: Anyone who quotes you dry weights of any kind is NOT your friend. Subtract the CCC from GVWR and you will be close to the trailers actual dry weight but remember that no one tows an empty trailer and most folks load far more weight than they think. A trip to the scales, which of course only comes after you buy, will confirm just where you stand but on any trailer between 20' to 30' most folks can expect to load at least 1000# to 1500# depending on how and where you travel.

    Don't forget to include the weight of your tanks. Lots of us travel with less than full fresh tanks and we usually are headed out with empty grey and black but.... You can easily find yourself with full grey and black when it is time to head home if the dump station is out of order or the line necessitates more of a wait then you choose to deal with.

    Never buy any rig that does not have substantial CCC, you will need it and any well built rig will have it. I have yet to ever hear of someone who weighed their rig and found it was less than they thought. :B
  • Brochure dry weight is an advertising number and related little to your rv. REAL dry weight is the rv as it left the factory. Nothing in any storage or holding tank, no personal gear of any kind. Usually referred to as shipping weight and if listed by factory is usually only found on a paper notice often attached to kitchen cabinet, inside of a door. Many manufactures do not provide this useful bit of information. When they do it is very helpful in finding your true ccc (again, brochure weights are useless )
  • Supposedly the stickers on the interior/exterior of an RV indicate dry weight and available CCC but how accurate they are and which manufacturers make it a priority to give exact weights is difficult to state. My current rig is 6 years old and was much heavier than brochure and a bit heavier than sticker weights but not enough to have much effect on the minimum CCC I required. Both dry weight and GVWR are important numbers for different reasons, weighing a rig loaded or unloaded is the only accurate way to determine where an RV sits in relation to these manufacturer stated weights. Don't know if there is a mandate or soon to be imposed mandate to accurately weigh each RV as it leaves the assembly line.
  • Knowning the dry weight is very important when buying a new RV. If you don't know that number, how will you determine the actual carrying capacity of that rig? Some TT have a real close weight between the actual dry weight and the GVW. By the time you add the LP, and full fresh water you don't have much capacity left for your items. It is great to have over 4,000# capacity over the dry weight, but that is the exception for most rigs. The numbers between the dry weight and the gross weight are very close on many rigs.
  • I think the catalog listing can be way off, but my understanding is each unit is now weighed and a label made up with the weight "as equipped" from the factory. When shopping around through the dealers lot I noticed that identical units had slightly different numbers, so I do believe they are weighed individually.
    The factory does not mount the battery or fill the propane cans, so depending on the specifics of those items, you can add 100 pounds or so right there on the a-frame (tongue weight).
    The key to that dry weight, as far as I have learned, is in what options where assembled at the factory. If the dealer adds slide toppers or awnings or whatever else you could think of, then the dry weight sitting there on the dealers lot will be different.
    Obviously that factory dry weight number means very little in terms of the reality of using the unit, either factoring in dealer add-on or your own gear.
    I was told by a few RV friends and, even the salesmen we talked to, to count on adding 800-1000 pounds of stuff for just the 2 of us and be aware of how you load that stuff in the TT so as not to add too much in the front (excess tongue weight).
    We got about 1700 CCC, so I think we will be fine.
  • Factory dry weights should be quite accurate. Many are weighed on a scale.

    It is the catalogue dry weights that can be very inaccurate as they will not include the options. And some manufacturers are definitely worse than others as some have all the options "included" and others do not. For example my Trailmanor Elkmont's catalogue dry weight did not include "options" that were actually required!

    So I always check the yellow sticker on the lot to get the factory payload (GVWR minus Dry Weight).

    One thing I noticed recently is that the double pane thermal window option always adds hundreds of pounds to a trailer's dry weight. So if you want this option, make sure the catalogue says you have a lot of payload.

    The catalogue payload of our new trailer is 1850#, but its factory payload on the yellow sticker is only 1181#, primarily because of the thermal windows. Typically, when I asked the salesman over the phone what the payload of the trailer was he just quoted the 1850# number without even looking at the actual trailer.
  • On my trailer the only option added was a spre tire! So the only additional weight will be LP and batt. My trailer has a GVWR of 11,200 lbs, a dry weight of 7100lbs which gives me a 4100lb CCC! The GVWR is useless to me as i will never use the whole 4k lb ccc. And yes i weighed it i'm at 9200 lbs ready for a trip.

    Btw. On my TT things like micro, awning, stove, even heated mattress and ceiling fan are standard.
  • I've never been concerned about the dry weight. I only look at GVWR on the sticker to make sure it's under my towing weight limit. Then I take unit to scale and find out where I'm starting from.

    When loaded for 1st trip out, I run truck and trailer over the scale to find all my weights. I've never been up against max limits. I prefer having having a cushion for better towing performance from my truck.

    When I( purchased my last 5vr, the weights listed on sticker in cabinet were very close to scale weights, even showing weights for full water tank and propane tanks.