K&N Air Filter?

Gdetrailer wrote:

Fast0ne wrote:
I always like to read reviews on air intakes by company's and all the bad mouthing that takes place and how they don't work.

First off I have had K&N filters on 4 different cars with no motor issues caused by the filter.

When you install any type of air intake they tell you to disconnect the battery. Once you have completed the install reconnect the battery.

Now your vehicle will not respond right away from installing a air intake. Yes it may sound cool. But the computer in your car can take up to a week to recalibrate all the fuel trims and throttle body positions. So when these company's do these wonderful test they are not letting the computer get used to the new set up. This is why the see minimal gains.


As far as dirt I always check my intake tube and throttle body and they are very clean vs what the filter looks like. So no additional dirt is passing the filter. And if you don't like to oil a filter go buy a AEM dry flow filter. AEM is also owned by K&N. And if you are really worried about dirt then get the addition pre filter screen.

I have to chuckle at every post pro K&N post defending that expensive do nothing add on..

First of all ANY non electrical item REQUIRING one to disconnect the battery before replacing on wreaks of GARBAGE.

Second, I myself "bought" into the BS of K&N improving mileage and power.

Back in the '90s bought on for a '93 Cougar, making sure I did not change my driving "habits" I found NO INCREASED mileage. Strike ONE

I did a A-B 1/4 mile speed test.. I found ZERO, ZILCH, NADA, NOTHING different in "performance" in the quarter mile. STRIKE TWO

After 20K miles with the K&N installed the engine started to randomly stall and hard starting and finally CEL light.. STRIKE THREE

Diagnosis.. The oil which is what captures the dirt had managed to create a film buildup on the MAF sensor which in turn built up a layer of oily crud on the sensor..

Fortunately I found on the Internet how to clean the MAF and SAVED me from paying $250 for the MAF plus $150 for labor at my dealer..

Keep in mind I NEVER cleaned and reoiled that filter, that was ALL from the K&N factory.

I threw out that filter and reinstalled the OEM PAPER filter and have NEVER looked back.

So, I spent $45 on the filter, $20 on a K&N recharge kit (never even used it) so I spent $65 on a "lifetime filter" which if I wasn't handy with vehicles would have cost me an additional $400 in dealer repairs.

As far as saving money by not replacing paper filters, that too is a bogus "feature". Stock OEM paper filters are typically good for 30,000 miles and for that Cougar the replacement OEM filter cost me $11 at Walmart.

For the $65 K&N filter in that Cougar just to break even you would have to drive 180,000 miles!

Granted some filters are more expensive but even if your OEM filter cost $30 your break even point is north of 70,000 miles.

I was once bitten, shame on you (K&N), twice bitten, shame on me (never happen again to me).

Believing aftermarket manufacturers hype is foolish..

If the K&N style filter was so good, don't you think the vehicle manufacturers would be using them right off the assembly line? It would be a cheap way for the vehicle manufacturers to increase mileage for almost nothing.. They DON'T because there IS NO GAINS to be had..

Yeah, I know, dirt bikers use them.. Well dirt biking is a different story, they tear down engines often, the dirt they encounter would clog a paper filter during the races and they would be replacing the paper filter every race..

Even small engine manufacturers ABANDONED oiled filters back in the '60s when paper filters improved..

So because you say you did not oil the filter. As I have seen k&n filters come not oiled and the ones that come pre oiled would not have enough to get oil on the maf.

And because your butt dyno did not notice a increase then this is fault of the filter. Go to a dyno and start doing pulls.

And you owned a 93 cougar that made no power to start with you thought a filter would give you a 50hp gain. And the issues you had were because you did not disconnect the battery.

Also you have no idea how a cars computer works or functions to how the computer needs to be cleared to relearn the new air flow coming in. This is why most ppl that skip this step get a lean code because there is more air entering the motor.

But you keep hating on after market filters that do work. And if you would like to go to the dyno I will meet you there and we can do some dyno runs so maybe you will see that you will make power.