Kill switch for Cummins

Truck thieves in my area (Silicone Valley) use the ODB ports to figure out what is wrong and then bypass. Others who don't know this HOW2, destroy the vehicle trying old-fashioned theft metrics

Neighbor had his 2007 Duramx's steering column destroyed TWICE by amateur thieves.

Other neighbor had his 350HD's (forget...maybe a 450HD) door lock & dash torn up by amateur thieves (this guy is an electrician and had kill switches...yes more than one...they saved his vehicle from being stolen, but the damage was significant). His gigantic Lance was in bed at that time.

The why am noodling a highly visible tire/wheel boot...as are they now

bucky wrote:
As long as snatch trucks and flatbeds exist the threat still exists. All we can do is minimize the chances.

I wonder if it would be a good idea to put a extra line on the family plan, hide a phone (hooked to charger) in your ride. Then could use find your family app to tell cops where it is at.
Of course, that assumes cops would act.

As long as snatch trucks and flatbeds exist the threat still exists. All we can do is minimize the chances.

On my previous '01 2500 Dodge/Cummins the truck dealer added wiring that required I turn the cruse control on and hold in on the cruse button while starting. If that scenario wasn't followed no juice to the starter and the trucks horn would honk.
Thieves don't like a horn blowing when their stealing a vehicle.

OP here. I checked with my insurance company. I can itemize my add-ons so I can be reimbursed for a loss. Of course, an additional premium is involved. I'll put together the list and see what it costs.

I do have a chipped key and will install a kill switch on the clutch lockout line. Then, be vigilant. Maybe, with the high price of diesel, a thief won't want the thing.

Ravelco.com

thomasmnile wrote:

schlep1967 wrote:
Talk to your insurance agent about "Full Replacement Value". You can get that on your policy and it shouldn't cost much more.

Unlikely on a 2004 vehicle. GEICO offers a full replacement cost rider for vehicles that are 0-5 years old.

Yeah, that doesn't exist unless you get an appraised value type policy for a classic vehicle, afaik. Not applicable to daily drivers.

Whole lot of speculation in this thread about insurance.
Also, OP is looking for advice on a kill switch, which has been given and not too difficult or expensive.
Other option, security system.
None of these will likely stop a pro from getting it.

But "not getting what it's worth from insurance" is an age old battle.
It's you vs a for profit corporation.
That said, one's idea of what it's "worth" has to be within reason of what the market value is. We're not talking rare antique artifacts here. Just everyday run of the mill vehicles.
One has some risk that they will lose "modifications" if not able to retrieve them (like in the case of a theft), but by the same token, market value is market value.
How much do you want to pay to insure something that is worth more "to you" (insert emotional response here) than to the general public.
If the market demands $20k for a comparable truck, you'll get that much or close to it, if you stick to your guns.

And if you're THAT worried about it getting stolen, do something about it. (Like the OP is planning to do)

I'm glad and fortunate that the theft of any single vehicle or toy wouldn't place us in a financial bind, even if completely uninsured. And I understand those who have more of their eggs in baskets that are easily (relatively) stolen. But best you can do is try to make it less easy to steal or less attractive to steal and go on about your life!

schlep1967 wrote:
Talk to your insurance agent about "Full Replacement Value". You can get that on your policy and it shouldn't cost much more.

Unlikely on a 2004 vehicle. GEICO offers a full replacement cost rider for vehicles that are 0-5 years old.

I once helped a friend theft proof his Jeep before going to Mexico. We put a kill switch in the wire to the fuel pump. We also put a relay in the start wire going to the starter solenoid. The relay was powered by the headlights high beam. So, he had to turn the high beams on and flip the kill switch to start it.

For a long time I had a bunch of tools, compressors, welders on a old Ford truck. I had a relay in the starter cable controlled by a magnetic switch on dash. If a magnetic clip was not in the right place on the dash, starter would not run, and ignition would not get power.