Keeping Cooler During Transit

rodwha wrote:
... and I've downloaded an app that allows you to work most anything in the RV so I can slide out the living area and turn on the A/C once I've parked it without having to go in a sweltering sauna.

What gadgetry needs installed in the RV in order to accept the signal given off by the app in your phone when to command an appliance to turn on?

Simply "downloading an app" isn't going to make it happen until there's something else in the RV to communicate the signal to the appliance and accept the signal sent from your phone.

I did check with them as the Passports do have a second A/C option, but this one in particular is too short and does not have that option. It is ducted.

rodwha wrote:

I can get a 15k BTU A/C in place of the 13.5k, which ill want to do, and I've downloaded an app that allows you to work most anything in the RV so I can slide out the living area and turn on the A/C once I've parked it without having to go in a sweltering sauna.

Replacing the 13.5k with a 15k may not get you the desired performance that you're looking for. It's only has 10 percent more capacity. Sometimes the upgrade is enough for people, sometimes people can't tell the difference.

A 2nd AC may be an option and can give a quicker cooldown. Check with the manufacturer to see if one of the vents was framed to accept a second AC. If it's a 50 amp trailer then the location maybe pre-wired or you can wire it into the existing electrical system. If it's 30 amp then you can power it from a separate power cord.

Covered roof vents are the way to go. I haven't closed my roof vents in 2 years since i installed my maxairs. Never travel with a window open. I wont tell you how I know this,but lets just say, I now know how to re-string those pull down shades that come with most units. ;-/

A filter can be made for the vent if needed. I'll likey do without the first time just to see as we'd certainly be unhappy if it smelled like diesel fumes. I even have a charcoal filter I could hack up.

I can get a 15k BTU A/C in place of the 13.5k, which ill want to do, and I've downloaded an app that allows you to work most anything in the RV so I can slide out the living area and turn on the A/C once I've parked it without having to go in a sweltering sauna.

I make sure my trailer is closed up tight to keep dust from entering. When I get to the park office I open a window an turn on the Fantastic Fan to pull the hot air out. By the time I'm set up and plugged in and turn on the A/C it's got rid of a lot of the heat.

I had forgotten about that stuff. Thanks!

Reflectix Insulation. Buy a roll at Lowe's, Home Depot, etc. Cut to fit windows. We don't need tape, ours stay put under the blinds, but I can't promise that you won't. We're from Florida & this stuff is incredible.

Great question, I struggle keeping mine cool on the road. I don't have the vent covers, but I've thought about adding on, and a fantastic fan, and running them on the highway.

It's funny the guys saying they cool off in 30 min, they must either have much bigger A/C's, or live in cooler climates. In the south, it takes me until almost sun up sometimes.

These windows come with UV protection and are tinted. I have read of what seems a great idea to insulate the windows by cutting bubble wrap to fit them. I am a hoarder of bubble wrap as I send out cigars and beer at times, and my beer brewing stuff comes with large sheets of it.

Down here we always crack the windows and open the sunroof/moonroof on the truck because it gets so hot so quickly and takes too long to cool down to even a more comfortable level, which is why I figured the roof vents were a good idea to have open.